if you have a PDF version of the install for a 2010 Shelby could you send it to me? [email protected]
Killer Chiller GT500!
- Thread starter J.Kincaid
- Start date
New drag kit valve.
We just fired it up and took temp readings, and with the valve open in normal mode, with no HE, we saw temps of 47 degrees...Now in drag mode with the valve closed, we saw temps of 28 degrees!!!...let me say that again...In drag mode we saw temps of 28 degrees!!!
We'll have pics and vids tomorrow!
Now this is what I had in mind for temps
I wonder how ice in the reservoir and the KC would work? 65* temps?
We usually idle it for about 5 minutes to let it get icy cold.
Understand that we're spinning this blower as hard as possible so it's making a lot of heat. We dropped temps by over 55 degrees (That's huge!!) over the stock system, so I'd say that's pretty darn good. Also we picked up almost 5 mile an hour thru the traps over the stock setup, so I'd say that's pretty darn good too!
Also when we went to the track with the stock setup to log temps it was 10 degrees cooler out, and we were seeing 164 IAT-2 going thru the traps. That was after we let it sit with the hood open for 40 minutes between runs.
Keep in mind that there's no insulation on any of the lines or the reservoir, so once we insulate everything we should see temps drop another 4-5 degrees. Here's something else you have to figure, we're only running a little over a gallon of total fluid, so when you do your burn out you're heating that fluid up a little before you stage. That's why for drag racing it's a good idea to have a little extra fluid on tap for reserve. We're going to put another gallon resevoir in this setup so we'll have enough reserve capacity. those temps in the video would have been under a 100 going thru the traps if we had 2 gallons of ice cold fluid as apposed to just over 1.
Did you go full screen on this video? If you do you can see it pretty well.
We're using the Aeroforce gauge to monitor IATs
I'll check here shortly
We'll have a full install with pics here shortly. You'll be able to download them off our site.
The KC will get the IC fluids below freezing, so it would keep the ice in the tank for a much longer time.
Is that with the hood open or closed?
My question of how are the temperatures measured was meant for Brian98svt with the moroso tank. I believe he was referring to temps in the reservoir as supposed to IAT2s.
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Most of the time that's with the hood open, but you can do it either way. You'll get more air flow across the condenser/radiator with the hood open, and the system will chill down quicker and colder that way. The more air flow across the condenser the colder the system will get. That's why the temps are colder when you're out on the street driving around.
I thought he was referring to IAT-2s? Either way he makes our point. instead of going thru the trouble of draining your reservoir and then adding ice between runs, just turn your AC on 5 minutes before you stage. Also you'll have ice cold reservoir temps out on the street too. I guess you could stop every 3-4 miles and put more ice in your reservoir, but you wont need to do it with this kit.
New aux tank. This holds just over a gallon, and will give you the additional fluid capacity needed to keep your downstream temps nice and low. this will work whether your using the KC or icing the reservoir down.
Fits 2007-2012
No its actually a good question. If you choose not to run an HE with this kit, then during the cold months you would select defrost and adjust the temps for hot/warm, whatever temps you're comfortable with. The AC compressor engages in defrost mode, and the IC fluid will stay ice cold.
New aux tank. This holds just over a gallon, and will give you the additional fluid capacity needed to keep your downstream temps nice and low. this will work whether your using the KC or icing the reservoir down.
Fits 2007-2012
What water pump are you running? If it's the stock 07-12 Bosch you will see much better results running the 13' GT500 pump.
we made a system similar to this years ago for the terminator and lightnings. they work incredibly well and after my last track day and my 3x coolant res warping on me i was thinking i really needed to get one in my gt500. i had one of these in my pullied terminator (our system) and it was just insane at how well it worked. so i cant recommend a system like this enough. we stopped making them as they were too much of a hassle for us to deal with. i still have some parts for a system but i may be interested in grabbing one of these KC instead. i really like the flip switch idea for no condensation for track usage. great idea. :beer:
joe, do you have to cut lines or any part of the car? i know the earliest KC systems you had to but i thought i had heard that you changed that.
besides everything joe said in his reply, the MAJOR thing here is "always on". unless youre drag racing at the track, you cant keep adding ice etc... plus that takes a while. when i had my system in my truck, i took it to a drag strip. i made back to back passes (private track day, no waiting) non-stop. by the time i got back in line, the coolant was very cold again. meanwhile other cobra/lightning guys were in the pits putting bags of ice on their blowers and waiting around for them too cool down.
even at wot back to back, the coolant never got HOT. once you let off the accelerator it starts kicking in immediately and cooling the fluid down again. i made multiple passes up and down the street at a dyno day then immediately popped my hood and i could lay my hand directly on my eaton. it was barely warm. try doing that without this system lol.
joe, do you have to cut lines or any part of the car? i know the earliest KC systems you had to but i thought i had heard that you changed that.
besides everything joe said in his reply, the MAJOR thing here is "always on". unless youre drag racing at the track, you cant keep adding ice etc... plus that takes a while. when i had my system in my truck, i took it to a drag strip. i made back to back passes (private track day, no waiting) non-stop. by the time i got back in line, the coolant was very cold again. meanwhile other cobra/lightning guys were in the pits putting bags of ice on their blowers and waiting around for them too cool down.
even at wot back to back, the coolant never got HOT. once you let off the accelerator it starts kicking in immediately and cooling the fluid down again. i made multiple passes up and down the street at a dyno day then immediately popped my hood and i could lay my hand directly on my eaton. it was barely warm. try doing that without this system lol.
I agree on the ice thing, it is a pita to drain and fill etc. it's like comparing a blower to nitrous, the blower is always there, the nitrous you have to fill bottles, open bottles etc. it's convenience your paying extra for. A bag of ice is 2 bucks versus the KC system and install. I do like the drag set up and I'm considering it depending on pricing and ease of install. I also realize their test car is making more boost than mine, I make 17lbs of boost so obviously their car is making more heat. Like I said I wasn't knocking it I was just expecting lower temps. I'd like to see results from a 1/4 mile pass with the drag set up.
OP is only making 1-2lb more boost. You won't see a huge swing between the two.
that's correct ,were making 2-3 more pounds of boost than he is, but we're still having to spin the blower much harder to make that at our altitude. That's why the excessive temps. We have a customer out here with a built challenger. He's at the same power level, and he's in the same boat. He's spinning his blower so hard he's seeing 180 IAT-2. We're gonna install a kit for him next week.
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We'll have better video up tonight with some stop and go driving, and a little 3 gear burst to show how quickly the temps fall back down. It was 85 degrees out, and we were seeing below ambient downstream temps for the norm.
The thing that got me about this car is how hot it got, and how sluggish it was afterwards. With the KC on board that problem doesn't exist anymore. It just feels strong and responsive all the time.
The thing that got me about this car is how hot it got, and how sluggish it was afterwards. With the KC on board that problem doesn't exist anymore. It just feels strong and responsive all the time.
How many RPM is the blower turning? Or what is the upper pulley DIA, lower pulley DIA and engine RPM? Which TVS is it?
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This is a better video of the Shelby in stop and go traffic with the KC engaged. You'll see that when we're able to accelerate that the downstream temps will decrease, as apposed to increasing in temps, which you would normally see in a stock setup. The IAT-2 sensor is connected to the lower manifold and at idle it sees very little air passing across it, so when you accelerate the sensor is able to see a larger volume of the colder air stream.
This is a better video of the Shelby in stop and go traffic with the KC engaged. You'll see that when we're able to accelerate that the downstream temps will decrease, as apposed to increasing in temps, which you would normally see in a stock setup. The IAT-2 sensor is connected to the lower manifold and at idle it sees very little air passing across it, so when you accelerate the sensor is able to see a larger volume of the colder air stream.
One thing we didn't take into account. After installing the kit and recharging the AC we were able to see some really great sub freezing temps, but when we just tested the reservoir temps again they were not as cold. Initially we were able to get down into the single digit territory, but with the nose back on the car we're not able to get as much air flow across the condenser and we're seeing a best of 26 degrees with the hood up. BJ at VMP sent us a new file that would turn the cooling fan on high instead of 50%. We'll be testing the results of that when we get some better ambient temps. Seems the cooling fan, cycles off and on with peak high pressure...On at around 350psi, and off at around 150psi depending on evap temps.
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