I had my MT82 rebuilt to Stage 1 by Rev, Im very very happy with it, but I dont beat the car and Im at a little 400 to the wheels, not near what youre making, while the gearing is perfect for our car, if you can swing it, Id just get the Magnum and change the rear gears to like a 4.10
Revolution Automotive Rebuild info?
- Thread starter mebcop
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I know this is an old thread, but did you ever go with the rev auto or liberty build? Im curious as to how it worked out for you.
I have a buddy thats has broken 2 of them its all about how hard you drive the car and he drives the car hard....its better then stock but if you like to shift go tremec its the best solution...
No I never did go through with this. I pondered this and then compared doing a T56 swap. I then looked at a 6r80 swap. In the end I traded the car for a 2014 GT premium A6 with 2193 miles on it. I made this decision because I will never be as aggressive as I need to be in order to optimize upgrades while driving a stick shift car. Second I am older now and enjoy the luxury of an auto. I never drove my car hard meaning I never power shifted or left the line at 6000 rpm. I never ran slicks. I babied the car compared to others. The revolution upgrades seem to really help from the reviews and posts I have read about their work. Further my personal communication with Revolution gives me confidence to say that they are very professional and not some fly by night outfit. It is a cheaper route than going T56 swap out. That is a plus over the T56. However the T56 is rated to 700T and gets rave reviews as well. Another plus on the MTY-82 side is that one will not need to regear the car. With the T56 you will have to regear if you seek keeping a final gear ratio near what your stock setup was or shorter. Good luck to you and Merry Christmas. Sorry I could not be of more help.
Thank you gents for the responses. I guess the only option for me is to go Magnum XL.
^^^ As weird as this sounds I found out after looking through threads on here dealing with T56 magnum swaps that there may be issues that arise with using cruise control. one or two claimed they could not get it to work at all after the swap. Most claimed it only worked in 5,6 or only 6. Most would only need cruise in 5,6. But some people like everything to work as factory regardless. Just thought I'd throw that in. T56 would be the way I would likely go as well if the money was there and I was hell bent on staying with a stick shift car. Auto or Stick they are a blast to drive. Good luck.
I would recomend having it installed by a shop that does this all the time. JPC in Md. Did mine and i haven't had a single issue with mine. They have the know how to do it right the 1st time. while your at it get a new clutch and new stock slave. I changed the stock 3:31's to Ford racing 4:10's They work perfectly with the tremec. You will not be disappointed if you choose this route...pm me if you have any questions!
Two thumbs up for JPC Racing. And I agree, NEVER pull a tranny to do a clutch without replacing the slave cylinder. Learned that one the hard way. BTW All of the good Exedy Mach series packages come with a slave cylinder in the kit, the heavier duty slave cylinder. Ran mach 500 setup in two cars both over 500RWHP and had great results with Exedy. But each has his own flavor on that topic.
Thanks fellas. I already have 3.73s in my GT. Not to sure if ill need 4.10s, but if I do, Ill cross that bridge when it comes. So new plan is to get bigs and littles, a Shaftmasters DS, a detroit and a cover (since im a track pack with a torsen) and run her till the trans goes. Im sure it will happen eventually, although she showing no signs of added wear yet with the new power.
Im so close to a 10 second pass I can taste it.
Im so close to a 10 second pass I can taste it.
Simply rebuild the existing LS and add an additional clutch to it. I have friends of mine running 10.0X consistently on a limited slip. They recommend pulling the carrier and rebuilding it by removing one spacer and substituting a clutch in the build up process. Cheaper than a Detroit and doesn't clunk and bang at every turn on the street. Food for thought. Not knocking the Detroit but if an LS diff with FRPP clutch kit plus one as decribed will hold up to the beating this guy gives his it will hold up for most. Good luck.
I wish it was that easy. I have a torsen t-2. I plan to go with the detroit true trac because they are suppose to be beastly from what I have read, and its not a full locker so operation should be smooth, but im not completely ruling out the clutch type lsd. If i had it stock i would just rebuild it and call it a day.
Good luck.
I have a Detroit true trac in mine also with strange c-clip eliminator hd 31 spline axles, love it , no clutches in the diff anymore, zero maintenance!
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