Carbinite pulley on a DD

[lshin037]

Plugs replaced. They didn't look bad. I did some normal driving logs and it seems that the knocks are coming when shifting or when the BOV discharges. I just happen to glance over at the tablet and saw spikes when shifting. It's the JPC Tial Q kit and it's loud. Wonder if that's what's causing false knocks. Anyone have similar experience?

 

[lshin037]

Lund asked for a WOT pull in any gear from 2k-7k. After looking at the log, he said it's good to go.

 

[92fiveohfox]

Lund asked for a WOT pull in any gear from 2k-7k. After looking at the log, he said it's good to go.

Nice man, enjoy it. Any plans on going to the track?

 

[lshin037]

Nice man, enjoy it. Any plans on going to the track?

Thanks.
No plans for going to the track. It's a bit far but most importantly, I don't have any friends that are into modding/racing cars so I don't have anyone to "show me the ropes".

 

[RusWolf]

any updates on this? how is the belt doing?

 

[lshin037]

any updates on this? how is the belt doing?

Belt's still holding up. The dust has minimized quite a bit. It's only been 2 months and about 2500 miles so too early to say it's a complete success

 

[RusWolf]

well not bad overall i think. because some vendors made it sound like you would have to change it every 2 weeks,.

 

[lshin037]

well not bad overall i think. because some vendors made it sound like you would have to change it every 2 weeks,.

Carbinite pulleys are mainly used in competition where they're using rougher texture and pushing a lot more boost. They probably HAVE to change it out very often. This pulley is not as rough (100 or 80 grit, I think) and I'm not pushing my motor that much compared to those guys. I think that's what they're referring to.

 

[beefcake]

normal driving isn't going to kill the belt, 1/4 mile or wot hits will kill the belt

 

[lshin037]

normal driving isn't going to kill the belt, 1/4 mile or wot hits will kill the belt

I've been driving my car harder lately for datalogging after I removed the WG, relocated the IAT sensor, and installed a water meth system. And few "runs" with drivers thinking its a stock GT. Belt is still good but, like I said, still too early to consider it a success. If the belt holds up to around 10k, I'll consider it a success and keep it

 

[beefcake]

the only way to know for sure, would be to hit the track, make a couple hits on the belt on it now

then throw a fresh on and make 2 hits, thats really the only way to know

but i like what your doing

 

[mhyjek]

I've been driving my car harder lately for datalogging after I removed the WG, relocated the IAT sensor, and installed a water meth system. And few "runs" with drivers thinking its a stock GT. Belt is still good but, like I said, still too early to consider it a success. If the belt holds up to around 10k, I'll consider it a success and keep it

Did Lund open the knock sensors for you because of IAT relocation and meth; that made a difference for me at the track like 3mph which is about 75 whp.

 

[lshin037]

Did Lund open the knock sensors for you because of IAT relocation and meth; that made a difference for me at the track like 3mph which is about 75 whp.

Haven't done that. I'll ask about it now.

 

[lshin037]

Greg from Lund says that my current tune is already setup to add. He just wants to see a WOT log

 

[mhyjek]

Haven't done that. I'll ask about it now.

I had very similar setup Jon Jr. did mine you can reference my screen name he has the file and logs which I did a lot off but the tune was perfect!!

 

[lshin037]

Got a chance to wire in my MAP sensor (used with my Aeroforce gauge) by tapping the 5v signal line into the SCT tuner via firewire cable. Below is a datalog. Graph only shows RPM vs MAP voltage. Peak was 11psi (4.33v) but that was going to 6800 rpm. Seems linear to me except for the erratic voltage readings. Are MAP voltage readings supposed to be like that? Any sign of slippage?

 

[lshin037]

So I have put about 10K miles on the belt. Belt has been chirping for a few weeks and it was moving side to side. I replaced it to see what it looks like. As you can see in the pictures below, it was worn to the point that it was showing the threads. It did last 10K but changing the belt is a pita. Some have said it takes them 30 minutes. I've replaced the belt about 4-5 times and it doesn't get easier for me.

Threads showing


Here's a lightly used belt for reference

I filed the pulley to get it a little less rough and installed a fresh belt. We'll see how this goes

 

[ford20]

On a DD you're probably talking about a belt a month honestly. Carbintied pulleys are like sand paper and can burn up belts in 8-12 passes. Street miles will burn them up pretty quickly too.

Going with something larger like a 3.6 pulley and a OD lower will mean you may not have to swap belts for a year or two.

I have a feeling that this is the way to go instead of filing down the pulley.

 

[justinsstang]

I was considering doing a 3.15 carbinite pulley from the 3.33 for a DD while leaving the 9.7psi spring in just to reach peak boost even faster. After seeing that belt after 10k miles, however, no thanks. Changing the belt is a pita with the Paxton and I don't want to have to do it any more than I have to lol.

That said, maybe leave the 3.33 on and get the 20% OD pulley? This is a DD stock bottom end car.

I've read it's not recommended to run the 3.15 (20% OD in this case) with the wastegate on stock motor but I never understood the problem with it. It's no different than a TVS on 10psi which peaks torque immediately at an even lower rpm, so whats the issue with that setup?

 

[Tx5.0]

Why not upgrade to the 8 rib?