Motor mount replacement

[pbeechner]

Hey guys, so I found out that my drivers' side motor mount is completely broken and the passenger side isn't doing too hot either. Stock factory rubber at 200,000 miles....not surprised. I ordered the replacement mounts from AM and now have a question on the install. I have the support bar from harbor freight, and the shop manual I have says I need an engine lifting bracket. I gathered this myself since I saw nowhere particularly secure to attach the hoist to when I looked at the motor. The shop manual has two part numbers (303-D088, and D93P-6001-A2). Two part question:

1) Do I need this and if so, where to get it?

2) Is there one for each side of the motor? It looks in the pictures as if the bracket bolts to the drivers' side head below the valve cover but I can't tell if there is one for each side.

Thanks a lot!

 

[99COBRA2881]

Use MMs K member install intructions. It will show you how to support the engine with the support brace.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/front_susp/MMKM-2r11.pdf

 

[leegro1015]

The drivers side head has a threaded hole near the front then i just took one of the bolts out where the A/C compressor attaches to the block as my other location on the passanger side. Then just tighten up the chains then get to work.

 

[pbeechner]

Use MMs K member install intructions. It will show you how to support the engine with the support brace.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/front_susp/MMKM-2r11.pdf

So I'm probably going to remove the alternator and attach the chains to the alternator mounting bolts. Seems like a straightforward way.

Unless I can figure out what size the threaded holes are on the driver's side head to buy bolts to attach the chains to.....

 

[JBird_Cobra]

May be a dumb question but according to my Haynes manual all you need to do is jack up the engine under the crankshaft damper?

I'm sure it's not the preferred method but that would work won't it? I'm considering changing my mounts out as well.

 

[jrgoffin]

You probably won't find the factory support bars (although having a connection at the Ford Romeo plant helps), they are very rare. The bolt size you are looking for is on the schematic...

 

[pbeechner]

You probably won't find the factory support bars (although having a connection at the Ford Romeo plant helps), they are very rare. The bolt size you are looking for is on the schematic...

Thanks!! I think I will use bolts on each head to attach the chains to and support the motor. If that doesn't work, I'll just support it by the alternator bolts.

Thanks guys!

 

[jrgoffin]

Thanks!! I think I will use bolts on each head to attach the chains to and support the motor. If that doesn't work, I'll just support it by the alternator bolts.

Thanks guys!

Glad I scored a set of the Ford lift bars a while back - they are gold for sure.

 

[shurur]

Glad I scored a set of the Ford lift bars a while back - they are gold for sure.

I'm Glad to see you're still posting in this forum!! ;-)

 

[soccerman002]

When I swapped k-members, I backed out the alternator bolts and used those as support points, never had an issue. While the k-member was out I put in new OEM engine mounts, didn't make sense not to since everything was so accessible.

 

[pbeechner]

When I swapped k-members, I backed out the alternator bolts and used those as support points, never had an issue. While the k-member was out I put in new OEM engine mounts, didn't make sense not to since everything was so accessible.

Did you remove the alternator completely?? Those two bottom bolts don't look particularly accessible otherwise. I'm worried about the strength of those bolts to raise the motor .5" but hopefully it will be fine.

 

[jrgoffin]

Glad I scored a set of the Ford lift bars a while back - they are gold for sure.

Once and a while, but try not to waste too much time here anymore!

 

[DSG2NV03]

I just supported the engine on a Harbor Freight support bar using idler pulley bolts. I have done this on my 03 and 96 with no ill effects.

 

[BlackVenom99]

I personally have used the lower alternator bolt location, I went and got a higher grade bolt(10.9 I think) to use for this process. Using this location goes into the block, which is strong and trust worthy. Please don't use bolt locations that go into a thin cast timing cover, I sure wouldn't trust my life on the strength of the timing cover.

Use both holes and use washers/spacers to make sure the bolt is tight with the chain.

 

[pbeechner]

Yeah I was thinking about getting some 10.9 bolts to use, anyone know the size and threads of those? I don't want to have to stop right after taking off the alternator to go to the hardware store.

 

[soccerman002]

I left the alternator in, just backed the bolts out enough to put a hook and chain around them. You'd really have to put a quick, precise, and extremely heavy load on those bolts for them to fail. No worries.

 

[soccerman002]

I made this from some 2x4's I had in the garage, and picked up some industrial chain and hooks from Lowe's. The popular Harbor Freight engine support wasn't in stock at my local store and I didn't feel like ordering and waiting for it. The engine didn't move an inch, will be using the same setup when I swap in a different k-member at some point down the road.

 

[mr.speaker]

You could try finding a set of Rotunda 303-D074.

I used to have a set of these, but they got lost in my cross country move .

 

[pbeechner]

Hey guys, is there a trick to getting to the rear nut on the passenger side mount with the alternator in the way? I'm also struggling to get to the top front nut on the driver's side mount. I have the engine raised about 1/2" and the k-member nuts off.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[BlackVenom99]

Alternator, Are you trying to get around the a/c compressor? I'd just pull the bolts out and slide it out of the way.