Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)

[tomshep]

You need to take your parts to an engine shop and have everything inspected. It is hard to tell, but the rod bearings look like they were walking in the rods, which they shouldn't be. I can't see this being a fuel issue or your short drives causing this. Personally, even though this had a tune I would get Ford involved. Even though you pulled the motor they might be interested in seeing what happened and may determine it was their fault and cover it. I can't see this failure as your fault.

That being said, I believe strongly in you play, you pay.

Tom

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Sean looks like you did a really good job with the teardown, Just from the pictures it looks like I would go ahead and replace the rod bearings/ main bearings and anything else you see scored. Reassemble and go over all measurements like connecting rod to crank side clearance and crankshaft end play.

 

[darreng505]

This is an interesting thread. In part because there are so few catastrophic roadrunner failures. Right?

At least there don't seem to be many.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

This is an interesting thread. In part because there are so few catastrophic roadrunner failures. Right?

At least there don't seem to be many.

Ive only seen 2 on stock cars. Cylinder 8 issue on a boss and another boss that lost a main bearing similiar to this one.

 

[Dizzyscure1]

Ive only seen 2 on stock cars. Cylinder 8 issue on a boss and another boss that lost a main bearing similiar to this one.

Correct,

 

[ford20]

Just a note on your tool choice...that is NOT the correct balancer removal tool. By using a conventional 3 jaw puller, you grab the outer pulley ring that is tied to the inner hub only by elastomeric rubber. This puts a lot of force on the rubber ring and may cause it to tear. Check carefully to make sure you didn't hurt the OE balancer.If you look, there are 3 notches on the arms to locate the correct puller tool (same one for DSM / Chrysler engines).Good luck with your Boss. Hope you find the issue. It sucks when you have a failure but don't have a definite cause that you can cure and make sure the problem doesn't come back.-Tim

To be honest, I am thinking that it might have been the wrong one only because it didn't fit inside the balancer to grab it by the inside tabs of the balancer that are there. Being as that I am was going to remove the OE one with an ATI Super Damper so if I damaged the balancer no harm no foul right? Are you talking about the rubber ring on the timing cover that might have been damaged?

You need to take your parts to an engine shop and have everything inspected. It is hard to tell, but the rod bearings look like they were walking in the rods, which they shouldn't be. I can't see this being a fuel issue or your short drives causing this. Personally, even though this had a tune I would get Ford involved. Even though you pulled the motor they might be interested in seeing what happened and may determine it was their fault and cover it. I can't see this failure as your fault.That being said, I believe strongly in you play, you pay.Tom

Thanks for the advice Tom! I am thinking that everything will be double checked by RGR but just in case I plan to tell ask them about that as well as I have had numerous people tell me to get everything double checked to make sure the block is still good as well as the crank and mains. Right now I am still in the quoting phase although it has been some time. Since I have all winter to get the parts built I am not really pressed for time though. I'm sure Ford would like to see the parts though as I have heard that they are very particular about the Road Runner when things go wrong.

Sean looks like you did a really good job with the teardown, Just from the pictures it looks like I would go ahead and replace the rod bearings/ main bearings and anything else you see scored. Reassemble and go over all measurements like connecting rod to crank side clearance and crankshaft end play.

Thanks Thomas! As far as what is scored it would probably be easier to point out what isn't scored lol. That being said I plan on opening up the bore to a 3.700 size and go from there. The only thing that really concerns me (scoring wise) are the cam journals since they are deep enough to catch a fingernail. I'm not certain how they are going to machine those but Aaron said that Rich is pretty good at doing this sort of stuff. I still have to check to see if the heads are warped though. Maybe cut some holes in a piece of plywood so I can put the spark plug tubes in there to get it to lay flat so I can figure it out.

This is an interesting thread. In part because there are so few catastrophic roadrunner failures. Right?At least there don't seem to be many.

I don't know how many but I know there were a few roadrunners who have been replaced by Ford. Maybe 4 or 5 that I can think of off the top of my head. Speaking of which, does anyone know if these cracks (for lack of a better term) are normal? I found them on 2 place on both of the phasers when I was cleaning up some parts.

 

[ford20]

Has anyone seen anything like that before? I keep thinking that those aren't supposed to look like that but I just want to make sure.

Thanks

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

That is caused by the method used to manufacture that plate. It was stamped out of sheet stock. That is a result of the die clearance. I believe the dots on the sprocket teeth are for dampening harmonics.

 

[ford20]

That is caused by the method used to manufacture that plate. It was stamped out of sheet stock. That is a result of the die clearance. I believe the dots on the sprocket teeth are for dampening harmonics.

If I am understanding you correctly that seems to just be a characteristic of the casting?

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

It is a relic of the method used to produce the part. I would not worry about it. The way the part is being used, it will not affect the structural integrity of the system. Punching it out of flat plate is the cheapest method for making millions of those parts. If it was a stressed component, that would not be the best method for producing it. For instance, you would not want to make a connecting rod that way, as those striations on the edges would lead to stress fractures due to loading cycles and the part would fail fairly quickly.

 

[ford20]

I see what you are saying now. It seems to make sense in my head too haha. Either way I plan on replacing them but I figured I would ask since I was having VCT issues before the engine blew.

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

The replacements will more than likely look the same. If you are concerned, you could hit the edge on a belt sander to remove the stress risers. Look up polishing connecting rods to get an idea. Good luck with your build.

 

[ford20]

The replacements will more than likely look the same. If you are concerned, you could hit the edge on a belt sander to remove the stress risers. Look up polishing connecting rods to get an idea. Good luck with your build.

Awesome man, thanks for the help!!

 

[ford20]

What are you guys using to remove the dowels form the block?

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

Channel locks

 

[ford20]

Channel locks

Awesome, thanks Aaron!

 

[ford20]

I ordered a whole bunch of stuff for the Black Friday specials that have been going on to try and help alleviate the cost of the build. Parts have been trickeling in and I have been gathering them in the garage for now. Considering it has been fairly cold and the garage isn’t heated I haven’t been able to put away the parts like I have wanted to so the garage is really starting to get pretty crowded.


Anyway, I picked up the following parts:

• 2013 GT500 Cooling Fan – Part# M-8C607-MSVT
• Aeroforce Interceptor Single Gauge – Part# CN101
• Aeroforce Black Bezel –Part# AF-BEZEL-BLACK
• Aeroforce Black Boss 302 Gauge Face – Part# AF-LOGO-BOSS302
• Aeroforce 5V regulator kit – Part# AF-SENS010
• BMR K-Member - Part #KM018
• BMR Tubular A-Arms – Part # AA021
• BMR Radiator Support – Part # RS003
• Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 7/8ths – Part# 11412400 Supersedes Part #60-41-188
• McLeod RST Clutch with Lightweight Steel flywheel Package – JPC Racing Part # 1124
• Moroso Race Oil Pan – Part # 20572
• Oil Pan Gasket – Part# BR3Z-6710-A
• Oil Pickup Tube – Part# BR3Z-6622-A
• Oil Pump – Part# BR3Z-6600-A
• Roush Vent Pod – Part# 404470
• TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears – JPC Racing Part # 1760 (It may be the same as TSS’s but I couldn’t find a part number on their website)

I got sorta bored just doing nothing so I went out and grabbed the Gauge bezel off of the car so I can put in the Roush vent pod and drop in the Aeroforce gauge to see what it looks like.

I was trying to keep it somewhat sleeper where if you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t really notice it in there. I may take the black gauge face that came with it and remove the Aeroforce logo and put a Red Boss 302 logo in that one and see what it looks like.


First Post updated with a Parts List

 

[ford20]

Here are some pics of the Moroso Race Pan since it is such a work of art. I have seen a lot of Boss 302 guys running the Moroso Race Pan as well as the Canton unit (In fact that is what Kenny Brown uses on his line of cars). When asking about it I just kept getting the same answer about the Moroso Race Pan. The internal baffling and trap door setup works to keep the oil where it should be and will prevent any oil starvation issues when braking and in mid turn. It also has a bung on it for an oil temperature sensor which is an excellent tool to have for when you are going around the track to keep an eye on things and just a great idea in general. You will need the 5V regulator to run it with the Aeroforce gauge though so don't forget to either buy the one Aeroforce sells or makeone yourself. I just have to figure out which oil temperature sensor to get and get it all wired to the Aeroforce gauge. I believe Aerofroce has one but I will email them after the holiday and see if that is what I should be using.

It is supposed to be beautiful out this weekend so I plan on getting the BMR pieces installed as well as clean up a lot of the items in the garage and putting them in bins for storage until it comes time to re assemble the engine.

Speaking of which I started to get things finalized with the gentleman at JPC regarding the build of the shortblock. I will be using a 2013 block in which they will be using the Darton Hat Style Sleeves with an offset ground crank creating approximately 326CI (so much for the 302 in Boss 302 lol). Internals will be custom Diamond Pistons, Total Seal Rings AP finish, Manley Lightweight I beam rods, King HP Series Mains, Clevite Rod Bearings, and ARP Hardware along with Teflon Skirt coating on the Pistons. I will keep the stock compression ratio as I plan to run it on pump gas until I can find a reliable place for E85. I just put down the deposit to get started on the pistons so I will be working pretty much every day for the foreseeable future in order to get everything completed. I am hoping to have everything done before Carlisle in June but funding will be the deciding factor in whether or not that will actually happen. If not it's ok no biggy but it would be kind of nice.


Sean

 

[darreng505]

Good stuff Sean. That's quite a list! I have many of those parts myself. I also have the moroso race pan ready to go on (aluminum version). Picked up the moroso water reservoir too. Nice piece. And gives the engine compartment a final race worthy look to it.

Keep us posted as usual, on this immense project of yours. It's quite an accomplishment!

 

[ford20]

Good stuff Sean. That's quite a list! I have many of those parts myself. I also have the moroso race pan ready to go on (aluminum version). Picked up the moroso water reservoir too. Nice piece. And gives the engine compartment a final race worthy look to it.

Keep us posted as usual, on this immense project of yours. It's quite an accomplishment!

I'm glad to see that I am on the right path then if we are sharing some similar parts so far.