Venom525RWHP said:
:idea: demolition derby :lol1:
Need advice.
- Thread starter Venom525RWHP
- Start date
:idea: demolition derby :lol1:
SKMCOBRA said:
So I take it you've never seen school buses on an oval or figure eight either? :-D
ac427cobra said:
I used to run -1/16 in the rear before but now with the wing it is set at 0. She is still pushing into the corners so I wanted to try going +. Won't that help understeer?
Back in 03 I could not afford a decent coilover setup so I made a few caculations and desided to cut the stock springs. 1.5 Coil removed in the front and 1 coil removed in the rear. Then I use UHMW spacers in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 thickness to get the rideheight and fix the corner weights. I also have a set of cut vert springs for the rear.
So far it is working fine for me, it is just a lot of work.:burnout:
That stationwagen is getting a set of heads and a new cam for this Friday! Will he keep up? Uhmmm.... I don't think so.
Hill climb maybe, but I am gonna have to to the wife about the other one...lol
Hill climb maybe, but I am gonna have to to the wife about the other one...lol
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Venom525RWHP said:
You are correct in the theory that more toe-in in the rear will understeer more, but having said that I don't like what "toe out" does to the turn in with an IRS. Granted you and I are doing two different things with our cars.
If you were at 1/16" in for rear toe and you went to "0" rear toe it should improve your understeer condition ever so slightly.
Some other things you could try:
The basics:
A tick less pressure in the front tires
a tick more pressure in the rear tires
widen the front track (wheel spacers)
soften front sway bar (if yours is adjustable?)
more front toe out (just don't go overboard)
softer compound front tire
harder compound rear tire
Wider front wheel
Now for a little driver mod. I have no idea if this applies to you or not, but here is some food for thought for you and anyone else wanting to know:
As you know, a Cobra is a front end heavy beast. I have seen guys (even driving instructors!) try to yank on the wheel at turn-in and an instant push is generated. Try turning in just a tick sooner being a little more gentle and gradual with the turn-in. Try to make it a more fluid motion.
FWIW
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
ac427cobra said:
Thanks for the input. :coolman:
I personally don't like the idea of cutting springs as they are developed for a specific spring rate and cutting them changes it. However if you do cut them, they should be cut only by one complete coil, not one and a half. It is called "clocking" and the springs are designed to work properly only when the pig tails reside over one another. Does that make sense? If they don't, your spring rates would be unpredictable, epecially on progressive springs. At least this is what I have read.Venom525RWHP said:
SKMCOBRA said:
Interesting, I will look into it.
I get no audio!
Ok, got it now!! :-D
Watching!!
Very cool!epper: Congrats!! :beer:
You smoked 'em!!! :thumbsup:
Ok, got it now!! :-D
Watching!!
Very cool!
epper: Congrats!! :beer: You smoked 'em!!! :thumbsup:
:beer: :thumbsup:
SKMCOBRA said:
The 03/04s have linear springs. The "clocking" depends on the application and what kind of isolator you are using. Some isolators make up the difference in some applications, and some don't. I don't think it matters in the front, in the rear of the IRS it can be an issue on the top of the spring if care isn't taken when they are reinstalled.
It seems my posi is shot again!
I was thinking of going 4:10 when we rebuild the diff next week.
What do you guys think, 4:10s - good or bad?
I was thinking of going 4:10 when we rebuild the diff next week.
What do you guys think, 4:10s - good or bad?
Venom525RWHP said:
The stock Ford posi unit is not bad for the street, but it sucks once you start driving it hard on track. Do you have a diff cooler?
4:10 are one of the best upgrades for your car. When you put the gears in, also install a Torsen T-2R posi unit. Your troubles will be over!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
ac427cobra said:
Ever since i put in the torsen tr2 i have never had a problem since, when getting on the gas hard exiting a turn the one wheel peels are no longer existant.
T2-R FTW!!!:beer:
For now I am going with the rebuilt kit (I got another one for free) and the 4:10's. I did my homework and I agree, the T2R is definitely the best choice out there - but I had to buy the kids a PS3 instead.:cuss: ...Just kidding with the smilie, they are are good kids and deserves it.;-)
Hopefully I can pull of the next 1000 to win and get this diff!!
I know the 4:10 will help me with atleast 2 corners on Mosport and with T4 exit on Dalaware it will put the RPM's at around 4500 in 3rd. This should make the Cobra pull real hard through the front straight.
But what about off the line and all round drivability?
Hopefully I can pull of the next 1000 to win and get this diff!!
I know the 4:10 will help me with atleast 2 corners on Mosport and with T4 exit on Dalaware it will put the RPM's at around 4500 in 3rd. This should make the Cobra pull real hard through the front straight.
But what about off the line and all round drivability?
Off the line you will need to feather the throttle. You will have less clutch wear in city driving and you will not have to shift as much. On the freeway you will be doing more revs and when passing you will not need to downshift in most cases.
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