What timing are you guys using? Mine seems to run strong in the midrange with a +2% advancement.
Any others experimenting?
Any others experimenting?
Predator Timing Adjustment
- Thread starter §ilver§nake
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ttt
I'm a sceered to mess with it too much, til I'm on a dyno with the A/F hooked up. Put on the Performance tune last night, feels stronger in midrange.
Is your adjustment 2 pts off center or does it read 2% on the display.
Is your adjustment 2 pts off center or does it read 2% on the display.
It reads 2% off of center on the display; I am assuming that equates to 2 degrees. The scale is +/- 10%. The user's guide does not correlate the scale to a reference, unlike the Fuel Base which correlates to +/- 1 point. I have only gone to +4%, and noticed the midrange drop off some. I am going in the other direction to today.
Let's turn this knob and push this button and see what it does. LOL
You guys are scary. ;-)
You guys are scary. ;-)
The +/- 10% scale is based on the total amount of timing. Let's say that you have 25 degrees of timing, then if you add 2% to that, then you're going to only increase your overall timing by about .5 degrees, not 2.
I would not adjust your fuel to be richer, as that is not going to give you more power. You need to be monitoring your fuel trim data and spark to determine what your vehicle is doing. Of course, a real wideband is your best measurement of your a/f ratio. In saying such, don't go *leaner* on your on your fuel without making sure you have a wideband measurement done to determine if you need to do such (read the directions with the Predator!!!).
Just to confirm that I have noticed a strong "seat-of-the-pants" increase from the bottom up with the Performance Tune. I'm having to exercise quite a bit more self-restraint to prevent loss of traction. The only valid measure of the benefits will be to get the car tuned on a dyno, IMHO.
As for experimenting Silver, I'm going to hold off until I get some more info. Please keep us advised on your progress. I just wouldn't risk too much deviation from the program without some professional supervision. It may be possible to do serious damage with improper settings.
As for experimenting Silver, I'm going to hold off until I get some more info. Please keep us advised on your progress. I just wouldn't risk too much deviation from the program without some professional supervision. It may be possible to do serious damage with improper settings.
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I appreciate the concerns you have for my experimenting; your advice is well taken.:beer: I am not going "full bore" into it. I am dabbling in it. I am not going to monkey around with the A/F ratio until I get my FJO wideband O2 sensor and Afterburner eFPC installed.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
I installed the "Diablo Pulley" tune since I am using a 2.80" pulley. It had minor detonation at WOT below 3K rpm so I richened up the fuel by 5% with little effect. I then realized that the whole 15% only equals 1 a/f point. Later today, I will go the full 15% (1 a/f point) just to be safe. I will also retard the timing by a few percent to be safe. I figure that these adjustments are actually making the tune more conservative so I'm not too worried about it. When I was a teen, I used to make much more drastic and uneducated changes to fuel and timing and never blew anything up...of course, I never took to the track AND my old 65 Mustang didn't cost me $35K 
. I believe that the Predator was engineered to "Trim" the adjustment so nuts like me and SilverSnake dont blow up the engine. This is why you need a dyno tune to make gross adjustments which is where Diablo and their dealers can make some money...by selling the more drastic changes. I think it's a good move on Diablo's part for liability reasons.
PS. SilverSnake, you're not a lawyer are you?
. I believe that the Predator was engineered to "Trim" the adjustment so nuts like me and SilverSnake dont blow up the engine. This is why you need a dyno tune to make gross adjustments which is where Diablo and their dealers can make some money...by selling the more drastic changes. I think it's a good move on Diablo's part for liability reasons.PS. SilverSnake, you're not a lawyer are you?
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btw,
I also adjusted the fan to turn on 5 degrees cooler and turn off 5 hotter just to experiment. The other thing I changed was the TC but it still seems to stay on. It said that you may have to do the opposite...ie. set it to "on". I'll try it later today and keep you all posted.
All I know is that I cant go back now that I felt the 2.80" pulley. It's a big improvement even compared to the 2.93" pulley that I had before. If I'm not carefull, I can light up the 315/35/17 Sumi's which is how I got my name in the first place.
I also adjusted the fan to turn on 5 degrees cooler and turn off 5 hotter just to experiment. The other thing I changed was the TC but it still seems to stay on. It said that you may have to do the opposite...ie. set it to "on". I'll try it later today and keep you all posted.
All I know is that I cant go back now that I felt the 2.80" pulley. It's a big improvement even compared to the 2.93" pulley that I had before. If I'm not carefull, I can light up the 315/35/17 Sumi's which is how I got my name in the first place.
You guys are scaring me. I wouldn't consider playing with the spark unless my car was on the dyno. Using SOTP is not a good way to verify your car is properly tuned.
Why don't you guys log the altered timing curve? That will tell you how much moving it up and down is changing it.
SilverSnake: what FJO kit did you buy?
Why don't you guys log the altered timing curve? That will tell you how much moving it up and down is changing it.
SilverSnake: what FJO kit did you buy?
i had to do set the TC to "ON" to turn it off when the car starts. i also turned off the rear O2 sensors so my check engine light would not come on. i have been playing with idle speeds, which is great. i also noticed, at least in the "performance tune" that the rev limiter is set to 7000 rpm. dont want to touch A/F until i hit a dyno with a wideband. hopefully , depending on weather and if i can get my bfgs on, i can see what improvents the predator made at the track tonight. i am going to set it to the original tune, make a run, and then to performance tune and make a run.
You must realize that the fuel is most likely *not* the issue here. You should verify your timing by doing a datalog of *just* your RPMS and *timing* from 1k up to as high as you feel safe, in 4th gear, view the log afterwards, then make adjustments as needed. Since the end-user adjustments of the Spark/Timing affects the entire curve, you're probably going to take away from your performance up top if you remove timing to counter detonation down low. This is where you will want to talk to your dealer about your issue, and discuss with him about your datalogs that you have so he can get you a file that will take care of this.
All in all, I would also start with what brand of fuel you are using, and try to find something like Amoco, BP (it is the same fuel now), Mobil, Sunoco. Stay away from Chevron.
RIGHT ON!!! I can't agree enough.
What's wrong with Chevron? And glad to see you back on the site.:beer:
Good job on the fan adjustment I will try that today. Also, I had forgotten to try to turn off the TC! I sure hope that works, I would love to remove that from my pre-flight check list. Which wheels are you using on the rear and are you running spacers?
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From a best friend of mine, who works for Chevron, he showed me where the techron in Chevron is doubled in their premium, which means in order to add in this additional Techron, they have to take out more raw fuel content, which is bad for overall performance. He recommends the brands above. I've also heard great things about reformulated Shell. I used to use the old Shell without any issues, as well.
Good to see you again, too! Get up with me soon via PM about what we previously talked about
I understand your concern but leaving the detonation untouched scares me more than adjusting the timing. Again, the Predator only has limited "self-tuning" capabilities and I think it's by design so a user cant do anything drastic. Besides, all these changes is for WOT only. If I loose some performance up top, I dont mind as long as the car is safe. I'd go back to the 2.93 pulley but I risk damaging something during multiple swaps with the belts, pulleys, stripping bolts, etc...
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