I'm in EastTN near Knoxville, only 100 miles from the KY border but like TN, KY is wide state.
Yea, drop the girlfriend at some of the little shops in Gatlinburg and come check it out, its a nice ride if you take 23/441 all way up from Atlanta.
Reputable shop recommends blower...
- Thread starter cmsnake
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I'm in EastTN near Knoxville, only 100 miles from the KY border but like TN, KY is wide state.
Yea, drop the girlfriend at some of the little shops in Gatlinburg and come check it out, its a nice ride if you take 23/441 all way up from Atlanta.
Yes. I've driven a whipple 5.0. And there is just not much seat of the pants feel between my car and the whipple car. A centri with gears and tune will run 10s as well.
I think it really just comes down to what you want. Both blowers will do the same thing. Centris are just cheaper.
that my friend is the winning statement.
Thanks, I will let you know if we decide to take the trip anytime soon!
This is basically the conclusion I have come too. I would just like to drive both if possible and base my decision on personal preference. But right now, the smarter choice is a centri, not only financially, but on the recommendation of a well known tuner.
I havent seen one centri car run 10s with just the blower tune, gear change and drag radials on stock wheels. I could have missed it, and its possible in the right weather and track but its certainly no common like the PD cars.
And its not THAT much more expensive when you figure gears or if you have to bolt a set of drag wheels and tires on as well.
I have driven a stock Roush X whatever it is with the same blower I have, felt kind of like a slug to be honest. Guy drove in my car and ordered a tune the same day, warranty be damned lol. So that doesnt prove much.
Bad intention did it the right way, converter, headers, decent wheels/tires and he runs well - with a P1SC to boot. I dont usually play the 'what if' game but if I really tried I could put this car in the 40s with drag wheel and tires, some minor weight reduction, raising the shift points (I only shift at 7000-7100) and some tuning tweaks. But honestly I dont care, its fast enough to get kicked out of any 'real' event without a roll bar so whats the point. If I was selling/installing them I would try a little harder, I let those guys battle the tenths..
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Like I said earlier in this thread, if you have a good installer/tuner and you aren't going to install it yourself its best to go with what they want for several reasons. Its just common sense if you are not satisfied with what they recommend they will work a little harder to make you happy then if you picked your own parts they don't recommend.
When you are at the mercy of another guy's wrench whats said on internet forums doesn't mean much
CPRsm
Active Member
Want instant, buy nitrousInstant torque.
Nice for them 60 foots without using trans brakes, two steps etc, some guys do like to get decent ETs with their street cars.
Myself I like the feeling that I have a couple hundred extra cubic inches at all times - no waiting. Sometimes 'insane top end power' equals crappy bottom end power too
I think most people shoot for better ET's than 60ft's. I just never liked PD blowers much. Kinda reminded me of teenage sex. Real hot and heavy up front and then over quickly. :lol1:I agree,I have not seen any centri 5.0 Mustangs run in the 10s with just a blower kit,tune and drag radials.JMO
Anything with over 650 RWHP, PD or centri blower set up is gonna be an serious setup power-wise on stock tires on the street. both of those setups tuned right can be setup for that power and will roast the tires in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd when you hammer it.
Want instant, buy nitrous
Sort of like too small a turbo to get spooled up quick
These aint your '03 Cobra Eatons, they pull hard to 7500rpm, plenty of dyno graphs out there..
60 foot IS a lot of your ET, it takes a metric crap-ton of power to make for a bad front half. Especially with a nearly 4000lb car.
My worry with the PD and having a MT-82 is I dont want to be replacing transmissions and rear ends annually because of 550ft/lb instant TQ. That is a lot of stress on the drivetrain. I know a guy who had to send his MT-82 to Liberty to have it beefed up becuse it failed with his Roushcharger.
I have been going back and forth for months about whether to do a D1SC Stg2, roush later this year, or wait for a turbo kit whenever that may be.....still cant make up my mind. With the PC, the car can be back to stock in about 4 hours, which is good if you get bored with cars easily.
I have been going back and forth for months about whether to do a D1SC Stg2, roush later this year, or wait for a turbo kit whenever that may be.....still cant make up my mind. With the PC, the car can be back to stock in about 4 hours, which is good if you get bored with cars easily.
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I have been racing a long time and a 10 second daily driver is hard to come by.The Roush Tuner kit for $5799.00 is not a bad price for a complete kit.
It was on sale one place a few months ago for $5100....shame I didnt have the funds :shrug:
The PD will yield better 60's (in an auto application)
Again, I went 10.8's first pass off the trailer, yeah, with a gear.
99% of people usually have a gear in the car already anyway, as that's usually the first mod people do.
I didn't add the "gear" to help the blower, i added a blower after the fact.
Again,
any blower in these cars will yield great results.
Again, I went 10.8's first pass off the trailer, yeah, with a gear.
99% of people usually have a gear in the car already anyway, as that's usually the first mod people do.
I didn't add the "gear" to help the blower, i added a blower after the fact.
Again,
any blower in these cars will yield great results.
Vortech / Paxton = way cheaper.....
Most likely if you drag race the car you will hurt parts with either blower, or NA too for that matter if you get serious about it. GT500s come with the same rear so I wouldnt be too concerned about it on the street. Transmission, well, isnt up to the task, lot of that depends on the clutch you are using and how you drive it.
Like I posted earlier higher RPM can cause more stress than low end torque on the driveline, its a give-take thing.
Either way the low end can be 'tuned' out with a PD, the centri it will never be there.
It really depends on your goals and what YOU want out of the car, if you just want a fun driver or big dyno numbers it really doesnt matter, just pick whatever will flow enough air to make the HP you desire. Cost, ease of installation/installation, long term reliability, cooling/radiator fan issues, parasitic loss/efficiency, noise and looks are all other things to consider as well. Its enough to make you crazy, sometimes its best to hang a picture of them all on a wall, close your eyes and throw a dart
You also had headers and drag wheels and tires right?
Plus you also had a bigger blower than the standard kit too?
What kind of peak PSI?
I'd be curious to see the timeslip if you still have it..
actually, my blower was smaller than what comes on the paxton kit.
i now have a blower equal to what comes on the paxton kit.
I'll say it as i've said many many times, any blower on these cars is going to yield great results.
it's up to you if you want to spend a couple thousand more on a pd kit
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