Overheating and 2750 RPM max

[0silversnake3]

Here is a pic I took at the gas station right before it started overheating. The car looked better than I expected when I got there. I got the price down to $14,448 plus tax. They had the car on the lot since November, in Detroit, and no one had been there to drive it. The price was really good I thought, but since this overheating issue it has scared me a little. It has CAI and magnaflow exhaust as the only mods.

I want the car, but I want the overheating to go away, or not be anything major. You know?? I mean, for the price I got it for, I would be willing to pay to replace heads or pistons I think right???


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[0silversnake3]

ABS light shouldn't be on

I’ve read that more than likely this is just a sensor that needs replacing. I’m not too concerned with this one, UNLESS you have some other knowledge on what this could be.


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[hotcobra03]

@14,400..I would think this car has an issue,

most likely it was modded and returned back..

if you aren't mechanical inclined, run

basic head repair will be thousands..

doing my own work..1st time..took both off and sent to shop..

after repair and supplys..1500 to complete..

2nd was complete drivers head..no longer available..

list was 2grand on head..ford sold them at 1100..add supplys..was 2 grand to fix..

the radiator also is no longer available..cheap fix with 3 core radiator..200 repair..

it can still be a good deal..it can be something small causing this problem..

problem is finding a good mechanic even at the dealers..that knows these cars..

I be asking around for a scanner of tuner to bring with you and scan this car..

this site still has enough traffic to get response back fast while your there..

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/svt_documents.htm

scroll down..03 manual..smaller version works on cell..
go to abs section..it will tell what abs codes are and help you find problem.

used cars are as is..you may not be able to get them to fix it..

 

[0silversnake3]

@14,400..I would think this car has an issue,

most likely it was modded and returned back..

if you aren't mechanical inclined, run

basic head repair will be thousands..

doing my own work..1st time..took both off and sent to shop..

after repair and supplys..1500 to complete..

2nd was complete drivers head..no longer available..

list was 2grand on head..ford sold them at 1100..add supplys..was 2 grand to fix..

the radiator also is no longer available..cheap fix with 3 core radiator..200 repair..

it can still be a good deal..it can be something small causing this problem..

problem is finding a good mechanic even at the dealers..that knows these cars..

I be asking around for a scanner of tuner to bring with you and scan this car..

this site still has enough traffic to get response back fast while your there..

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/svt_documents.htm

scroll down..03 manual..smaller version works on cell..
go to abs section..it will tell what abs codes are and help you find problem.

used cars are as is..you may not be able to get them to fix it..

Before I left there Saturday night to fly back to TN, they told me I could have my money back. ‍‍ but they were closed and there was no one there to get to the money.


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[0silversnake3]

Just got off the phone the “Magical Touch” lube service that performed the radiator flush and clean on this car not too long ago. The guy told me he hooks it up to a machine and it does it all by itself. Will this work or do you guys think this machine could have let air into the system???


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[me32]

The car is priced that low for a reason. If there selling you the car at $14,400 they more than likely got it for 10k or so and did the minimal repairs to sell it. I personally would take my money back a keep looking. Too many unknowns without having a professional that knows 03-04 cobras look at it.

 

[hotcobra03]

Just got off the phone the “Magical Touch” lube service that performed the radiator flush and clean on this car not too long ago. The guy told me he hooks it up to a machine and it does it all by itself. Will this work or do you guys think this machine could have let air into the system???


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here is my take on air in the system..

1st..there will always be air in the system..

stock system holds 4 gallons..

object is to bleed air so you can get 4 gallons in..

with location of tstat and all that plumbing..air gets trapped there.

I found some have drilled a tiny hole in tstat to help pass the air bubble.

when filling after tstat change..I would want to put 3 gallons in before I'm OK with running it..

the burp and fill..I had tried the funnel part,during my issue..ithe wouldn't work, being once my engine came up to temperature,it would keep climbing,causing boiling which just made it shoot out like wild..

than if I did read it right..it says to not fill tank to top,and install cap..than go to burp plug and fill..

why leave a giant air pocket in tank?

for me..

I fill at tank till it's full,leave cap off ,
than open plug,
I fill at plug till it runs out tank.
put on cap.

fill at plug till full..install plug hand tight..
start car, idle till fan kicks on..shut off..let cool..

remove cap from tank..fill and with cap off open burp plug,fill till it comes out tank..put on cap,fill at plug, install hand tight.start car..

run till fan kicks..shut off..cool

repeat 3rd time should be enough..

note..I have found that even if tank is at full level..it may take a lot
of coolant still if it has air still..

you would think the tank would show low..but not this car..

honestly..getting air out shouldn't be hard..read a lot of problems

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

the machine to flush and fill shouldnt leave air pockets if done correctly.

I would be leery of this car though without checking it out more thoroughly

 

[MalcolmV8]

From everything described I think you should be walking away. Someone who knows these cars very well needs to look it over properly or you're possibly just buying a very expensive headache.
You're out some travel funds and misc costs which is a lot better than the many thousands you'll be out if that motor is hurt.

 

[0silversnake3]

Ok thanks for the input guys. I appreciate you all taking time to share your thoughts and advice.


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[0silversnake3]

Just got off the phone with the dealership. The mechanic took it out for a 20 minute drive, no issues. Then the sales guy took it out for 15 mile trip, and sent me video of higher rpms and perfect temperature on the gauge. Go for it or not?????? $14,400 was price.


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[hotcobra03]

Just got off the phone with the dealership. The mechanic took it out for a 20 minute drive, no issues. Then the sales guy took it out for 15 mile trip, and sent me video of higher rpms and perfect temperature on the gauge. Go for it or not?????? $14,400 was price.


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it' your money..

I say go drive it..

as for temp guage..it sits straight up..170deg to 228 degree before it starts to move towards right..

odometer can be set to read temp in numbers..

 

[0silversnake3]

it' your money..

I say go drive it..

as for temp guage..it sits straight up..170deg to 228 degree before it starts to move towards right..

odometer can be set to read temp in numbers..

I can’t just go back and drive it. The car is in Detroit Michigan. I’m in TN.

I was just there over the weekend when we found the overheating issue. They are trying to “make it right” with me. But that still doesn’t guarantee no issues once I get it here to drive.


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[MalcolmV8]

Sounds like it had air in the cooling system and they got it figured out.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I think it would be worth the money to arrange to have a compression test done for peace of mind. I can’t imagine it being more than 2-3 hours labor including drive time to and from the shop

 

[SVT_Troy]

Have a compression and leak down test done. The leak down test is the more important test. If not odds on you posting here within a couple months looking for help are high.

Your taking a gamble on improper bleeding being the only issue and an issue that didn’t cause overheating damage like blown head gaskets , cylinder damage, etc.

Like said a few times already, it’s your money. Good luck they are fun cars!


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[SVT_Troy]

Wonder if there is a local member that wouldn’t mind giving you a hand looking her over. I’ve done it for an out of state buyer before


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[hotcobra03]

Wonder if there is a local member that wouldn’t mind giving you a hand looking her over. I’ve done it for an out of state buyer before


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how much were you allowed to touch..

can't see a dealer letting me in,running car,,pull plugs to do tests..on thier lot..or taking it on a real drive..

I could see letting me walk around,listen,look for things done, or not done..

 

[0silversnake3]

Have a compression and leak down test done. The leak down test is the more important test. If not odds on you posting here within a couple months looking for help are high.

Your taking a gamble on improper bleeding being the only issue and an issue that didn’t cause overheating damage like blown head gaskets , cylinder damage, etc.

Like said a few times already, it’s your money. Good luck they are fun cars!


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They are giving me a 4 month 4,000 warranty now as well. Im going to to go with it. If I have to spend money I’m fine with that too. Thanks!


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[SVT_Troy]

They are giving me a 4 month 4,000 warranty now as well. Im going to to go with it. If I have to spend money I’m fine with that too. Thanks!


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Sounds good, does that mean the car has to come back to their dealership or will they pay for it to be fixed at a local to you dealer/shop they both parties agree on?

how much were you allowed to touch..

can't see a dealer letting me in,running car,,pull plugs to do tests..on thier lot..or taking it on a real drive..

I could see letting me walk around,listen,look for things done, or not done..

It was a private owner, I didn’t pull things apart but I gave it a really good look around. It ended up not being the car the buyer was looking for.


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