Cooler scoop
662... How about some pics of scoop by itself and after mounting if that's possible?
662... How about some pics of scoop by itself and after mounting if that's possible?
Cooling a Tech pack on the track
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This is pretty unlikely. Lethal's goal is to make as much power as possible so they can sell parts. Cats don't make power so it's adios, at least until the Feds start cracking down on the aftermarket. Ford doesn't have that luxury so they have to engineer workarounds.
It fits,
epper: just need to trim the plastic that covers the bottom of the car. Interestingly, the plastic seems shaped to do exactly the wrong thing for cooling the transmission, it has a shape that is identical to the scoop but inverted to force air away from the transmission to keep the flow smooth under the car. It does channel the a little air towards the cats, so some air will flow past the cats, pre-heat, then saturate the tranny - all bad.
Note: you can use the molded plastic as a template adding 1/4 inch to each side and cut uo to the three mounting screws and across. Look at the piece and you will see.
The scoop has metal sides that are in the space between the bellhousing and cats and these look like they will help reflect heat away from the tranny too.
I finished cutting mine and have the scoop sitting in place and I am out of time for a few days, but I am going to get some 3/8" spacers to lower the front a little to make the opening more pronounced, a big gulp. And I'll add some pics then.
So, it fits, look like it will help, needs minor plastic cutting and if it works, and I'll know in April, I think Ford should tool the plastic and recall the ~2.5k tech and base cars to add the scoop workaround and save the transmissions.
epper: just need to trim the plastic that covers the bottom of the car. Interestingly, the plastic seems shaped to do exactly the wrong thing for cooling the transmission, it has a shape that is identical to the scoop but inverted to force air away from the transmission to keep the flow smooth under the car. It does channel the a little air towards the cats, so some air will flow past the cats, pre-heat, then saturate the tranny - all bad.Note: you can use the molded plastic as a template adding 1/4 inch to each side and cut uo to the three mounting screws and across. Look at the piece and you will see.
The scoop has metal sides that are in the space between the bellhousing and cats and these look like they will help reflect heat away from the tranny too.
I finished cutting mine and have the scoop sitting in place and I am out of time for a few days, but I am going to get some 3/8" spacers to lower the front a little to make the opening more pronounced, a big gulp. And I'll add some pics then.
So, it fits, look like it will help, needs minor plastic cutting and if it works, and I'll know in April, I think Ford should tool the plastic and recall the ~2.5k tech and base cars to add the scoop workaround and save the transmissions.
I'm curious how many degrees of temp this reduces conditions.
Wouldn't Track Pack cars want this too? I get that they come with built in radiators for transmission and differential, however the conditions which cause heat are the same in both cars are they not?
Wouldn't Track Pack cars want this too? I get that they come with built in radiators for transmission and differential, however the conditions which cause heat are the same in both cars are they not?
Here's what I did, red is what's cut, yellow is the rest of scoop shape, blue is mount.
I agree, as designed you can see how the airflow is vectored below the tunnel and this leaves the heated air in a pocket. it is nice not to have turbulance, but in this case its needed and useful.
I agree, as designed you can see how the airflow is vectored below the tunnel and this leaves the heated air in a pocket. it is nice not to have turbulance, but in this case its needed and useful.
I just had this same conversation with Tech Support and Ford Performance. As you said, Ford is working on an add-on trans cooler, diff cooler and also an air-oil separator. The fact that they are making the trans and diff coolers standard on 2017's is disturbing as it amounts to something of and error of omission on the Base and Tech Packs. I have a Tech Pack 2016 due in April and am still wondering if I should cancel, shift the order to a Track Pack or wait for a 2017. Having said this, the tech support fellow said that most drivers of Tech Pack vehicles will not experience overheating problems as they did not buy the cars to run hard at the track on any regular basis. He said that you would have to be driving at 10/10ths for the 20 minute sessions to get the sensors to kick in. How many of us are even capable of that. Wouldn't Ford have tested the Tech Packs in spirited hot weather driving as they would with all new vehicles. Yes, that is not Track Day, but it is probably the most stressful condition to which most of us with Tech Pack cars would subject our precious rides.
so it is confirmed then, they are indeed making OEM coolers for us tech/base pack owners.
that is good news to me！
that is good news to me！
Any ETA? summer will be here soon~
No ETA available from Ford. Best case scenario for those of us with the Tech Pack cars is one in which Ford engineers the coolers with full warranty, performance to equal or exceed the existing coolers and an installed cost that stays below the 2017 model, which essentially combines the packages.
Experience of actual owners has been, you can't get through a session on a cool spring day, much less a hot summer one. Can I do a full session on a 95 degree day or not? Even if it is the one or two days a year I take the GT350 to the track. I guess he had to have some reason the B/T cars were not given the basics they need to do so and why a solution for us is not ready, but since they've changed the 2017 spec sheet, I'd say we all know how that turned out.
I like to think I'm fast, but I'd say 8/10ths would do it on cool day. I would swich to a 17. Hopefully not, but even losing several thousand since you will get that back in residual and to not have the guy in the SS ask where you went after chasing him down for 10 min is priceless.
It's not even a question.
In the long run, you are probably right. I just received notice that my car has been built and is ready to ship. Hard to resist the temptation to put fears and doubts aside so as to finally take possession after such a long long ordeal. Still, I cannot afford to take the risk becoming part of a Band-Aid fix for the coolers. It could be simple and elegant, or or could be a long story of heartache. The real error in thinking by Ford was to offer a car with nearly all of the performance capabilities as the Track Pack car and the R, but tie the hands of the owner when it comes to the kind of performance you would reasonably ask of this car. Likely to cancel tomorrow and possibly absorb the loss of a 5K down payment.
Did you see if they would just to hold the deposit and apply to a 17 allocation? Maybe not the first, but one of them...
I had a Allocation issue on a 14 GT500 at Lone Star Ford and they returned my deposit and said their owner does not allow them to keep questionable down payments.... Talk to the owner or GM if they try and screw you. Remind them they will get ADM on you're car to boot, it's not like its a pink Fiat 500 you ordered...
Also, I love my 16 tech pac, I red pin striped my white one and even enjoyed installing the bandaid, it looks cool. I hope to get a 17 or 18 R, and I love driving my car, wayyyy more than any other I've owned, so with a large down pmt on the line I bet you would enjoy the car rather than not for the next year. Resale will be pretty good since not everyone understands or maybe cares much about the issue. So, you really can't go wrong and ANY GT350 choice is not too bad a spot
Oh, and while disappointed in ford, I am not too mad at them, many times bad decisions are propagated as status quo, so glad they ate crow and fixed all the marketing issues so the car can be built correctly. A stubborn marketing type wienie trying to offer a car that bests a GT3 for under 50k, that's amazing.
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Did you see if they would just to hold the deposit and apply to a 17 allocation? Maybe not the first, but one of them...
I had a Allocation issue on a 14 GT500 at Lone Star Ford and they returned my deposit and said their owner does not allow them to keep questionable down payments.... Talk to the owner or GM if they try and screw you. Remind them they will get ADM on you're car to boot, it's not like its a pink Fiat 500 you ordered...
Also, I love my 16 tech pac, I red pin striped my white one and even enjoyed installing the bandaid, it looks cool. I hope to get a 17 or 18 R, and I love driving my car, wayyyy more than any other I've owned, so with a large down pmt on the line I bet you would enjoy the car rather than not for the next year. Resale will be pretty good since not everyone understands or maybe cares much about the issue. So, you really can't go wrong and ANY GT350 choice is not too bad a spot
Oh, and while disappointed in ford, I am not too mad at them, many times bad decisions are propagated as status quo, so glad they ate crow and fixed all the marketing issues so the car can be built correctly. A stubborn marketing type wienie trying to offer a car that bests a GT3 for under 50k, that's amazing.
Totally, it's an incredible car. Ford did something very very special with the GT350. Every year there are fewer pure driver's cars out there, but the GT350 is just that. I would not walk away from $5k over this situation with the coolers, even if I didn't know, for sure, that Ford is working on this.
But deposits are not legally enforceable, they have to give it back. If you can't persuade them to return your money, a quick letter from an attorney will sort it out.
Here is my update:
My pics are not good, but here is the scoop... and some lessons learned.
Most importantly, lift the car high enough to be comfortable under it.
I could not get the shroud off, I removed all the screws and clips it seemed would be necessary but the rivets in the front seem to need to be removed to get the black plastic shroud separated. So I lef
t it attached at the nose and I tilted it down and worked on the back end. My work was made more challenging because of this and I'd really recommend a lift.
I tilted and trimmed it as noted in earlier post with a metal blade in a jig saw. I tried heavy duty tin snips on the plastic, but it was too hard, then tried a pneumatic cutting wheel and it was too soft, so I used a short metal blade in jig saw to avoid damage to the frame and it cut pretty smooth. One handed in the tight space made it difficult…
Then the holes just line up, to bolt it on. I did a tweak here of adding a spacer nut since I wanted to drop it 3/8". I used longer bolts to open it up.
Pic: everything in place
- The blue marks mounting points, front nut with spacer highlighted
Pic: under the shroud
Nicely vectors cool air charge to the transmission while reflecting heat from the cats.
I'd put one on any variant and think SVT should update the shroud in a kit and do it right. Could use some thought to simplify oil changes. I'm gonna change the oil now too since it will be so difficult. Plus I like changing oil around 1500 miles to get rid of metal fragments from new motor anyway.
My pics are not good, but here is the scoop... and some lessons learned.
Most importantly, lift the car high enough to be comfortable under it.
I could not get the shroud off, I removed all the screws and clips it seemed would be necessary but the rivets in the front seem to need to be removed to get the black plastic shroud separated. So I lef
t it attached at the nose and I tilted it down and worked on the back end. My work was made more challenging because of this and I'd really recommend a lift.
I tilted and trimmed it as noted in earlier post with a metal blade in a jig saw. I tried heavy duty tin snips on the plastic, but it was too hard, then tried a pneumatic cutting wheel and it was too soft, so I used a short metal blade in jig saw to avoid damage to the frame and it cut pretty smooth. One handed in the tight space made it difficult…
Then the holes just line up, to bolt it on. I did a tweak here of adding a spacer nut since I wanted to drop it 3/8". I used longer bolts to open it up.
Pic: everything in place
- The blue marks mounting points, front nut with spacer highlighted
Pic: under the shroud
Nicely vectors cool air charge to the transmission while reflecting heat from the cats.
I'd put one on any variant and think SVT should update the shroud in a kit and do it right. Could use some thought to simplify oil changes. I'm gonna change the oil now too since it will be so difficult. Plus I like changing oil around 1500 miles to get rid of metal fragments from new motor anyway.
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