my truck is stranded

sharkbite

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That sucks. I hope you figure it out. It'd be horrible to see that paint job ruined by some prick tenant.
 

runs2rch

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PearlBlue L said:
well i just pulled the bed back and pulled the pumps out. everything was hooked up fine so no hose was undone. next step i guess is to put my stock pumps back on the truck and see if it will start cause i dropped the pumps back in and hooked it all back up and check the fuel rail again and didnt have any pressure or fuel at all in the rail.

i checked all the fuses and relays too and everything was pushed down tight and the fuse wasnt blown.


if a pump was bad would you still hear them kick on when you turn the key forward??????????

Just because you can hear the pumps coming on dosn't mean they are actually sucking and getting any pressure. I would try the stock pumps. One other thing my dad has an HD and his truck was having the same problem. Turned out to be the whole dash wiring harness and guage cluster.
 

Scuba-Matt

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Did you try to reset the fuel reset breaker under the passengers side kick pannel inside the cab of the truck ? I know a lot of guys forget about that one
 
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AZ ERIK

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Boost-a-pump take a shit? I'm asuming you have the KB on. We has a similar issue with the way it would start then die. Tuned out if we cracked open the TB it's stay running. IAT is not plugged in and we're waiting on a new one. Sounds like a sensor went bad possibly. But here's a really stupid question have you tried putting 2 or 3 gallons of gas in it or verified it's not empty? Incase the fuel gauge crapped out? You should get a spray of gas from the Schrader valve.
 

PearlBlue L

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Fade 2 Black said:
Not if the relay doesn't work. I think there are two alike relays under the hood that you can swap and see it it will work.
hi/low relay and inertia are what your talking about. i allready switched them around and nothing happened
 

PearlBlue L

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TucsonPred said:
Boost-a-pump take a shit? I'm asuming you have the KB on. We has a similar issue with the way it would start then die. Tuned out if we cracked open the TB it's stay running. IAT is not plugged in and we're waiting on a new one. Sounds like a sensor went bad possibly. But here's a really stupid question have you tried putting 2 or 3 gallons of gas in it or verified it's not empty? Incase the fuel gauge crapped out? You should get a spray of gas from the Schrader valve.
dont have the boost a pump, just dual 255 pumps. when i pulled the pumps i verified fuel in the tank... fuel guage read almost half a tank and it had that much when i looked inside.
 

PearlBlue L

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THUNDER BOLT said:
Did you try to reset the fuel reset breaker under the passengers side kick pannel inside the cab of the truck ? I know a lot of guys forget about that one
your the first to mention this, so i'll be checking this out also.. gotta narrow this down
 
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Fade 2 Black

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If you still don't have fuel pressure then the sensor you spoke of earlier has to be the culprit or the circuit it's in making the pumps and pcm think you have sufficient pressure. You said you have no fuel coming out of the rail when the schrader is depressed right? You could possible run a straight wire to the pump connector to get it home, not the best solution I know but I'd rather have it broken at home then on the shoulder. Keep us posted.
 

Fade 2 Black

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This may not help much but it's out of the 2000 Ford CD ROM manual. It's the proceedure for diagnosing the code you have.

« DB -- Engine Fuel Temperature (EFT) Sensor»

DB2 DTC P0180, P0181, P0182 and P0183: VERIFY ELECTRICAL FAULT CONDITION BY SIMULATING OPPOSITE SIGNAL TO PCM

l Disconnect engine fuel temperature sensor.

l Access EFTA-V PID value.

l Install jumper across terminals at the vehicle harness connector.

l NOTE:
If a scan tool communication concern exists, remove jumper wire immediately and GO to «DB5».

Record new reading.

l Is the original reading of the EFTA-V PID with the harness disconnected greater than 4.5 volts or (-40ºC/-40ºF) and less than 0.21 volt or (135ºC/275 ºF) with the jumper installed?

Yes
KEY OFF. REPLACE EFTA sensor. REFER to Electronic Engine Controls, Section 303-14 in the Workshop Manual.

No
KEY OFF. FOR EFTA-V reading less than 4.54 volts with harness disconnected and jumper removed: GO to «DB3».

FOR DTC P0182: GO to «DB3».

FOR EFTA-V reading greater than 0.2 volt with harness disconnected and jumper installed: GO to «DB5».

FOR DTC P0183: GO to «DB5».
 

usaf_eagle

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you really need to put your stock pumps back in and see what happens.. i noticed you said that was your next step, but there was no update after that.. im putting my money on one of the pumps..
 

Fade 2 Black

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He said he could hear the pump run when the key was first turned on and they've been in there for 8 months. Not to say that the primary pump couldn't be going bad but my money is on the sensor, that isn't a very common code he got.
 

02Lightning629

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I had the same prob. My truck is stock except for cai. it did it after 2 long trips awhile back when the truck had about 35K now has about 45k. I don't have a solution, but the vid you show is the samething my truck did exactly. I messed with the maf and haven't had a prob since. I'm bettin on a sensor.
 

PearlBlue L

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Fade 2 Black said:
He said he could hear the pump run when the key was first turned on and they've been in there for 8 months. Not to say that the primary pump couldn't be going bad but my money is on the sensor, that isn't a very common code he got.
which sensor are you talking about again??
 

PearlBlue L

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Fade 2 Black said:
You could possible run a straight wire to the pump connector to get it home, not the best solution I know but I'd rather have it broken at home then on the shoulder. Keep us posted.
i have the truck at home in the garage allready thanks to slosvt
 

PearlBlue L

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svtred said:
yea the fuel temp sensor is almost like a fuel pressure sensor, if it thinks its too high it might shut off the pumps. maybe a wire fell off the pump. but the fuel temp sensor is inside the tank so id start there. maybe toss a new one in if ford sells it seperate, sometimes they dont.
all the wires were connected. where exactly is the sensor in the tank at? is it right above the pumps?
 

AZ ERIK

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Hey if you put your foot into the pedal, I mean just barely, will it stay running. (By barely I mean a little more than your foot resting on it.

I'd probably find one of the Gas temp sensors and just replace it anyway (Unless it's like $200 or something stupid) You've already got a code for it. Can you disconnect the fuel lines out of the tank and key one to see if fuel comes out of those lines? Visualluy check the whole run of the fule lines for kinks or them being crushed?
 

PearlBlue L

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TucsonPred said:
Hey if you put your foot into the pedal, I mean just barely, will it stay running. (By barely I mean a little more than your foot resting on it.
wont stay running at all
 

PearlBlue L

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once i had the old fuel fliter off i blew through it and the gas looked black/dark brown from the filter. i had almost 40,000 miles on that one filter. thinking it could of clogged up a little in the line somewhere, but how would i unclog the fuel line???
 

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