:rockon: How many amp. alt.?
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...816-alternator-cooling-duct-w-pics-heavy.html
Pretend it's the Billet Tech as I simply affixed the duct to the alt. in the same manner
Mechman/Billet-Tech Alternators
- Thread starter BayAreaTech
- Start date
:rockon: How many amp. alt.?
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...816-alternator-cooling-duct-w-pics-heavy.html
Pretend it's the Billet Tech as I simply affixed the duct to the alt. in the same manner
you need to turn it up....a 12v battery "should" be charged over 14. Thats what the adjustable regulator is for :thumbsup:
Last edited:
Did he get the adjustable regulator option?
I didn't sell to him, but I don't think he has an adjustable regulator. BADASS03SVT has an adjustable internal regulator because of his battery choice. It is not a standard option on these units.
13.5V is OK to charge a flooded lead-acid battery, because their resting voltage is usually very low (12.5V or lower).
On an AGM battery, the resting voltage is higher (12.8-13V on a 12V battery), so you would like to see charging voltage around 13.8-14.4V. You don't usually want to see above 14.8-15V on a 12V AGM battery - this can cause severe damage. Seriously, they swell-up like a balloon - this is also why you need to use a AGM Charger on AGM batteries.
touche....was too early for me!
No adjustable regulator here. New this year stock Motorcraft battery. The numbers were while sitting in the driveway after the install.
Put a hundred miles on it today and guage read 13.9 to 14.2 all day long.
All seems good to me.
Put a hundred miles on it today and guage read 13.9 to 14.2 all day long.
All seems good to me.
Thanks for posting the link.
Perfect, exactly what I'm looking for with the 170a unit. What accessories were you running? I assume at least AC. Did you throw the lights or anything else on for poops and laughs?
Had a Dyno session last night. Alternator worked very well. My system is a little different (14v) than most but I set the charge voltage to 16 at idle and during a WOT pull it was steady at 15. Ill have more specific numbers this weekend once I look at the logs.
<------ remember race car. My single pump is used on 16v systems charged at 18 volts.
Maybe Fastlane has a take on this? But the guys at Mechman said they run it like this on all of their "street cars". I dunno
I certainly don't mind steering people toward 14v systems (I sell the alternators and batteries/ battery chargers that make this possible). That being said, every model of car is different and can react differently with such a high charging voltage (16.5V, usually). Since your car was designed to run properly and dependably on a 12V system, funny things can, and DO happen - some small examples: the higher voltage will certainly effect your A/F and the lifespan of things like light bulbs will diminish. However, properly tuned, your car should make more power simply by swapping to the 14V system. Also, late model vehicles with PCM controlled voltage regulators do not take well to 14V systems. If you are bothered by warning lights galore, or don't like the idea of having completely separate electrical systems for body and powertrain - the 14V system is not for you (if your vehicle has a PCM controlled voltage regulator).
Another good way to think about 14V is to understand that MOST race cars use 16V systems (Charging voltage 18.9ish volts). 14V (charging voltage 16.5ish volts) is safer for the body electrics of a street car.
Remember, voltage is potential energy. So it has a distinct effect on electrical components. Your fuel pump, starter, and window motors will turn faster than they used to (this also means they will wear-out faster).
Another good way to think about 14V is to understand that MOST race cars use 16V systems (Charging voltage 18.9ish volts). 14V (charging voltage 16.5ish volts) is safer for the body electrics of a street car.
Remember, voltage is potential energy. So it has a distinct effect on electrical components. Your fuel pump, starter, and window motors will turn faster than they used to (this also means they will wear-out faster).
Last edited:
Cranked up the 170a std. regulator unit today. 6lb. lower 2.8" alt. pulley.
Before doing so my PC680 sized Lithium starter battery was sitting in the refrigerator for a week and topped off before being reinstalled in the car. Before turning over it tested at 13.4v. Sitting on jack stands I saw 14.77v between the battery posts and between 14.2v and 14.5v on the Aeroforce gauge which typically loses .3v by the time the info gets to the readout. I let the coolant temps. to run up to full operating and saw the same values, road testing should be happen sometime next week.
BTW, I've never seen over 13.8v with the OE alt. nor the S&T in the past.
Interesting I would have thought a dedicated race car running less accessories etc. would do just fine with a 12v system or total loss even.
Before doing so my PC680 sized Lithium starter battery was sitting in the refrigerator for a week and topped off before being reinstalled in the car. Before turning over it tested at 13.4v. Sitting on jack stands I saw 14.77v between the battery posts and between 14.2v and 14.5v on the Aeroforce gauge which typically loses .3v by the time the info gets to the readout. I let the coolant temps. to run up to full operating and saw the same values, road testing should be happen sometime next week.
BTW, I've never seen over 13.8v with the OE alt. nor the S&T in the past.
Interesting I would have thought a dedicated race car running less accessories etc. would do just fine with a 12v system or total loss even.
12V is just fine, but consider that the higher voltage = more performance out of just about every electrical component in the drivetrain.
Also, 14V and 16V especially shine in a total-loss charging system. Instead of starting at 12.5-12.8V and dropping, you are starting at almost 15V (14V) and almost 17V (16V) and dropping.
Glad to hear your voltage is doing well! :rockon:
well what have I REALLY removed that would have been on during a trip down the 1320? not much....radio? a/c and heat arent on...a few unused sensors here and there? (egr etc) On my ebay Alt I was seeing low 13s to high 12s down the track which was very comparable to a fomoco unit.
Just putting it out there. Guess you will find out.
Since installing the revised Welded Alt I have seen 15.3v I have tried 3 other meters just to confirm the voltage...Should I be concerned? Mechman install sheet I received with the first Alt said over 15v was over charging and could damage the AGM battery......Sometimes I see 15.6
Only the very first Alt from Mechman read a healthy 14.9 the last 2 have read over 15v
Only the very first Alt from Mechman read a healthy 14.9 the last 2 have read over 15v
Figured lights would be deleted as well, maybe even the fan. Anyhow I just took a look over in the Ebay Alt. thread and saw it's amp output curve. I noticed 57a at 1800rpm and on up from there but still not impressive. I guess you get you what you pay for. I can see that being a problem, especially considering the power output of the Mech. at 800rpm showing at 152a. ;-)
no...I could still register my car if I really wanted to. working lights, power windows and locks, wipers. But none of those things are on during the day.
Users who are viewing this thread
