This is an awesome thread. Thanks for all of your great input Nick.
Q & A Session... - Ask a Ford Dealer
- Thread starter 13COBRA
- Start date
First off... GREAT THREAD 13Cobra!! My question is ... I am looking to trade my 14 GT 5.0 Premium for a 16 or 17 GT. Is there a better time/month to do this incentive wsie. And Im sure the benies would be a lot better having to choose to buy the 16 GT than a newer 17. Or Would it? Im not sure what or what isnt the best time to get the deal that Im looking for. Thanks!
When I bought my F250, the Ford Dealer was offering $12500 off MSRP on F150s, F250s, and Expeditions. I know there isn't that much profit in it for the dealer. How/Why do they do this? Is it a volume thing? I did finance through them because they beat the bank with FMC and it was part of the discount.
Thanks Bob. I enjoy helping forum members out.
It depends on your regional rebates and incentives. You may be able to save $1000-3000 on a 16 over a equally equipped 17, but you may not find the combination you truly want.
Example. 2016 F150 XLT with chrome package on my lot right now...
Top MSRP: $52,135
MINUS Factory discounts of $2,500
MINUS markup of $3,708.68
MINUS rebates of $5,750
Purchase price: $40,176.32..... so $11,958.68 off.
There are higher priced ones out there that have more factory discounts that will show $12,500 off.
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Is your head swollen yet Nick?
...insert joke about Brad's wife making my head swell...
Haha.
Honestly, I wanted to start this thread to show that the car business can be transparent and that every dealer out there isn't trying to screw consumers at every turn.
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On the 40.2k sales price and salesman cut will you lose break even or make a little money based on your dealer costs after holdback? Little money made meaning less than 1k profit. I'm assuming the dealer won't make more than 1k on that deal after everyone is paid.
Probably correct on the front end.
$687.87 after everyone is paid and before you take into account the number of days it's been on your floorplan and the interest that has already accrued.
That particular truck hs been on my lot 32 days. So about $204.12 in interest. So I would net $483.75.
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Lol, I haven't messed with you for a while. I'm slacking! Wait, I showed you pictures of her?
Do you get any kick backs after the fact?
Haha yeah, she's a babe.
Depends on the vehicle and the month. $0-500.
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So the dealer takes out a "loan" and pays interest on each vehicle on their lot? So for the dealers that are adding crazy ADMs (saw two Gt350s, one at $15k and the other at $20k ADM) are they paying interest on those vehicles also? ADM like that seems like a huge gamble then.
edit: dealers only put ADM on cars with high public interest. It's a gamble that people are impatient and have to be the first to have it while supply is low.
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So I'll offer 39,700 for that truck. I did not mean for you to be that specific:lol:
assuming a used car is in good condition - what tools do you use place a value on a used car and what's the best way for a non dealer consumer to place a value on a used car? follow up question is how accurate do you believe manheim MMR, kbb, and nada are?
MMR is the most accurate as it tracks the value of pre-owned vehicles by prices they have actually sold for.
If you take a NADA guide to the auction you will end up with a TON of cars for several thousand dollars more than they are worth. Anymore it seems that NADA clean trade is what you will be able to sell it for retail.
KBB is a joke as well.
I buy and price my vehicles based on the vehicles for sale. If I can make $5k and have it priced reasonably, great. If I make $1 and have it priced reasonably, great, moved the car and can reinvest. If I price it too high and let it sit...then I'm wasting everyone's time. That's why a lot of stores are moving towards being a one price store.
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