Intermittent ticking??

AFLOCOBRA

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Listen to video.

Does noise change any with clutch pushed in?

Tob has been an issue on mine.

I had 1 bearing split and it was causing the fork to bang on transmission sounded like a rod let loose

But also known to squeak chirp rattle tap


When you Revved it up. I still heard this main sound that didn’t change

Sounded like popping

with the clutch in the noise is still there unfortunately.
 

AFLOCOBRA

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That doesn't sound like the valve "tick issue" to my ears. Hopefully it's an exhaust leak. It does sound more like that.
I surrrrre hope so, i used a stethoscope around the motor and it definitely was clicking louder than around driver side cylinder head especially around cylinders 6 7 and 8 but i will mention i am literally sticking the stethoscope probe onto the surface of the valve cover, valve cover screws and whatever i could reach on the exhaust manifolds but it was hard to tell what area i was in on the Exhaust manifold.
 

hotcobra03

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hmm the follower? is that part of the chain tensioners?


Follower is valve train.

It’s the piece between valve and lash adjuster. Moved by cam.

A basic compression test will give some answers and very easy to do.

I ran on 7 cylinders not knowing other than a spit and shudder getting up to speed.

And if a plug loose this will be seen at this time.

You can remove 1 belt also

If after market lower is on inner belt can also be removed and engine ran to confirm accessory’s isn’t the cause.



Pinpointing this isn’t easy
 

hotcobra03

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I surrrrre hope so, i used a stethoscope around the motor and it definitely was clicking louder than around driver side cylinder head especially around cylinders 6 7 and 8 but i will mention i am literally sticking the stethoscope probe onto the surface of the valve cover, valve cover screws and whatever i could reach on the exhaust manifolds but it was hard to tell what area i was in on the Exhaust manifold.


Sethoscpoe. If you take point off and add a hose. You will hear the slightest exhaust leak easy.

Nice firm hose you can reach every connection.

Will also help with tick
 

AFLOCOBRA

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Follower is valve train.

It’s the piece between valve and lash adjuster. Moved by cam.

A basic compression test will give some answers and very easy to do.

I ran on 7 cylinders not knowing other than a spit and shudder getting up to speed.

And if a plug loose this will be seen at this time.

You can remove 1 belt also

If after market lower is on inner belt can also be removed and engine ran to confirm accessory’s isn’t the cause.



Pinpointing this isn’t easy

you know what your right, compression test will definitely give me a better idea, im going to autozone after i run some errands right now, throttle has to be open for compression test right? i need to disconnect fuel as well probably just from the injector connectors im thinking.
 

hotcobra03

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you know what your right, compression test will definitely give me a better idea, im going to autozone after i run some errands right now, throttle has to be open for compression test right? i need to disconnect fuel as well probably just from the injector connectors im thinking.


Remove all plugs.

Tie throttle wide open.

Pull fuel pump fuse

Warm engine.
 

AFLOCOBRA

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Remove all plugs.

Tie throttle wide open.

Pull fuel pump fuse

Warm engine.

thank you sir, tried the stethoscope with the hose, just too damn difficult to get a good trace of the sound. I took her for a drive went 1-4 wot no hiccups runs perfect just that annoying ass tick at idle. Tomorrow morning ill warm her up and pull the plugs and fp fuse and do a compression check all around. ill keep you posted. thank you.
 

AFLOCOBRA

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i have made pulls in it but the tick never got louder or anything, the tick got louder when i got home from work 1 night, i drove 70-75mph all the way home so idk..but heres the mods.

COBRA BUILD:

04 Mustang Cobra OW

2.76 Pulley
#2 lower (totals boost at about 16PSI)
Stage 8 Stegmeier port
Diablosport MAF
JLT High Boost CAI
SLP LM I’s exhaust
Centerforce dual clutch
60lb injectors

Kurgan Tuned
Dyno Tuned @ 503 RWHP 509 RWTQ

Engine/supercharger
rebuilt @ 103,260 miles

Last oil @ 110k Mobil 1 5-30w
/ spark plugs NGK TR6 .030

she only has a little over 7000 miles saddly.
 

BlckBox04

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It’s so hard to tell not in person but to me that does sound like it’s coming from the motor
 

AFLOCOBRA

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Follower is valve train.

It’s the piece between valve and lash adjuster. Moved by cam.

A basic compression test will give some answers and very easy to do.

I ran on 7 cylinders not knowing other than a spit and shudder getting up to speed.

And if a plug loose this will be seen at this time.

You can remove 1 belt also

If after market lower is on inner belt can also be removed and engine ran to confirm accessory’s isn’t the cause.

well i did the compression test and the results are as follows....
Cylinder - 1 - 160, 2- 140, 3- 155, 4- 155, 5- 155, 6- 151, 7- 150, 8- 125....
#8 definitely no bueno..



Pinpointing this isn’t easy
 

AFLOCOBRA

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Remove all plugs.

Tie throttle wide open.

Pull fuel pump fuse

Warm engine.


well i did the compression test and the results are as follows....
Cylinder - 1 - 160, 2- 140, 3- 155, 4- 155, 5- 155, 6- 151, 7- 150, 8- 125....
#8 definitely no bueno..
 

Canuck03SVT

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Sorry to hear. Can you scope the cylinder to see the condition of it?
 

CobraBob

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Wow, 7K miles and those are results of your compression tests. Just curious. Are you the original owner?
 

AFLOCOBRA

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Wow, 7K miles and those are results of your compression tests. Just curious. Are you the original owner?
no sir i just bought it. i think its had 3 owners before me. the last owner was the one who had the motor rebuilt. i have all the documentation for the work. says everything was redone bottom end top end. whats mind bobbling is they didnt do the cylinder head cooling mod!?
 
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