My intercooler lines and pump upgrades

keith89

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
1,479
Location
Easton, PA
no ideas?

Here's mine:
2012-06-03102231-1.jpg


Still needs to be cleaned up a bit.
I plan on removing the trunk carpet and making my own trunk floor with a cutout for the fill lid. I had to invert the lid handle to he inside of the tank for now so the trunk carpet sits flush.
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
funny you posted for updates as I just finished working alittle and was going to ask a question. I got her on jack stands in the garage, pulled the wheels off, drained the tank, removed the oem reservior and lines from it and thats really it. If I can tomorrow I'm going to drop the gas tank and remove the trunk mount tank. Once I have it out I'm going to redo the cap so it doesnt leak and really figure out how to mount it.

I got my E-Z coils in the mail today to make bends around the IRS without crushing the new lines. I ordered Goodyear 3/4" ID heater hose which I'm still waiting on. Tracking info says monday but i'm hoping I get lucky and get it by saturday.

I'm really trying to finish by next thursday so I can go to the track for the first time on friday but thats looking kinda hard right now....

My question is for those that have switched all the hose to 3/4" did you remove the hard lines mounted on the front of the engine and just route your new 3/4"?
 

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
Here's mine:


Still needs to be cleaned up a bit.
I plan on removing the trunk carpet and making my own trunk floor with a cutout for the fill lid. I had to invert the lid handle to he inside of the tank for now so the trunk carpet sits flush.

Is your return line on the other side of the tank?
Also what is that material you made a base out of or did you just drill holes in the pan and run bolts through to mount the pump?

See I like youre tank alittle better because its small and fits in the well. Anther bad thing about my tank is the inlet/outlet orfice is kinda small in diameter.
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
Ok here's my progress for today for those that care.

I got the tank dropped to remove the reservoir, removed my exhaust muffler back for replacement and disassembled the reservoir.A couple things that I see that I dont like is that my inlet/outlet on the tank is smaller than my pump which should restrict flow.
The really small exterior fitting is for the drain line. I'm going to use the one next to it for return and the one on the bottom for Feed. At least this is what im planning now...

Tomorrow I'm going to home depot to look for some fittings that I need and still waiting on my new 3/4" hose. I'm also planning on removing the oem hard 5/8 lines going to the intercooler since I'm planning on just running the 3/4" from the tank straight to the I/C and H/E.

Here's some pics:

170d1414.jpg

33d7331b.jpg

d225eb73.jpg

7fb5c086.jpg

d2f834b4.jpg
 
Last edited:

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
Looking good. Nice work. That pump and those larger fittings are going to do a much better job.
 

SVTDice

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,486
Location
Florida
I'm following this thread closely. Very nice work. By the way if you do decide to go with the killer chiller, You may want to either Delete the H/E or do a bypass valve so the H/E does not heat up the cold temp's from the outside air.

However you may want to just do these upgrades, Pump, Lines, Tank Etc. And see how your IAT2's do. They may turn out better then expected actually. I reckon the better flow will help ALOT. What fluid are you using by the way? Straight distilled water or what? You may want to look into Royal Purple Ice or Amsoil Dominator Coolant. Might help a bit. Unleashed beast did a review on it somewhere on here.


Anyways, Massive kudos! You're doing a great job! Keep us updated. I'd love to see how this all turns out.
 

keith89

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
1,479
Location
Easton, PA
Is your return line on the other side of the tank?
Also what is that material you made a base out of or did you just drill holes in the pan and run bolts through to mount the pump?

See I like youre tank alittle better because its small and fits in the well. Anther bad thing about my tank is the inlet/outlet orfice is kinda small in diameter.

Man your exhaust polish job turned out sick!:rockon:

My feed and return lines exit the spare tire well towards the front of the car. I found that there is a lot of room between the outside of the spare tire well and the IRS. The return line is on the right and the feed from the pump is on the left. I'll try to get better pictures this weekend. My subwoofer makes it hard to lift the carpet all the way up to see the back of the tank.

I used threaded rivet plates to mount the pump. It was easier than drilling holes like I did for the tank. I would seriously consider having a new tank made. The smaller fittings on the tank will hurt the flow.
 

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
Ok so i fully disassembled my tank, removing all the old small fittings which some were as small as 3/8 ID. I went to multiple hardware stores looking for brass fittings and this is what I come up with for my supply line which will be on the very bottom. Is it a bad idea to use that small filter in the inside of the tank fitting? I was thinking it would restrict flow alittle but not sure. Is it necessary to filter the fluid at all?
965d7345.jpg


What would be the best way to seal the cap on my tank? Previously I used Black RTV and screws. I plan on using bolts this time with washers and nuts on the inside as well as re-tapping them to the correct size. I was thinking about going to autozone and getting a self cut sheet of gasket maker and using alittle RTV with it. Anyone have any better ideas?
Heres a pic of the tank and cover base that needs to be sealed.
33f33257.jpg
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
I'm following this thread closely. Very nice work. By the way if you do decide to go with the killer chiller, You may want to either Delete the H/E or do a bypass valve so the H/E does not heat up the cold temp's from the outside air.

However you may want to just do these upgrades, Pump, Lines, Tank Etc. And see how your IAT2's do. They may turn out better then expected actually. I reckon the better flow will help ALOT. What fluid are you using by the way? Straight distilled water or what? You may want to look into Royal Purple Ice or Amsoil Dominator Coolant. Might help a bit. Unleashed beast did a review on it somewhere on here.


Anyways, Massive kudos! You're doing a great job! Keep us updated. I'd love to see how this all turns out.

when I do get a K/C I'm going to put in the bypass selector so I can use the H/E or bypass it. As far as now i'm doing these upgrades to see how much my IAT2's drop. Prior to this I was seeing IAT's 50* higher than ambient temps. Crusing on the freeway it was common for me to be sitting at 130ish* which is un-sat! I think my issues was my weak pump.

With using 3/4" line all the way from tank to I'C I'm hoping to see better temps. Also I plan on going from tank to I/C, I/C to H/E back to tank as well as removing the OEM 5/8" hard line in the front of the engine. I also am going to try to insulate the line up under the car as well depending on room. How are people insulating the line exactly?

I want to hit the track this upcoming Friday but I don't know if it's going to happen on not.....

I was previously running radiator fluid and water and plan on using the same thing for comparison purposes. After I see the results I may use something more efficient.
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
Man your exhaust polish job turned out sick!:rockon:

My feed and return lines exit the spare tire well towards the front of the car. I found that there is a lot of room between the outside of the spare tire well and the IRS. The return line is on the right and the feed from the pump is on the left. I'll try to get better pictures this weekend. My subwoofer makes it hard to lift the carpet all the way up to see the back of the tank.

I used threaded rivet plates to mount the pump. It was easier than drilling holes like I did for the tank. I would seriously consider having a new tank made. The smaller fittings on the tank will hurt the flow.

Yea the original installer cut hole to the rear of the trunk and I dont want to cut more holes so i'm planing on just working with what I have. I replaced the small fittings today so I'm hoping it works out good. The only small fitting I can't replace is the return hose. It's still somewhat small. Do you think that will effect flow with the return line back to the tank having a small inlet on the tank? the outlet to pump is a true 3/4" if not larger!

I really want to have a plate made that bolts into the trunk using the holes already made and then have the tank and pump mount to the plate. Just have to get someone to make the plate for me. I have some resources available just have to get it figured out.
 

SVTDice

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,486
Location
Florida
Well this is what I did. Go to Lowes or Home depot and get your self some Polyurthane or Rubber pipe insulation It should be around where all of the fittings and stuff are. They have all different sizes. I bought Polyurthane for some A/C Lines and it worked fantastic. However, The Rubber ones may work better for your application but they are a bit more pricey.

Just get the right I/D insulation, wrap it around the line and use some zip ties and secure the line. If I remember correctly it also has a sticky adheasive at the ends of the insulation to help with securing it. Don't go too crazy with the ZIP ties though, I learned that the hard way if you ever have to take it off.

But honestly, You're doing great! At your progress you probably will be done by Friday no problem!

:Edit: By the way, The insulation is kind of on the thick side. SO, You may not be able to use it everywhere you want too. Its going to add quite a bit of thickness. Just keep that in mind. But the stuff is on the cheap side. So its no real big deal if you don't use all of it.
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
I want to go from trunk tank to I/C to H/E back to the tank. Which on of these tubes are supply and return for fluid that way I dont get it wrong! Or does it even matter?

3968a1f2.jpg
 

SVTDice

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,486
Location
Florida
I just went out and checked my Cobra, The one on the Left is the feed and the one on the right is the return. Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
Do you have yours plumped OEM? From tank to heat exchanger, then to intercooler, then back to stock tank.
 

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
I got lucky and the lines came in early! I bought rubber hose for insulation. I can forsee it sucking bigtime routing that stuff under the car with the line......

So for an update I removed my front bumper, all I/C lines and hard aluminum OEM lines! Ready to start routing my new 3/4" line. Going to start from my engine and work back.

I do have another question though. I just want to make sure but the driver side H/E fitting being the highest point is feed and the passenger side being the lowest side is the return right?
 

SVTDice

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,486
Location
Florida
Hmm, If its going to be tough to run the line, you may have to skip insulation on some pieces to make it fit better. This is perfectly fine. Heater hose is pretty well insulated to begin with.

Now for your last question, I can't help you there. I'm not exactly sure I'd have to be there to look at it. Even though I'm not sure if I would be able to help, By the way I am running the stock OEM setup kind of. Besides my H/E, Fittings and larger tank, I'm in the stock setup. I'm changing that very soon though. Bigger lines and Jabsco pump.
 

SVT_Troy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
5,324
Location
Virginia
nope I removed all the oem hard line and so far it isnt to bad. It fit with insulation between the H/E with pretty much no problem. So far I ran the return line from the H/E back to the tank and the return from I/C to H/E. I have one more line to run which is from the tank to I/C input. Thats going to be the hardest line to run as room is hard to come by under the car now but i'm sure I'll figure out something. I'll snap a few pics for you.
 

SVTDice

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,486
Location
Florida
Nice! That insulation looks like its going to help alot actually. You do really good work. So how close do you reckon you are to finishing it all up?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top