Venom525RWHP said:Dragracing, Solosprint open track, Autocrossing, Drifting and Ovals! If I missed anything let me know and I will try it...:beer:
:idea: demolition derby :lol1:
Venom525RWHP said:Dragracing, Solosprint open track, Autocrossing, Drifting and Ovals! If I missed anything let me know and I will try it...:beer:
SKMCOBRA said:Station wagons racing on an oval. That is awesome!
ac427cobra said:You could even go to +1.5 on the LF and +.5 on the left rear. I don't think that will affect your hole shot much?
I'd also toe in your IRS 1/16" not out! :idea:
Do you have coil-overs?
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
Venom525RWHP said:I used to run -1/16 in the rear before but now with the wing it is set at 0. She is still pushing into the corners so I wanted to try going +. Won't that help understeer?
ac427cobra said:You are correct in the theory that more toe-in in the rear will understeer more, but having said that I don't like what "toe out" does to the turn in with an IRS. Granted you and I are doing two different things with our cars.
If you were at 1/16" in for rear toe and you went to "0" rear toe it should improve your understeer condition ever so slightly.
Some other things you could try:
The basics:
A tick less pressure in the front tires
a tick more pressure in the rear tires
widen the front track (wheel spacers)
soften front sway bar (if yours is adjustable?)
more front toe out (just don't go overboard)
softer compound front tire
harder compound rear tire
Wider front wheel
Now for a little driver mod. I have no idea if this applies to you or not, but here is some food for thought for you and anyone else wanting to know:
As you know, a Cobra is a front end heavy beast. I have seen guys (even driving instructors!) try to yank on the wheel at turn-in and an instant push is generated. Try turning in just a tick sooner being a little more gentle and gradual with the turn-in. Try to make it a more fluid motion.
FWIW
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
I personally don't like the idea of cutting springs as they are developed for a specific spring rate and cutting them changes it. However if you do cut them, they should be cut only by one complete coil, not one and a half. It is called "clocking" and the springs are designed to work properly only when the pig tails reside over one another. Does that make sense? If they don't, your spring rates would be unpredictable, epecially on progressive springs. At least this is what I have read.Venom525RWHP said:I used to run -1/16 in the rear before but now with the wing it is set at 0. She is still pushing into the corners so I wanted to try going +. Won't that help understeer?
Back in 03 I could not afford a decent coilover setup so I made a few caculations and desided to cut the stock springs. 1.5 Coil removed in the front and 1 coil removed in the rear. Then I use UHMW spacers in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 thickness to get the rideheight and fix the corner weights. I also have a set of cut vert springs for the rear.
So far it is working fine for me, it is just a lot of work.:burnout:
SKMCOBRA said:I personally don't like the idea of cutting springs as they are developed for a specific spring rate and cutting them changes it. However if you do cut them, they should be cut only by one complete coil, not one and a half. It is called "clocking" and the springs are designed to work properly only when the pig tails reside over one another. Does that make sense? If they don't, your spring rates would be unpredictable, epecially on progressive springs. At least this is what I have read.
SKMCOBRA said:I personally don't like the idea of cutting springs as they are developed for a specific spring rate and cutting them changes it. However if you do cut them, they should be cut only by one complete coil, not one and a half. It is called "clocking" and the springs are designed to work properly only when the pig tails reside over one another. Does that make sense? If they don't, your spring rates would be unpredictable, epecially on progressive springs. At least this is what I have read.
Venom525RWHP said:It seems my posi is shot again!
I was thinking of going 4:10 when we rebuild the diff next week.
What do you guys think, 4:10s - good or bad?
ac427cobra said:The stock Ford posi unit is not bad for the street, but it sucks once you start driving it hard on track. Do you have a diff cooler?
4:10 are one of the best upgrades for your car. When you put the gears in, also install a Torsen T-2R posi unit. Your troubles will be over!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer: