ok ,, so just cams ? without springs ?
does the spring will tolerate that?
does the spring will tolerate that?
L&M Cams!
- Thread starter MikeHoncho
- Start date
Im thinking that is cams, springs, and retainers along with being properly degreed to make the power difference that Ive heard. Im still curious on price as well.
I've been kicking this around since I got her mid last year... Was thinking about the comp cam at $1250 + springs and retainers. I've got a quote of $950 on the table for labor from a reputable performance shop here in Houston. I'd provide the tune from Lund which I think will cost me an additional $250 unless I get some deal for already having purchased a tune from them. I need to finalize cam brand and the variables of said cam to place order. Hoping to get some ideas here along with cost confirmation as well so I can give myself a birthday present this August...
IMO for what little price difference that exists now you would be better off doing a custom cam suited to your car. Then you can get it made to exactly fit what you want
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These cams were $1650. They didn't require springs and retainers. The remote tune from Lund was $250. I don't know how much labor was for the cams, because I had a t-stat, coolant tanks, C&R HE, and BMR K-member installed while I was there too. I had the work done in Houston also.
Thank you.
Do you mind sharing how much the labor for that was since its not hard to do the other items listed.
Thanks
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Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
Oddly enough Michael Rauscher's design does not require springs and retainers nor does this cam have to be degreed. Yes there is power to be gained with degreeing these cams or any cam for that matter but per Michael it's not completely necessary with this cam profile.
Ill remove my foot from my mouth then and say I was wrong. I thought for sure it would need springs and retainers to pick up the power numbers Jr. and I were discussing they should make. That fact just made them even more attractive to me.
Wow, no springs or retainers! That really helps with the decision, thanks for all this info. I was a little concerned with the fact I've heard they have to drop the engine some for springs but if its just the cams the works done top side. So to confirm you got 50+ WHP increases and have zero negative issues from this mod?? Car does not try to die at idle?? Lastly which shop did you use in Houston??
That's what is like to know. What does it do to the normal driving of the car. Such as stalling upon stopping, surging in the throttle, etc.
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The work was done at Kinetik Motorsports in Houston. They did it with the motor in the car.
The car doesn't die at idle or once you stop. It surges some at low speeds, but once you get to 10-20 mph, it runs great. When I picked it up, it was 5 o'clock in Houston, and I didn't have a problem.
We saw 50 rwhp on a pull to 6K rpms with the clutch slipping. So there is a lot more left.
What exactly does "degreeing" mean and do?
from crane cam website
What is Meant by Degreeing the Camshaft, and Why is it Necessary?
The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically.
If the circumstances were perfect, one would only need to line up the marks on the timing chain sprockets and the cam would be degreed. In reality, you are dealing with a group of components (the camshaft, crankshaft, timing chain, and sprockets), all with their own standards and tolerances. If these tolerances stack up against you, it could throw you out of alignment. Without degreeing the cam you can never be sure that the parts are in correct position. If you have the tools and expertise, we always recommend that the camshaft's position in the engine be degreed in.
What is Meant by Degreeing the Camshaft, and Why is it Necessary?
The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically.
If the circumstances were perfect, one would only need to line up the marks on the timing chain sprockets and the cam would be degreed. In reality, you are dealing with a group of components (the camshaft, crankshaft, timing chain, and sprockets), all with their own standards and tolerances. If these tolerances stack up against you, it could throw you out of alignment. Without degreeing the cam you can never be sure that the parts are in correct position. If you have the tools and expertise, we always recommend that the camshaft's position in the engine be degreed in.
Thanks, I've heard good things about them.
Thank you sir!!
Really depends on your goals, both are VERY proven performers.
The JDM is one grind suited for drag strip use, it seems like L&M has more grinds to choose from.
To my knowledge, I don't think anyone has done a comparison test between aftermarket cams.
-J
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