Driveline/ Subframe connectors/ Suspension upgrades

[Vinnie_B]

Anyone else upgraded there sub frame, chassis or suspension to there unibody Shelby GT500'S recently. What component made the most notable improvement to body flex and hard (Straight) launch? Finally got around to ordering some BMR/SAI suspension/sub frame connector/brace components. Ive heard nothing but good things about Stifflers as well (Stifflers 05-2014 Mustang FIT System) but ultimately going with BMR as that is what SAI used on the Super Snake/ Shelby 1000 builds. Im hopeful this with some rear axle/differential upgrades will help tame the SS coming out the hole and not have to worry about breaking anything. Have not decided on whether im going with a 33 spline axle/ wavetrac or detroit truetrac differential yet for the 8.8 rearend.Unfortunately strange engineering doesnt have 33 spline so probably going with Moser for my axles. Having axle tubes welded up as well or going with a new Moser M88 8.8" Built to Order Rear End Package (Moser M88 8.8" Built to Order Rear End Package - Moser Engineering) Since Watson Racing (Late Model Mustang racing parts - Expert Road & Drag Race Car Builds) will be finishing my Super Snake 1000 build we will see what there recommendations are for the rearend. K member,motor,exhaust and the rest of the driveline upgrades TBD later. Right now my main concern is getting this suspension/chassis right.

ITEMS ORDERED​

PRODUCT	SKU
Shelby Performance Parts 2012-2014 Shelby 1000 Billet Transmission Crossmember (RED)	SKU : SPP-CM-14-
2005-2014 Shelby Rear Shock Tower Brace (Silver)	Product Code: S5M-20201-U
BOB'S AUTO SPORTS 2005+ MUSTANG KR STYLE AXLE RESERVOIR​ (So residual oil from the tube pressure relief doesn't get on my new or upgraded painted rear end....lol)	BOB-AXLERESERVOIR
BMR SUSPENSION SFC011H HEAVY DUTY BOXED SUBFRAME CONNECTORS - (BLACK HAMMERTONE) (2005-2014 MUSTANG)​	BMR-SFC011H
BMR SUSPENSION DTB002H 2005-2014 MUSTANG REAR TUNNEL BRACE (BLACK HAMMERTONE)​	BMR-DTB002H
BMR Mustang Billet Lower Control Arms w/ Poly Bushings	SKU : BMR-ACA004
BMR SUSPENSION CAB005H 2005-2014 MUSTANG BOLT-IN LOWER CONTROL ARM RELOCATION BRACKETS (BLACK HAMMERTONE)​	BMR-CAB005H
BMR SUSPENSION UCM002H 2011-2014 MUSTANG UPPER CONTROL ARM MOUNT (BLACK HAMMERTONE)​	BMR-UCM002H
BMR CONTROL ARM HARDWARE KIT - UPPER REAR AXLE SIDE (2005-2014 MUSTANG) - CAH754​	BMR-CAH754
BMR SUSPENSION UTCA032 2011-2014 MUSTANG ADJUSTABLE UPPER CONTROL ARM WITH POLY BUSHING (BLACK HAMMERTONE)​	BMR-UTCA032H

 

[sonicx]

@Vinnie_B i have about 75% of that list on mine…. The subframe welds and the relocs (in my opinion) made (least felt it) from your list. The UCA will do well too, I just did it all at once and didn’t notice it but when prompted reading over old threads it seemed like a no brainer.

 

[Vinnie_B]

@Vinnie_B i have about 75% of that list on mine…. This thread comes at a good time as I’m trying to find more info about these 2005-2009 Black Powder-Coated Rear Support Bars — BUY IT NOW. granted I have a convertible Shelby but my are a bit worn :/

But to add to yours. The subframe welds and the relocs (in my opinion) made (least felt it) from your list. The UCA will do well too, I just did it all at once and didn’t notice it but when prompted reading over old threads it seemed like a no brainer.

Those rear support bars for your convertible look interesting. I know chassis flex is even more noticible in them. Let alone a shelby GT500. Did you try doing a google review search on them to see if its worth the investment. Those aint cheap!

 

[Vinnie_B]

Kenny Brown, Griggs and Cortex racing are some other quality upgrade options

Kenny Brown Performance Handling Cars

Our passion is building and driving well-balanced, exhilarating, fun-to-drive high-performance sports cars, track cars, and race cars. Our focus is delivering you a very personalized and unparalleled driving and customer experience by making your car dreams and driving ambitions a reality.

kennybrown.com

Griggs Racing

Home Page

WHAT WE DOOur focus at Griggs Racing is chassis development and creating vehicles that can outperform cars which cost ten times as much. Increase your driver confidence, performance and comfort by adding our proven, race ... Read More

www.griggsracing.com

Cortex Racing

Cortex Home | Cortex Racing

www.cortexracing.com

 

[2011 gtcs]

I have the billet Shelby1000 trans cross member, not sure if Shelby offers it anymore, but it's a nice piece

 

[Vinnie_B]

I have the billet Shelby1000 trans cross member, not sure if Shelby offers it anymore, but it's a nice piece

I really like billet one too. It was a hard decision to make on that one.Have you upgraded your rearend since your engine build was completed or is it still stock? I know your running 3.73 gears. If i remember correctly you have the Griggs suspension upgrades?

 

[sonicx]

Those rear support bars for your convertible look interesting. I know chassis flex is even more noticible in them. Let alone a shelby GT500. Did you try doing a google review search on them to see if its worth the investment. Those aint cheap!

Thanks @Vinnie_B truth me told i pre-edited my post when you were posting. Really this is about your stuff not mine. Although you’re list prompted me to think about it, wasn’t the point (thanks for being a good sport) that’s where my mind was but I didn’t think (prior to) how that came across. Thankfully it seems it went well!

The only posts / threads ive seen is the owner / maker (bud) making threads on a lot of different forums to use his product and says how’s he’s got some local ford dealership as well as car shield and handfuls of single owners to vouch for his stuff. Mine aren’t rusty but the weld seems have holes in several places so I’m just wondering?

 

[Vinnie_B]

Thanks @Vinnie_B truth me told i pre-edited my post when you were posting. Really this is about your stuff not mine. Although you’re list prompted me to think about it, wasn’t the point (thanks for being a good sport) that’s where my mind was but I didn’t think (prior to) how that came across. Thankfully it seems it went well!

The only posts / threads ive seen is the owner / maker (bud) making threads on a lot of different forums to use his product and says how’s he’s got some local ford dealership as well as car shield and handfuls of single owners to vouch for his stuff. Mine aren’t rusty but the weld seems have holes in several places so I’m just wondering?

No......actually im interested in everyone's setup and the reasoning behind there decision to install there chosen products and if they met there expectations. Im always open to ppl's opinions and learning. I dont blame you for looking at options, nothing wrong with planning ahead for better products for improvement. Rusty welds would concern me but small holes I wouldnt. Just keep an eye out for cracks in welds. Those rear support bars are critical. With that said......I believe our ambitions to improve our shelby's chassis are aligned.....

 

[sonicx]

No......actually im interested in everyone's setup and the reasoning behind there decision to install there chosen products and if they met there expectations. Im always open to ppl's opinions and learning. I dont blame you for looking at options, nothing wrong with planning ahead for better products for improvement. Rusty welds would concern me but small holes I wouldnt. Just keep an eye out for cracks in welds. Those rear support bars are critical. With that said......I believe our ambitions to improve our shelby's chassis are aligned.....

And that is what concerns me. The weld points are cracking in a couple areas… otherwise besides some surface rust (typical) my care is fairly clean on the bottom. For full disclosure of what I have…on my 09 500:

BMR adjustable panhard bar
BMR lower control arms
BMR panhard bar brace
BMR caster camber bolts
BMR lower control Relocation brackets
BMR Adjustable Upper control arms
BMR Radiator support with sway bar mount
Koni Orange Shocks/ Struts
Steeda Jacking Rails
Stock 18 with stagd Michelin PS4S
Whiteline front adjustment end links

Pretty cookie cutter. Gets the done for touring, which is all this Shelby sees anyways. I’d probably go single driveshaft as the next mod for myself.

 

[Vinnie_B]

And that is what concerns me. The weld points are cracking in a couple areas… otherwise besides some surface rust (typical) my care is fairly clean on the bottom. For full disclosure of what I have…on my 09 500:

BMR adjustable panhard bar
BMR lower control arms
BMR panhard bar brace
BMR caster camber bolts
BMR lower control Relocation brackets
BMR Adjustable Upper control arms
BMR Radiator support with sway bar mount
Koni Orange Shocks/ Struts
Steeda Jacking Rails
Stock 18 with stagd Michelin PS4S
Whiteline front adjustment end links

Pretty cookie cutter. Gets the done for touring, which is all this Shelby sees anyways.

Nice! Cookie cutter......dont think so its a convertible shelby.... BMR seems to be a favorite with mustang guys. Excellent products for sure. Thanks for sharing. Those cracks are worrisome for sure! Good luck with your search for upgrades and the replacement.

 

[sonicx]

Nice! Cookie cutter......dont think so its a convertible shelby.... BMR seems to be a favorite with mustang guys. Excellent products for sure. Thanks for sharing. Those cracks are worrisome for sure! Good luck with your search for upgrades and the replacement.

Thanks bud. Same to you. If you need some in-depth on BMR happy to go into detail. I’ve had a few more BMR on a 13 prior to this. I’m a creature of habit, not saying other companies don’t take / make great parts. I stumbled upon BMR years ago and just keep rebuying when i change Mustang out with the same parts. The biggest things a lot of people forget is to make sure you’re re greasing the nipples every other year (I drive summers only). That stuff you have posted should keep you planted although don’t sleep on updating all your suspension bushing to poly (if your stock still). Also if you’re on different spring to get some front and rear end links to boot…. Help level out the sway bar. Least in the circle I’ve spoken too seems the gt500 bar is pretty stout stock although I know a free whom have beefed it up but they’re road racing on a closed course too. Up to you, I’ve had good luck using BMR boxed LCAs don’t really see a reason to spring extra unless your pushing some Gs are going for clout

 

[Vinnie_B]

Thanks bud. Same to you. If you need some in-depth on BMR happy to go into detail. I’ve had a few more BMR on a 13 prior to this. I’m a creature of habit, not saying other companies don’t take / make great parts. I stumbled upon BMR years ago and just keep rebuying when i change Mustang out with the same parts. The biggest things a lot of people forget is to make sure you’re re greasing the nipples every other year (I drive summers only). That stuff you have posted should keep you planted although don’t sleep on updating all your suspension bushing to poly (if your stock still). Also if you’re on different spring to get some front and rear end links to boot…. Help level out the sway bar. Least in the circle I’ve spoken too seems the gt500 bar is pretty stout stock although I know a free whom have beefed it up but they’re road racing on a closed course too. Up to you, I’ve had good luck using BMR boxed LCAs don’t really see a reason to spring extra unless your pushing some Gs are going for clout

I'll definitely be taking you up on future opinion/answers to questions that shall arise. Still have all the stock bushings that will need to be upgraded as well. I have ford (Blue) svt racing springs currently. They were part of the original SS package upgrade. Gonna take a look at upgrading those when the rearend comes out. I appreciate all the wisdom and knowlege your sharing....TY!

 

[kazman]

Have you considered a rear seat delete? To me it seems to to be advantageous because of the larger distance between the bracing points. I nixed the rear strut tower brace idea for two reasons, first I'd have to lose the subwoofer in the trunk and second, the small non-triangulated distance between the shock mounting points. Juice isn't worth the squeeze.

M-6346612-B

currently 9 available at Jegs.

 

[SCGallo2]

Moser Engineering is offering 10% off for Black Friday through Monday. I pulled the trigger on a new M88 built to order unit last night featuring a 33-spline Truetrac differential w/ 3.55 gears, bolt in axles with access holes, aluminum girdle, adjustable LCA mounting points, powder coated semi-gloss black. I also purchased a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft from Lethal Performance at a 10% discount. I have also had a new Bob’s axle reservoir sitting around for years waiting on a new rearend installation.
I will be happy to upload pics and provide feedback on the M88 rearend once I get everything installed.

BMR rear suspension components with poly bushings are a worthy upgrade over stock components with rubber bushings… articulation is more smooth and precise, eliminating wheel hop. Eventually I wanted more control over rear axle location, so I went with Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable LCAs with spherical rod ends, which I am pleased with but they aren’t for everyone.

 

[Bad Company]

Kenny Brown Performance has some reputable products as well as Griggs.

Kenny Brown Performance Handling Cars

Our passion is building and driving well-balanced, exhilarating, fun-to-drive high-performance sports cars, track cars, and race cars. Our focus is delivering you a very personalized and unparalleled driving and customer experience by making your car dreams and driving ambitions a reality.

kennybrown.com

I had the Kenny Brown Racing parts on my car. The front lower control arm bushings never stopped squeaking no matter how much grease was used. The major problems with his parts are the the K-Member will bend due to hard braking at the front control arm mounting location. The square tubing he is using isn't strong enough. I had the parts on my car for a short amount of time and Kenny Brown took them back after I saw a car competing in the NASA American Iron class bend the K member. I actual reinstalled the factory K-Member and front suspension until Maximum Motorsports started selling their K-Member. In the rear I went with CorTeX Racing's Watts Link, rear LCA kit and Torque Arm in the racing versions with spherical bearings. Once Maximum Motorsports released their K-Member I went with it with Ford Performance M-5638-C polyurethane and Delrin bushings for the front lower control arms. CorTeX final released a K-Member and front LCA kit that works with struts versus their other K-Member that was designed and sold first with a SLA and coilovers shocks for the front. The car is riding on the 13 stock Bilstein struts and shocks with the Ford M-5300-L lowering springs with slightly higher spring rates than stock. I also have an Eibach adjustable front sway bar with spherical bearing adjustable links while retaining the stock rear bar and bushings

My car handles with a neutral feel versus the original factory feel of heavy understeer until you apply enough power to the rear tires to turn it into snap oversteer. The grip is extremely high with my combination and very predictable while spinning the rear tires without any crazy rear axle steering inputs caused by bushing deflection of the stock rubber bushings. The neutral grip never feels like the car is at it's limit of grip on the street no matter how hard it seems when you drive into a big curve. I've only had the rear end get loose on me once in an off camber turn with a raised hump in the middle of it that unloaded the rear suspension, as soon as I lifted off of the throttle the car stopped sliding and was easily accepting my steering inputs to go where I wanted it to go. Now my set up does transmit a high amount of NVH into the car cabin. Fortunately I'm willing to listen to it and consider it normal for the modifications done. All of it I believe is from the rear axle suspension modifications with spherical bushings. If you want something without the NVH I recommend the CorTeX Racing Street versions of what I used in my car.

 

[2011 gtcs]

I really like billet one too. It was a hard decision to make on that one.Have you upgraded your rearend since your engine build was completed or is it still stock? I know your running 3.73 gears. If i remember correctly you have the Griggs suspension upgrades?

The rear-end on mine is stock with 3.31s, I like being able to do 170 in 4th lol. And yes, I have the Griggs racing watts link and the adjustable control arms and relocation brackets, the car handles amazing, but I want to do subframe connectors. And I want to do the kenne bell engine mounts as well.

 

[Vinnie_B]

Have you considered a rear seat delete? To me it seems to to be advantageous because of the larger distance between the bracing points. I nixed the rear strut tower brace idea for two reasons, first I'd have to lose the subwoofer in the trunk and second, the small non-triangulated distance between the shock mounting points. Juice isn't worth the squeeze.

M-6346612-B
View attachment 1818352

currently 9 available at Jegs.

Yes I agree with you on the shelby rear strut tower brace. I didnt feel it would help the chassis as much as it would when coming in/out of turns for (Body Roll). Im not stuck on doing anything at this point and hearing others opinions and knowlegge on the matter will help in my final descision.Thank you for the sharing your point!

I sure have looked into to these and I do like them. If I do a rear seat delete the one you posted would definitely be the one I would go with for sure.

Moser Engineering is offering 10% off for Black Friday through Monday. I pulled the trigger on a new M88 built to order unit last night featuring a 33-spline Truetrac differential w/ 3.55 gears, bolt in axles with access holes, aluminum girdle, adjustable LCA mounting points, powder coated semi-gloss black. I also purchased a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft from Lethal Performance at a 10% discount. I have also had a new Bob’s axle reservoir sitting around for years waiting on a new rearend installation.
I will be happy to upload pics and provide feedback on the M88 rearend once I get everything installed.

BMR rear suspension components with poly bushings are a worthy upgrade over stock components with rubber bushings… articulation is more smooth and precise, eliminating wheel hop. Eventually I wanted more control over rear axle location, so I went with Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable LCAs with spherical rod ends, which I am pleased with but they aren’t for everyone.

Thats awesome man sounds like you have a sound game plan with your driveline/rearend upgrades. That M88 Moser rearend looks like a quality upgrade and its more than likely the same route I will go. Keep us updated on the install and thank you for sharing!!

I had the Kenny Brown Racing parts on my car. The front lower control arm bushings never stopped squeaking no matter how much grease was used. The major problems with his parts are the the K-Member will bend due to hard braking at the front control arm mounting location. The square tubing he is using isn't strong enough. I had the parts on my car for a short amount of time and Kenny Brown took them back after I saw a car competing in the NASA American Iron class bend the K member. I actual reinstalled the factory K-Member and front suspension until Maximum Motorsports started selling their K-Member. In the rear I went with CorTeX Racing's Watts Link, rear LCA kit and Torque Arm in the racing versions with spherical bearings. Once Maximum Motorsports released their K-Member I went with it with Ford Performance M-5638-C polyurethane and Delrin bushings for the front lower control arms. CorTeX final released a K-Member and front LCA kit that works with struts versus their other K-Member that was designed and sold first with a SLA and coilovers shocks for the front. The car is riding on the 13 stock Bilstein struts and shocks with the Ford M-5300-L lowering springs with slightly higher spring rates than stock. I also have an Eibach adjustable front sway bar with spherical bearing adjustable links while retaining the stock rear bar and bushings

My car handles with a neutral feel versus the original factory feel of heavy understeer until you apply enough power to the rear tires to turn it into snap oversteer. The grip is extremely high with my combination and very predictable while spinning the rear tires without any crazy rear axle steering inputs caused by bushing deflection of the stock rubber bushings. The neutral grip never feels like the car is at it's limit of grip on the street no matter how hard it seems when you drive into a big curve. I've only had the rear end get loose on me once in an off camber turn with a raised hump in the middle of it that unloaded the rear suspension, as soon as I lifted off of the throttle the car stopped sliding and was easily accepting my steering inputs to go where I wanted it to go. Now my set up does transmit a high amount of NVH into the car cabin. Fortunately I'm willing to listen to it and consider it normal for the modifications done. All of it I believe is from the rear axle suspension modifications with spherical bushings. If you want something without the NVH I recommend the CorTeX Racing Street versions of what I used in my car.

Wow.....thanks for sharing on the kenny brown issues you experienced. I will definitely look into Cortex racing equipment as NVH is definitely a concern. I have the proper equipment Ford VCMM to test for NVH as I upgrade and will do a comparison to my base (Current setup) to the upgrades that are done. Thanks for sharing your experience and wealth of knowledge!!! Anyone local to looking wanting a NVH analysis done give me a holla!

The rear-end on mine is stock with 3.31s, I like being able to do 170 in 4th lol. And yes, I have the Griggs racing watts link and the adjustable control arms and relocation brackets, the car handles amazing, but I want to do subframe connectors. And I want to do the kenne bell engine mounts as well.
View attachment 1818404

Sweet! That griggs setup looks stout! I know those 3.31'S suit you better for what you have your shelby set up to do. I guess the only way to get things dialed in the way you like them is to be open to trying differnt setups. Thanks for sharing steve.

 

[Vinnie_B]

Anyone else agree/disagree that our S197'S Chassis (STREET) Max hp is around the 750-900 RWHP range before resulting to a more extreme race setup?

 

[Vinnie_B]

I had the Kenny Brown Racing parts on my car. The front lower control arm bushings never stopped squeaking no matter how much grease was used. The major problems with his parts are the the K-Member will bend due to hard braking at the front control arm mounting location. The square tubing he is using isn't strong enough. I had the parts on my car for a short amount of time and Kenny Brown took them back after I saw a car competing in the NASA American Iron class bend the K member. I actual reinstalled the factory K-Member and front suspension until Maximum Motorsports started selling their K-Member. In the rear I went with CorTeX Racing's Watts Link, rear LCA kit and Torque Arm in the racing versions with spherical bearings. Once Maximum Motorsports released their K-Member I went with it with Ford Performance M-5638-C polyurethane and Delrin bushings for the front lower control arms. CorTeX final released a K-Member and front LCA kit that works with struts versus their other K-Member that was designed and sold first with a SLA and coilovers shocks for the front. The car is riding on the 13 stock Bilstein struts and shocks with the Ford M-5300-L lowering springs with slightly higher spring rates than stock. I also have an Eibach adjustable front sway bar with spherical bearing adjustable links while retaining the stock rear bar and bushings

My car handles with a neutral feel versus the original factory feel of heavy understeer until you apply enough power to the rear tires to turn it into snap oversteer. The grip is extremely high with my combination and very predictable while spinning the rear tires without any crazy rear axle steering inputs caused by bushing deflection of the stock rubber bushings. The neutral grip never feels like the car is at it's limit of grip on the street no matter how hard it seems when you drive into a big curve. I've only had the rear end get loose on me once in an off camber turn with a raised hump in the middle of it that unloaded the rear suspension, as soon as I lifted off of the throttle the car stopped sliding and was easily accepting my steering inputs to go where I wanted it to go. Now my set up does transmit a high amount of NVH into the car cabin. Fortunately I'm willing to listen to it and consider it normal for the modifications done. All of it I believe is from the rear axle suspension modifications with spherical bushings. If you want something without the NVH I recommend the CorTeX Racing Street versions of what I used in my car.

You aint kidding......Cortex Racing has some quality options!! Because of what I have, im trying to keep it to what SAI used in there Anti hop package to keep the car legit. If it doesnt work out and im not satisfied with BMR equipment. I'll definitely look closer Cortex package options. Looks like some quality equipment and option!!!

 

[1Kona_Venom]

"BMR rear suspension components with poly bushings are a worthy upgrade over stock components with rubber bushings"

Tires play a huge part in feeling better planted too



I had a stock 2011 and drove it 4 hours to the shop to drop it off.
I did all the cookie cutter rear end stuff and lowered it.
It was a very noticeable improvement on the way home, same road etc.

I have followed the same path with my 2013 and it's even better than my 2011 because I have the adjustable bilsteins.

I will never dive deeper into my suspension than the basics.
Straight line ax murderer's don't need handling.

There's other platforms out there, that would be better than a solid axle GT500 for that plush handling experience.