Charge Air Temp Woes

[NotSatisfied]

Please excuse my dirty engine, car just got back from paint.

I had what I thought was a bad EWP pump as my charge temperatures were rising and rising. I swapped the pump out. I have not seen any results.

My hose goes into the bottom of the Intercooler and out the top port. Then into the passenger side Heat Exchanger and out the driver and back to the trunk. The fluid feels healthy going in but not as strong coming out.

Heat exchanger is a new GordsFord. Intercooler is a clean and used replacement.

Max Coolant temps were 215 and 168 for charge air.

What’s going on?

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[cobracide]

170* Riesche Thermostat
Larger Heat Exchanger
Open hood vents

I'll run 185* coolant and a 125-130* Charge without getting on it. A run will get into the low 140s charge temp when it's in the low to mid 90s.
YMMV

Eatons are only good for one run before a cool down.

 

[NotSatisfied]

170* Riesche Thermostat
Larger Heat Exchanger
Open hood vents

I'll run 185* coolant and a 125-130* Charge without getting on it. A run will get into the low 140s charge temp when it's in the low to mid 90s.
YMMV

Eatons are only good for one run before a cool down.

I’m running a 2.9 Whipple, I have track speck hood vents.

What is YMMV?

I have no kinks. I’m thinking the IC is clogged. Is there a way to run radiator flush etc?


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[03cobra#694]

Who was that guy that had all car issues, Corbic maybe? This reminds me of him.

 

[01yellercobra]

I’m running a 2.9 Whipple, I have track speck hood vents.

What is YMMV?

I have no kinks. I’m thinking the IC is clogged. Is there a way to run radiator flush etc?


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YMMV= Your Mileage May Vary. Meaning you might not get the same results.

I recently watched a video by Macolm where he mentioned the EWP pumps are sensitive to cavitation. He was having similar problems with an EWP pump on a car he's working on. Is the pump in the trunk or in the engine compartment?

FWIW, I usually cruise 110-120 on mid 80 degree days. A hard pull will hit 145, but come down quick. Afco heat exchanger, VMP intercooler, GT500 pump, and True Forged tank.

Forgot to mention I'm running a Whipple 2.9 as well.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Did you test the pump after the swap?

I have gotten air in the system when messing with it before that literally required me to take a plunger to my intercooler tank to get it running again.

Open your tank up and jump the pump manually with a wire to check the flow, that'll tell you if you're intercooler is blocked as well.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Well. Tried flushing the intercooler. No dice.

To me..the flow is adequate, I can feel it with my hand and its moving pretty decent.

Im going off my Aeroforce Interceptor gauge. (Charge Air Temp) ..... Is the gauge or MAP sensor faulty? I feel the sensor can be easily influenced by the casing of the blower.

..Maybe there is a defect with my new heat exchanger?


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[01yellercobra]

Hard to say what adequate looks like though. Maybe get a video of the tank?

I used to run an Aeroforce gauge as well. It's not the sensor. While it might be influenced by the case, it won't be enough to cause what you're seeing. I'm guessing you still have flow issues.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Hard to say what adequate looks like though. Maybe get a video of the tank?

I used to run an Aeroforce gauge as well. It's not the sensor. While it might be influenced by the case, it won't be enough to cause what you're seeing. I'm guessing you still have flow issues.

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[olympic]

What intercooler pump are you running? I don't think the stocker is adequate for a trunk tank setup.

Also, you'll see really high charge temps when driving in stop and go traffic or low speed cruising. The engine gets heat soaked and there is very little air flowing through the blower so the charge gets hot. As soon as you open the throttle or cruise at 50+mph, charge temps will drop. Mine will hit 170F easily if I cruise around town on a hot day.

 

[NotSatisfied]

What intercooler pump are you running? I don't think the stocker is adequate for a trunk tank setup.

Also, you'll see really high charge temps when driving in stop and go traffic or low speed cruising. The engine gets heat soaked and there is very little air flowing through the blower so the charge gets hot. As soon as you open the throttle or cruise at 50+mph, charge temps will drop. Mine will hit 170F easily if I cruise around town on a hot day.

I’m getting all kinds of info, data alll over the board. Thank you. I’m running an EWP pump. If I crack throttle it only drops 5-10 degrees momentarily

 

[01yellercobra]

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To me that isn't quite enough. Granted my tank is under the hood still so I don't have the same amount of lines to deal with, but if I leave the lid off it'll splash all over.

Is one pump usually enough for a trunk tank or do you need to run a second pump inline?

 

[NotSatisfied]

Wondering if I should just ditch the ice tank and get a GT500 pump and Harpell Front Mount Tank

 

[01yellercobra]

That will depend on who you talk to and what you use the car for. I have no interest in running a trunk tank. I might if I was racing and needed the fluid volume. But for how I use my car the underhood set up is decent. I'm still planning on upgrading the intercooler manifold, but I'm tired of working on the car for now and just want to enjoy it.

 

[NotSatisfied]

That will depend on who you talk to and what you use the car for. I have no interest in running a trunk tank. I might if I was racing and needed the fluid volume. But for how I use my car the underhood set up is decent. I'm still planning on upgrading the intercooler manifold, but I'm tired of working on the car for now and just want to enjoy it.

I got a 160 thermostat for the engine (cutting down on conductive heat soak) and swapped to distilled. Hopefully it makes a difference.


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[01yellercobra]

I think 160 is getting a little cold for these engines. You need to make sure it gets out of warm up. I don't remember what that is off hand in the stock ECU. I currently have a 170 in mine. The guy that tuned my buddies car recommended 180 to him.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Maybe, my coolant got up to 212-215 yesterday in 100* traffic. Thus, heat soaking my blower, exacerbating my issue. In the wintertime, no doubt, 160 would be too low but I dont plan on driving it much in dead of winter.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Maybe, my coolant got up to 212-215 yesterday in 100* traffic. Thus, heat soaking my blower, exacerbating my issue. In the wintertime, no doubt, 160 would be too low but I dont plan on driving it much in dead of winter.

215 isn't hot per say, with the AC off factory high speed fan turn on is mid-high 220s.

I've had issues with my car running the giant air to air procharger intercooler, I didn't find any benefit in going below 180. Anything below 180 made it run too cold at highway speed on a cool day but creeping around in town with the AC on I would eventually get to the same coolant temps, just took a tad longer to get there

I think you need to keep your focus on the intercooler circuit itself.

 

[GordsFord]

Hi Travis,



The normal flow in the heat exchanger is into the drivers side (top port) and out the passenger side (bottom port) but it probably doesn’t matter. Also the flow in the tank does not look strong. Is your pump mounted in the trunk and pumping out of the tank?



What may be happening is that with the large trunk mounted tank it takes a lot longer for a complete cycle through the much larger amount of coolant in the system. This can work to advantage if you are filling the tank with ice at the track and you are pumping ice water through the intercooler then the heat exchanger and back to the tank. However if you are driving around town and you are only getting into the throttle and boost occasionally you are effectively heat soaking the coolant in the tank from the engine temperatures and it will have a large volume of hot water to flow through the system to cool it down.



The larger volume of coolant in the system basically delays the temperature rise (particularly if you add ice) but it also delays the cooling down cycle if the coolant is heated. Plus a high ambient temperature plus heat inside the trunk from the sun and the proximity of the hot exhaust system under the trunk may be working considerably against you.


Food for thought!

Thanks Travis,

Gord



Gordon Zonailo, PEng

GordsFord Performance Engineering

Tel. : 604 649 3533

Email: [email protected]

 

[NotSatisfied]

Hi Travis,



The normal flow in the heat exchanger is into the drivers side (top port) and out the passenger side (bottom port) but it probably doesn’t matter. Also the flow in the tank does not look strong. Is your pump mounted in the trunk and pumping out of the tank?



What may be happening is that with the large trunk mounted tank it takes a lot longer for a complete cycle through the much larger amount of coolant in the system. This can work to advantage if you are filling the tank with ice at the track and you are pumping ice water through the intercooler then the heat exchanger and back to the tank. However if you are driving around town and you are only getting into the throttle and boost occasionally you are effectively heat soaking the coolant in the tank from the engine temperatures and it will have a large volume of hot water to flow through the system to cool it down.



The larger volume of coolant in the system basically delays the temperature rise (particularly if you add ice) but it also delays the cooling down cycle if the coolant is heated. Plus a high ambient temperature plus heat inside the trunk from the sun and the proximity of the hot exhaust system under the trunk may be working considerably against you.


Food for thought!

Thanks Travis,

Gord



Gordon Zonailo, PEng

GordsFord Performance Engineering

Tel. : 604 649 3533

Email: [email protected]

Wondering if I should just ditch the ice tank since I don’t race the car. What’s the highest flowing bay mounted pump? GT500?


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