Need Some Help With Catalytic Bolts

Yellow03snake

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Spray them with penetrating oil and let them sit.

I think Ford torqued them to 300ft lbs

Sometimes they will break loose if the motor is hot but, you'll burn yourself.

You will need at least 2 ft of extensions for the top passenger nut too.
 

Back N Black

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300ftlbs!!! Good lord! WTF! I guess I'll let them sit and then not worry about busting them off with a breaker bar.

I've got plenty of extension for the outboard bolts, any insight on getting leverage on the inboard bolts?
 

Squamishcoyote

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I don't know what all the fuss is about, me and my friend just used some Moovit and got them off from underneath the car, jack stands not a lift
 

Back N Black

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I don't know what all the fuss is about, me and my friend just used some Moovit and got them off from underneath the car, jack stands not a lift


Then come on down and show me how it's done.

Went ahead and just installed the GT500s and the Borla over the axle pipes. I'll come back in a couple of weeks and attack the cats.

I'll soak them multiple time overnight with PB Blaster and put a breaker bar on them. I was just worried as I tend to split sockets when I use the breaker bar.
 

mhyjek

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I did the cat deletes which I took off a day later you. I used two feet or so extension with PB blaster and an impact wrench came off like butter. Tools are very important! I remember using a have missing sears set when I was a kid and stripping bolts and busting knuckles. Now as an adult I invest in proper equipment and makes life way easier!
 

mikestoyz

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you need a swivel fairly close to the socket or it will strip the one you have to get from under the hood. Tricky part is stopping it from swiveling before you get the socket on the nut.

Breaker bar or pipe on the end of your socket wrench. Mine were warm, but not super hot. PB blaster.
 

Quesplosive

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Yea i was just about to make a thread about this. I tried to change mines out and gave up due to not wanting to strip it. Ill soak it with WD-40 and use a impact tomorrow and hopefully that will do it. Is pb blaster better than WD-40?

I don't know what all the fuss is about, me and my friend just used some Moovit and got them off from underneath the car, jack stands not a lift

What tools did you use to get the bolt that you are supposed to get from the top? :shrug:
 

Blazer707@TBR

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Yea i was just about to make a thread about this. I tried to change mines out and gave up due to not wanting to strip it. Ill soak it with WD-40 and use a impact tomorrow and hopefully that will do it. Is pb blaster better than WD-40?



What tools did you use to get the bolt that you are supposed to get from the top? :shrug:

I used my long reducing 1/2 to 3/8 impact extension and got it from the top.

-Thomas

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

Yellow03snake

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Yea i was just about to make a thread about this. I tried to change mines out and gave up due to not wanting to strip it. Ill soak it with WD-40 and use a impact tomorrow and hopefully that will do it. Is pb blaster better than WD-40?



What tools did you use to get the bolt that you are supposed to get from the top? :shrug:

PB blaster penetrates, wd-40 just displaces water, but wd should work regardless,

I used antiseeze on reassemble as well :beer:

It's a 15 min job once those damn things bust loose!
 

Back N Black

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I was too gentle with it. Was worried about snapping the bolt.

A little blue painters tape on a swivel will hold it straight until you need it to swivel. Good little trick.

I know it's an easy job once those bolts are out. I did it on my 2008. The 2011 seems much tighter.
 

KidSmitty

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Just did mine a few hours ago. Blaster and swivel with 2 foot of extension. It's a knuckle buster for sure. These things are torqued!!
What I learned:
1) don't take the nuts completely off.
2) support exhaust at h-pipe with jack.
3) remove o2 and clamps.
4) remove nuts from anterior cat then remove cat/down pipe.

If you remove nuts from anterior cat fisrt. the exhaust will drop while your removing clamps. Don't ask me how know.
 

Yellow03snake

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I was too gentle with it. Was worried about snapping the bolt.

A little blue painters tape on a swivel will hold it straight until you need it to swivel. Good little trick.

I know it's an easy job once those bolts are out. I did it on my 2008. The 2011 seems much tighter.

Electrical tape works good too! :beer:

Ya, I think King Kong works on the exhaust line at the factory!
 

F2kmech

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PB blaster penetrates, wd-40 just displaces water, but wd should work regardless,

I used antiseeze on reassemble as well :beer:

It's a 15 min job once those damn things bust loose!

WD-40 has a new penetrating version that works very well. I used it a couple times instead of PB.
 

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