LOUD ticking on start-up. Dang. Let's see what it is!

BlksvtCobra01

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Nice work glad it was something minor. How hard was it to do the blue valve covers?


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silver03svt

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Nice work glad it was something minor. How hard was it to do the blue valve covers?


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It was actually pretty easy with Ebay's Buy It Now option! :beer: BUT, We did strip the paint off of the old covers so they could be painted, and that really wasn't that hard to do. Spray on aircraft aluminum stripper, we used 2 cans.

If you are talking about changing the covers out on the car, it's not really difficult, just a little time consuming bc you have to undo the clutch cable AND take off the power brake booster from the firewall.
 
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BlksvtCobra01

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It was actually pretty easy with Ebay's Buy It Now option! :beer: BUT, We did strip the paint off of the old covers so they could be painted, and that really wasn't that hard to do. Spray on aircraft aluminum stripper, we used 2 cans.

If you are talking about changing the covers out on the car, it's not really difficult, just a little time consuming bc you have to undo the clutch cable AND take off the power brake booster from the firewall.

It's on my list of things to do. A friend of mines 13 GT500 has them from the factory and they look so much better than the silver our Cobra's came with. What did you do about the master cylinder? Drain the brake fluid so you did not spill any on the paint?


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silver03svt

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It's on my list of things to do. A friend of mines 13 GT500 has them from the factory and they look so much better than the silver our Cobra's came with. What did you do about the master cylinder? Drain the brake fluid so you did not spill any on the paint?


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No. No need to drain it. It is sealed. But you do need to unhook the master from the booster, then unhook the booster from the firewall. The booster needs to be pulled towards the inner fender (use cardboard to avoid scratches) so the cover can come out. I think mine was made a bit easier to remove also because the Eaton and fuel rails were off.
 

BlksvtCobra01

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No. No need to drain it. It is sealed. But you do need to unhook the master from the booster, then unhook the booster from the firewall. The booster needs to be pulled towards the inner fender (use cardboard to avoid scratches) so the cover can come out. I think mine was made a bit easier to remove also because the Eaton and fuel rails were off.

Thanks for the tips.


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silver03svt

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Started reassembly today. Pulled the passenger side tensioner off and found that the gasket behind it also had a rip in it. Got them replaced, timing cover back on, cam covers back on, buttoned up the brake booster and reservoir, clutch cable reconnected, etc........ I still have quite a ways to go before she is ready to be fired up, but I am hoping by Saturday it'll be ready. A few pics from tonight.

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silver03svt

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A little more reassembly last night. Was working by myself, so I just took my time putting things back on.

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silver03svt

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^ Thanks. I've always loved the Ford Racing blue cam covers on the 4v motors, and I fell in love with the coil covers because they remind me of the old school 260/289/302/351 valve covers. Just couldn't resist the combo!
 

silver03svt

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^ It's a 2lb lower....I run it with a 2.9 upper. She sees 16 lbs of boost.
 

silver03svt

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Spent last night and today getting everything all buttoned up, and fired the old girl up. No tick on initial start-up, which is an oh-so-sweet sound! Also, I had to install a new headlight panel because the car's original one had a broken tab where the bumper attaches just inside of the driver's headlight.

Few pics and a quick vid.

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[youtube_browser]mBH-OB6ENj4[/youtube_browser]
 

04sleeper

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Huh? Explain please.
From the video, it seems you have a passenger side breather. On the drivers side it looks like you are still running the PCV system. This would create unmetered air "after" the MAF.

Remember, one valve cover shares the same crankcase air as the other. So you either run 2 breathers or none.
 

silver03svt

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From the video, it seems you have a passenger side breather. On the drivers side it looks like you are still running the PCV system. This would create unmetered air "after" the MAF.

Remember, one valve cover shares the same crankcase air as the other. So you either run 2 breathers or none.

Gotcha. I was planning on doing a breather on the driver's side too, but I was unsure what to do with the vacuum line that goes down behind the engine behind the blower. I know I can just cap the Eaton itself, but there is that T-connection just before that.

Could I just cap the side of the T off that comes from the driver's side PCV?
 
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