Mod or Leave As-is?

GNBRETT

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well then I would say leave it the F alone..... I would love to own anything that I didn't feel the need to modify.

Had many Buick Grand Nationals over the last 20 years and if I bought a GNX I would not touch it! selling any classic is always easier stock no doubt!

if car shows are what u got it for then good for you and just leave it.
 

CV355

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I'm glad I started this thread. Sounds like the consensus is that driveability mods are within reason.

And Magnum 500s. :)
 

biminiLX

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I've thought about that, but I keep coming back to just wanting a show car with good driver characteristics. It's also an insurance policy in case something bad ever happens- I can sell it for recovery quicker if it's not modded to hell and back.
I always say to drive it first. Get used to the car as is and then determine what you feel it needs before modding all over.
I would suggest wheels first however. Can you tell I love the wheels haha
-J
 

B7BlownSnake

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Pics! The blue tape is where the windows don't line up perfectly- wanted to seal it decently during the wash.

The window needs a slight alignment fix but it feels like the glue is holding up well on the track. Regulator is smooth, no issues there.

My dad and I are restoring his 69 convertible. We're about to buy the bolt-in windows from the 1970s. Eliminate the glue issues. If you're actually having glue issues, this is a nice permanent fix.
 

COOL COBRA

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I always liked the look of the GT style Mach wheels. Steel wheel, bright center cap & beauty ring.
500's are sharp but slightly too common it seems.
If I was lucky enough to own an older Mach like you, I'd probably have a set of each just to swap it up every now and then.
 

Papaw

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Going all original is just as slippery a slope as modified! Trying to make it just like it rolled off of the assembly line is a HUGE undertaking. Infinite research, rare parts to locate, much less afford, crazy attention to detail. It can really get involved. Some times a tastefully modded classic just hits the sweet spot.
 

GNBRETT

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totally agree. some mods actually do raise the value of the car. lets face it a full resto for a classic can be several hundred thousand so we know it aint all ORIGINAL shit

Me too.

However, I think modding the car for better drivability is a good thing, OP.
 

aoc racer

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Q code is pretty rare but since it's not completely original I would do some light suspension mods to make it more comfortable to drive. I'm talking about larger sway bar, better shocks, radial tires if it doesn't already have some. But it's your car so have fun.

Oh and post pics. 69 Mach's are so bad ass.
*edit*
Sorry I missed the pics on the 2nd page. Love that color/decal combo.
 

Clemsix

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Get it appraised, then have it assessed for cost impact with your proposed mods. If the price is right sell it and find a similar pro-street car. Mod it like you want and then drive it like no tomorrow!

Clemsix
 

mustangbrad

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The earlier 6 cylinder cars were 4 lug. All of the V8's were 5 lug, and by 69 they had completely dropped the 4 lug spindles.

If you continue to have trouble with the windows, swap them over to 1970 windows, like stated earlier. The 1970 windows bolt to the regulator! Be careful of going to Magnum 500 wheels, I have seen many that were bent right out of the box. By and large they are cheaply made wheels. You can find good ones you just have to look. When dad put them on his 69 Mach 1 we went through 6 brand new ones to find 4 usable wheels.

Fuel injection and overdrive will make it much more driver friendly. When it come to suspension and brakes, there is almost no limit to what you can do to these. Opentracker Racing Products and Maier Racing make some great stuff for the suspension that won't break the bank. If you want to go further, check out Street Or Track. These are just a couple vendors. There are countless others.

I'm not in the "keep it stock camp" but try not to cut any of the factory sheet metal either that way it is easy to go back to stock. You can improve these cars in every conceivable way and barely leave a permanent mark.

That is a sweet car, nice score!!!
 

CV355

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In the interest of not creating another thread, I figured I'd update this one.

Drove the '69 to a local custom shop today- that was an adventure all on its own. Once it was on the lift, we found some good areas to start:

1) Steering. Damn. Definitely putting a Flaming River steering box in, and replacing the idler arm. How I managed to drive there and not wind up in a ditch is nothing short of a miracle. Had to oversteer then return to work out backlash as I was driving. Highway driving was a breeze.

2) Radiator cooling capacity & better shroud. Old one is getting torn out for sure.

3) New oil pan and transmission pan.

4) Speedometer decided to go nuts as I was on the highway. Looked down, it read 100mph, and my rpms were at 3k in 3rd with 4.11s. Nope. Maybe 72 max. Not sure how a mechanical speedometer loses sync like that, so I've got some reading to do.

The rest of the car looks absolutely solid from underneath. Zero rust, evidence supporting an excelling restoration. You'd never know it was a nearly 50 year old car. Engine ran strong, transmission shifts firm.

After talking with the owner of the shop, we both agreed that we want to keep it as stock as possible but upgrade some of the creature comforts of driving as discussed in this thread. I'm pretty excited for how phase 1 turns out. Once the main mechanical culprits are resolved, I'll go to town on the little stuff and get the paint looking show-ready.

Quite honestly, with the exception of the steering as-is, the car was a pleasure to drive.
 
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COOL COBRA

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Sounds like it's making you happy, it damn sure would me. That is my favorite car of all time yet I've still not owned one....
Keep us posted on the progress!
 

mustangbrad

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In my opinion you are going the right direction. When replacing steering/suspension components you might want to look for rollerized versions of the stock components, I.E. the idler arm. The speedo is probably off because someone replaced the rear end ratio and failed to install the appropriate speedometer drive gear on the transmission end of the cable. Please keep us posted on your progress!
 

RedVenom48

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Awesome man, simply awesome! I think the pro-touring approach would work well for this quality of car. Mostly bolt on parts to give it great handling and braking. easy to return to stock.

Years and years ago I owned a rust free primer 1970 Chevelle SS with M21 4 speed and 4.10 drag gears in the 12 bolt. Originally it was an SS396, but somewhere along the lines it got a year correct 454ci LS5. Needed complete restoration. I had the engine rebuilt and a new interior kit put in.

Plans were to go pro touring with it. I dreamed of a full Hotchkiss suspension, FAST EFI, ported heads and nitrous. It needed more work than I had money left and any skill to do it on my own. Sold her to what I hoped was a good new owner. Ive since become an automotive technician, and a Ford guy to the core! But the experience with that Chevelle influenced me more than anything else ever has or will.

Ive no doubt your beautiful Mach 1 and that fire breathing 428 CobraJet will lead you down a wonderful, glorious path!
 

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