ok thats what threw me off because i'm horrible at wiring. you could have wired it differently by running a wire straight from the battery to both 12v feeds on the relay then just ran a single wire to your trigger then just grounded the other side of the trigger inside the car, but there is more than one way to skin a cat as they say. Interested to see how your car responds on the stock converter.
Duel Relay Trans brake with a stock Converter: Before and After
- Thread starter truebluedevil02
- Start date
Don't you need a 2 step to keep from ballooning the converter?
I wired mine up earlier this week. Same as you, I could only get 1700 rpm on the foot brake. But with the transbrake I can get 2700 rpm.
My 60' prior to the transbrake were 1.83-1.86 consistently. The transbrake definitely gets rid of that "bog" when you first mat it using the foot brake.
2013 GT, stock converter, no tune change, no check engine light
here is a video:
[video=youtube;xdCN8tX56WY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdCN8tX56WY[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdCN8tX56WY&feature=youtu.be
My 60' prior to the transbrake were 1.83-1.86 consistently. The transbrake definitely gets rid of that "bog" when you first mat it using the foot brake.
2013 GT, stock converter, no tune change, no check engine light
here is a video:
[video=youtube;xdCN8tX56WY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdCN8tX56WY[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdCN8tX56WY&feature=youtu.be
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I wonder how much it could help if the converter isn't changed. One way to find out I guess.
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SO it says wires go to the trans, but where?
It's all in the diagram. If you're not good with wiring, don't try it.
The wires already go to the transmission. All your doing is splicing in near the PCM.
The brake is working good for me. From looking at your logs, yours slips to 2400 then gets pulled back down. Not sure if thats something in your low rpm tune, or if your converter is just tighter. Mine slips to 2700-2800 and takes off hard when I release the button. Im also spinning my blower harder so maybe I have more low rpm torque.
I think this would be great for a PD blower car still using the stock converter
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If it is written out I can wire it, Just not understanding the diagram. sorry
So has anyone heard of transmission issues caused by the this mod yet?
I would love to test it.
I'm having problems with my trans now. haven't gotten into it yet so not sure but it may have to something to do with all the passes on the transbrake. I'm running the 3 relay version launching at maybe 3800 rpms.
ANyone have a write up on this mod yet?
Would like to hear how many passes you have on the transbrake? Also the 3 relay raises the line pressure? Is that the difference?
Maybe 50 or more passes on the tbrake. Some launches over 4000.
Not sure if opening the line pressure circuit is what raises it. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in
Not sure if opening the line pressure circuit is what raises it. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in
So yesterday Mike got a new PB and we figured the trans brake is good for at least .1 E/T
Yes the 3 Relay raises the line pressure, and with the 3 relay one you have to adjust the tune. Only problem is with a 13-14 tune file there is a hard coded 3000rpm error code. so it will go into limp mode if your sitting at 3k+ without wheel speed.
The 2 relay is basically as safe as you can get... worst thing your going to do is hurt your internal trans clutches since what it does is engage 1,2,3 gear all at the same time. and since they share clutches they can slip from the power of the engine.
Anyway the diagram is about as much of a writeup you need... but the basics are,
take off top plug of ECU, cut tape and pull back wiring. as diagram says find wire going from pin 44 and 45 (believe they were grey and green, with stripe, but can change from year to year) if you look closely at one side of connector you can see the little numbers on either side. they dont label each one just outer most ones.
Cut wire, on plug side of both wires put 1 wire, on trans side (side going into main harness) you need to put 2 wires to each one. (label each one for ease, thats what the blue tape is) so you will have a total of 6 wires coming from the place you cut the wires. put wire harness back together and hook connector back to ECU.
We ran a new wire from the battery to the switch he has mounted in the vehicle. with a 5amp fuse close to the battery. then it goes to the momentary switch and then to where the relays are. and finally a ground that is right next to where the relays are mounted. once you have all the wires its a matter of putting them into the correct spot.
Took a while to make clean (with exception of the red wires, used what we had... ) but all in all turned out great and works well. if you have a line lock you can incorporate that into the switch as well, and have a toggle to disable Trans brake during burnout. All in all it works great and if effective.. especially for a sub $30 mod
Yes the 3 Relay raises the line pressure, and with the 3 relay one you have to adjust the tune. Only problem is with a 13-14 tune file there is a hard coded 3000rpm error code. so it will go into limp mode if your sitting at 3k+ without wheel speed.
The 2 relay is basically as safe as you can get... worst thing your going to do is hurt your internal trans clutches since what it does is engage 1,2,3 gear all at the same time. and since they share clutches they can slip from the power of the engine.
Anyway the diagram is about as much of a writeup you need... but the basics are,
take off top plug of ECU, cut tape and pull back wiring. as diagram says find wire going from pin 44 and 45 (believe they were grey and green, with stripe, but can change from year to year) if you look closely at one side of connector you can see the little numbers on either side. they dont label each one just outer most ones.
Cut wire, on plug side of both wires put 1 wire, on trans side (side going into main harness) you need to put 2 wires to each one. (label each one for ease, thats what the blue tape is) so you will have a total of 6 wires coming from the place you cut the wires. put wire harness back together and hook connector back to ECU.
We ran a new wire from the battery to the switch he has mounted in the vehicle. with a 5amp fuse close to the battery. then it goes to the momentary switch and then to where the relays are. and finally a ground that is right next to where the relays are mounted. once you have all the wires its a matter of putting them into the correct spot.
Took a while to make clean (with exception of the red wires, used what we had... ) but all in all turned out great and works well. if you have a line lock you can incorporate that into the switch as well, and have a toggle to disable Trans brake during burnout. All in all it works great and if effective.. especially for a sub $30 mod
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So on the diagram it shows the black wire, is that run to a button, then grounded?
We switched power vs ground. You can switch either. But ground for 2 step or line lock.
Here is how the splice works, and the labels i used.
This is the way we ran the switch, we switched the power side.
If you are running a Line lock, this is a way you could run the momentary switch so you only need 1 switch.
Here is some things i drew up, may be a bit easier to follow.
take off top plug of ECU, cut tape and pull back wiring. as diagram says find wire going from pin 44 and 45 (grey and green, but can change from year to year) if you look closely at one side of connector you can see the little numbers on either side. they dont label each one just outer most ones.
Cut wire, on plug side of both wires put 1 wire (44P and 45P, on trans side (44T and 45T) you need to put 2 wires to each one. (label each one for ease, thats what the blue tape is) so you will have a total of 6 wires coming from the place you cut the wires. put wire harness back together and hook connector back to ECU.
We ran a new wire from the battery to the switch he has mounted in the vehicle. with a 5amp fuse close to the battery. then it goes to the momentary switch and then to where the relays are. and finally a ground that is right next to where the relays are mounted. once you have all the wires its a matter of putting them into the correct spot.
Took a while to make clean (with exception of the red wires, used what we had... ) but all in all turned out great and works well. if you have a line lock you can incorporate that into the switch as well, and have a toggle to disable Trans brake during burnout. All in all it works great and if effective.. especially for a sub $30 mod
This is the way we ran the switch, we switched the power side.
If you are running a Line lock, this is a way you could run the momentary switch so you only need 1 switch.
Here is some things i drew up, may be a bit easier to follow.
take off top plug of ECU, cut tape and pull back wiring. as diagram says find wire going from pin 44 and 45 (grey and green, but can change from year to year) if you look closely at one side of connector you can see the little numbers on either side. they dont label each one just outer most ones.
Cut wire, on plug side of both wires put 1 wire (44P and 45P, on trans side (44T and 45T) you need to put 2 wires to each one. (label each one for ease, thats what the blue tape is) so you will have a total of 6 wires coming from the place you cut the wires. put wire harness back together and hook connector back to ECU.
We ran a new wire from the battery to the switch he has mounted in the vehicle. with a 5amp fuse close to the battery. then it goes to the momentary switch and then to where the relays are. and finally a ground that is right next to where the relays are mounted. once you have all the wires its a matter of putting them into the correct spot.
Took a while to make clean (with exception of the red wires, used what we had... ) but all in all turned out great and works well. if you have a line lock you can incorporate that into the switch as well, and have a toggle to disable Trans brake during burnout. All in all it works great and if effective.. especially for a sub $30 mod
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