nice good job
Ported my blower myself. Results inside.
- Thread starter 94-98 Trans Am
- Start date
SVTkel said:94-98 Trans Am said:
Its very easy. Pull the bolts out of the front of the case. I tapped the front slightly and the snout came off with some pulling (it sits in dowels). Watch out for the blower oil, because here it comes. Now that the snout is off the rotor assembly will need to be tapped out. I lightly tapped it with a hammer (use a screw driver carefully to pry around evenly if needed). Once the rotor assembly is loose it will pull right out. Keep it straight when pulling out just to be safe.
You will see bearings pressed into the back of the blower case. I would clean them and regrease them with a high temp grease before reassembly.
Don't forget to use black rtv (not to much, just enough) on the snout to rotor assembly. Rotor to case I did not use any rtv. Fill the blower with oil. You can use blower oil, but I used castrol syntec motor oil (full snythetic 10w-30). It took about a half quart. Pull the fill plug and fill with the blower tilting straight up. I put the blower on its base, and watched it overflow. I knew it was full and level to the fill plug so installed the plug securely. Make sure the plug has its o-ring on it still.
Hope this clears it up for you. I torqued the blower case bolts to 19ftlbs. Its probably the wrong torque spec, but so is drilling your blower case with hole saws.
Good Luck,
Corey
twinscrewIV said:
My cat likes the metal shavings all over the floor. My brother is ls1 for life, so no cobras for him. He thought the gain was impressive, but his auto ls1 goes fast for the dollars in it.
94-98 Trans Am said:I torqued the blower case bolts to 19ftlbs. Its probably the wrong torque spec, but so is drilling your blower case with hole saws.
Good Luck,
Corey
:rockon: if its not hacked i dont wanna see it, let me know when you wanna pull it off again, maybee we will just put it in my garage and heat it up.
and we can really open it up with the air tool and the carbide cutting bits.
i would also reccomend plugging or taping off the bearings in the back of the case with tape or something so the metal shavings dont go in there, we washed out the blower in a parts washer to get all the metal shavings out.
cory we can do it at the shop to next time you want to pull it off at least there is more room there.
how long dose it take you to pull the blower off???
congrats man, one small step for car enthusists on a budget Keep the work up! And i cant wait to hear your #'s on the silly gas.
Keep the work up! And i cant wait to hear your #'s on the silly gas.
mattmoto441 said:
few hours at most... a newb = 4-5 hours, average experience = 2-3
94-98 Trans Am said:SVTkel said:Its very easy. Pull the bolts out of the front of the case. I tapped the front slightly and the snout came off with some pulling (it sits in dowels). Watch out for the blower oil, because here it comes. Now that the snout is off the rotor assembly will need to be tapped out. I lightly tapped it with a hammer (use a screw driver carefully to pry around evenly if needed). Once the rotor assembly is loose it will pull right out. Keep it straight when pulling out just to be safe.
You will see bearings pressed into the back of the blower case. I would clean them and regrease them with a high temp grease before reassembly.
Don't forget to use black rtv (not to much, just enough) on the snout to rotor assembly. Rotor to case I did not use any rtv. Fill the blower with oil. You can use blower oil, but I used castrol syntec motor oil (full snythetic 10w-30). It took about a half quart. Pull the fill plug and fill with the blower tilting straight up. I put the blower on its base, and watched it overflow. I knew it was full and level to the fill plug so installed the plug securely. Make sure the plug has its o-ring on it still.
Hope this clears it up for you. I torqued the blower case bolts to 19ftlbs. Its probably the wrong torque spec, but so is drilling your blower case with hole saws.
Good Luck,
Corey
Thanks a bunch:thumbsup:
mattmoto441 said:
no time at all, but we are experienced, (and i use that term lightly) wrench turners, in a cold ass garage with one light and 20 degrees lol it only took us about an hour and a half and corey did 80% of it and i just helped out at the end.
Wow!! Really neat that more and more folks are starting to experiment with home porting. I know Gladiator is getting ready to do some work on his.
I understand the "free horsepower" philosophy here, but was kinda surprised you went this route Corey. You have such a strong running Eaton Terminator, I would of thought you would of gotten a proven Stage IV to see just how quick you can get that beast. I was fortunate and got in a $417 GP with Steig for my Stage IV and was able to get improvements of 44 RWHP and 7 RWTQ.
But regardless, looking forward to seeing you run at the track this year!!!
I understand the "free horsepower" philosophy here, but was kinda surprised you went this route Corey. You have such a strong running Eaton Terminator, I would of thought you would of gotten a proven Stage IV to see just how quick you can get that beast. I was fortunate and got in a $417 GP with Steig for my Stage IV and was able to get improvements of 44 RWHP and 7 RWTQ.
But regardless, looking forward to seeing you run at the track this year!!!
IronTerp said:
I like trying things myself. Paying 500+ after shipping the blower back and forth..then having a pegged maf. I wouldn't have been happy. This year the car got a cage, it still needs a 5pt harness, swingouts, loop, maf, and I want to do drag springs up front, plus it needs more dyno time and retuning...it all adds up.
The car will probably get sprayed most of the season so I wasn't to concerned about blower only #'s, I just want to open up the bottom of the blower so the n20 has a better path to the lower intake. There is still power to be made, but that won't be till Feb.
On another note, I can't wait till race season.
I understand and that certainly makes sense. Just remember, Broke's 10.89 is the fastest Eaton/6 speed/IRS time that I've heard of and you would certainly have a very reasonable opportunity to run this or quicker. But, the top Eaton on spray time is 10.01 and that's going to be just a little tougher......;-) Either way, I'm going to enjoy seeing how you do. The MACA has 6 track events this year, 4 of them being rentals and I hope you can make some.94-98 Trans Am said:
And, I pegged my MAF at 5,800 rpm with a 2.90/4 lb, unported setup. Many Eaton folks peg em before they even get the ported blowers on there............
im thinking 3tenths at least this port job gave. cant wait to retune it with the new maf.
Great work!! Free horsepower is never a bad thing..
what size or hole saw bits did you use??
We did a Lightning blower ourselves a few months with only a few pics to go by, the results were staggering to say the least. I believe it made right around 415rwhp and in the 500's for torque, with the STOCK PULLEY. It's almost unbelievable really.
after checking out your port job and thinking about it a bit i had to do my own port job my self
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373425
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373425
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