Cam covers, AFCO, KB 2.2, 03 Cobra Installation Pictures - Some assembly req.!

[Sonic605hp]

That engine bay is gorgeously done.

 

[sonicmach1]

That engine bay is gorgeously done.

Thanks! Things have come together nicely over time. I am pleased with its looks too.

 

[sonicmach1]

Using the Ford service tool is an easy and proper way to remove a stud. I had all five out in about 4 minutes.

Here is a short video of the process:

[youtube_browser]Rb2p4b_d-ZU&ap=%2526fmt%3D22[/youtube_browser]

I need to ream the holes to 39/64" and will insert the new studs shortly.

 

[sonicmach1]

Still working on installing the new studs for this portion of the project...

Here are the special alignment tools machined for the reamer aligning to the hub and also the alignment tool for the countersink bit for the spacers. I should be good to go now - getting the studs installed.

The block of steel has a hole that is reamed to guide the reamer and keep it perpendicular to the hub face. I will clamp the block to the hub and use the tapered alignment pin to assist in centering it. The shank on the reamer was stepped down to allow me to use it is a 1/2" chuck drill.

Spacer Alignment Tool for the Drill Press - Countersink Bit
I need to countersink and widen the stud holes in the spacer to allow the stud taper to fit in the recess. I will chuck this bit in my drill press, align it to the hole, raise the chuck up, insert my countersink bit and then drill. For this kit, the spacer is underneath the rotor.

 

[Satyr]

What do you suggest is the best way for normal folk to remove the stock studs? Lots of people have used air hammers, and when I did this on my SRT-4, I used a hammer to get them out myself. I don't particularly want to fork out the dime for a tool that I will only sue once.

 

[sonicmach1]

What do you suggest is the best way for normal folk to remove the stock studs? Lots of people have used air hammers, and when I did this on my SRT-4, I used a hammer to get them out myself. I don't particularly want to fork out the dime for a tool that I will only sue once.

Some have had luck using a regular heavy duty type c-clamps in lieu of the Ford service tool. I kept bending any c-clamp I could buy locally. I was going to weld on some thicker steel to my c-clamps as another possibility. I really did not want to impact the bearing with an air hammer so I found the service tool. $140 used service tool is cheap compared to having to tear it all down to replace a wheel bearing.

FYI, Ford has a bearing design test that simulates rail car impacts - the clickity-clack of the rails on shipping trains can damage the bearings when they really tie down the cars!

Good luck!

 

[computer_nerd]

holy bejeebus that an amazing car! where did you get the cobra front grill emblem?

 

[tedness]

so jealous of your setup. admittedly more-so of your brake setup than anything.

 

[01trublue cobra]

Powder Coating the timing cover black would have been sick! But it is still the best enginebay I have seen!!

 

[sonicmach1]

holy bejeebus that an amazing car! where did you get the cobra front grill emblem?

Sorry, just saw this thread updated.

Thanks - it is my pride and joy!

The "3D emblem" came from "Millenium...something" company that is now out of business. It is a solid cast piece.

I waivered replacing it, but it is unique and usually spurs a question at a car show. Thanks.

 

[sonicmach1]

so jealous of your setup. admittedly more-so of your brake setup than anything.

Ha - thanks! The brakes are awesome IMHO. What a difference over the stock ones for sure.

I never did get to complete the rear kit yet. It was mostly for the project and aesthetics.

 

[sonicmach1]

Powder Coating the timing cover black would have been sick! But it is still the best enginebay I have seen!!

Yep, good point. It did cross my mind to PC it when I had it all disassembled early on in the project, but I was a bit tired of removing stuff and did not want to introduce an unnecessary leak, etc. If I ever go to a different motor - more cubes, Aluminator, etc. it will be done!

Thanks!

 

[50 Deep]

Nice to see someone with similar tastes. I have the Aluminator/2.9 setup

Nice job!!

 

[sonicmach1]

Thanks - our themes are similar. Your 2.9 does look a lot bigger than the 2.2 KB! Good job as well.

 

[sonicmach1]

Update May 2012...

I had my car up to recalibrate the airfuel meter and my OCD got the best of me. I washed and semi-detailed the underside and waxed theblack painted parts. It still looks pretty good underneath for a 2003 (never in rain for 9 years).

Before

During

After

 

[sonicmach1]

I am running out of OCD projects on my Cobra! Here I took apart the hood latch, degreased it, primed and painted it. It looks much better.

Before - Poor cell phone pic

After

 

[sonicmach1]

I fixed the small weld rust areas on my subframe crossmember. I wire brushed it clean then repainted. Nothing too fancy, but a decent coat of anti-rust paint for protection. I used a professional Rustoleum Bright Red - Hammered Finish. I think is is a good redfire-type match.

 

[sonicmach1]

I then installed a Maximum Motorsports 4 point subframe connector.

Comparison

As I did with the rest of the crossmember when I corrected the bit of surface weld rust, I touched up the mounting hole area for the crossmember bar. I also cleaned and painted the front bolts

Looks nice installed. I also polished the inspection cover while I was there.

 

[sonicmach1]

A better picture of the polished driveshaft work - touched-up and Opti Sealed it.

 

[Bruha]

Nice job Bro. Let me know what you think of the four point cross member. I believe I feel a difference with mine over my other cobras.