I mean since you’re strong arming me. I’ll still take it for you.
It’s a new blower from the last time I actually had it tuned/on the road.
It makes boost initially. But dropped significantly around 4k rpms. I think if the intake was cracked it would have a hard time making it at all.
Every gasket has been changed. Vac lines checked and sprayed. Boost actuator is operating correctly. No signs of leaks.
What about valve springs?? Is there any scenario they could be the culprit? They are literally the only thing that hasn’t been changed between the two sets of cams.
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How much boost did you loseAfter cam swap the car is still dropping boost.
Figured it would. I’m not sure what I’m going to do. This is absolutely frustrating.
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This but have you discussed with Whipple?Most of the time belt slip will start at around 4k or so. When I got my combo together I was getting 25/26 lbs right off the hit. By 6500 rpm I was down to 19 lbs. Went to a shorter belt and had my upper pulley carbonite coated and now holds 25 lbs right to 7200 rpm.
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That was actually going to be my next post. At this point I'd get it back and depending on how you feel when you see it throw it under a cover for a bit.I haven’t called yet, but I think it’s time to cut my losses get the car back and take it somewhere else.
Anyone have a recommended shop in Central Florida?
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I think it's already been mentioned, but Modular Head Shop seem to know these motors pretty well.I haven’t called yet, but I think it’s time to cut my losses get the car back and take it somewhere else.
Anyone have a recommended shop in Central Florida?
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MPR is just a motor shop though, not sure if MHS does repair/diagnostic work or notMHS, MPR, VMP etc are all in FL and specialize in mod motors
You might be thinking of the two bolts that hold the EGR bracket on. They seal the inlet elbow. The car would idle like crap if those weren't in there. Learned that one the hard way.I am going to take a massive shot in the dark and also say I am most likely wrong but here goes.
Doesn't the 2.9 whipple have 2 plugs that need to be installed where the blower bolts to the manifold?
I thought these plugs were critical to allow the blower to be sealed to the manifold?
If the above is correct are you sure they are installed?
Again sorry if this is wrong, just trying to help.
What springs are in there?
Have you had anyone combover a datalog and dyno sheet to see if they can see anything?
Could there be a leak that happens once the system starts seeing boost?
Does two women scissoring sound like an armpit farting contest?
We did have some slip initially, this has been fixed. New belt, new roush tensioner and a RR pulley.Most of the time belt slip will start at around 4k or so. When I got my combo together I was getting 25/26 lbs right off the hit. By 6500 rpm I was down to 19 lbs. Went to a shorter belt and had my upper pulley carbonite coated and now holds 25 lbs right to 7200 rpm.
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We have smoked and used starting fluid. No leaks under idle vacuum.Best way to check for a vacuum leak is to start the car and get a can of starting fluid and just do small squirts behind the blower. If it revs up then you know you have an issue.
On a side note if you have one of the vacuum lines crossed in the back like the boost gauge and the a/c line that could potentially cause an issue. Check to see if your a/c works properly that would be a tale tale sign