I have spec twin disc with aluminum flywheel the clutch engagement is great but it does make some chatter not at engagement but when you first depress the clutch about the 1st inch of travel but only. Not loud in the car with radio on no one could hear. It has very good pedal feel and modulation. I put about 500 miles on it till the brand new slave cylinder popped. Told it happens time to time shop will redo on them and ford will credit for new slave, but have to tow the car their... I didn't get a chance to use at the track but next month hopefully weather will break we've had over 60 inches of snow!
singl disc shot, dual disc time
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aluminum flywheels changes how the clutch acts or at least it felt different for me. i had the aluminum fly wheel and when i drove a buddies that had a steel flywheel his seemed to need less rpm when starting. the stock clutch system as a whole sucks.
Because I was advising the OP of how the twin disc acts since he was expressing his interest in a twin disc
I told you at least once already, I don't have chatter, I have a rattle. And if you want to call that harmonics I'll agree with you. If you can't differentiate between engagement chatter and rattle while the pedal is all the way out from my explanation then we can't talk anymore lol ..
I'm happy for everyone that has a McLeod twin disc and it is perfect in their eyes or it doesn't rattle for them....Mine does and it's exactly as McLeod says it should be...So I got the product from McLeod that is built according to their specifications and you guys all the the better models.....I don't know what else to say about it
You guys act like I'm from another planet because my clutch rattles and McLeod says it's supposed to. Your clutches don't...Celebrate it.
rattle? are you high still? if your clutch rattles you have a issue. go learn. or stop trying to driving from a dead stop in 4th gear.
Don't care.
If any of us sift long enough we can find problems with any car part company, doesn't make them a horrid company or a bad part. Just sayin!
I used to like SPEC, used them in my 03 cobra....Just killed one in my 99 SS, it was a stage III and did not even make it 10k miles..
As ive stated in my previous posts, the SPEC SINGLE DISC IS ONE OF THE FACTORS IN ME HAVING TO REPLACE SYNCROS. Ive had trans trouble long before the clutch and flywheel Give me trouble.a dual disc is a must on a higher hp, higher rpm, street or drag race driven car to help PREVENT trans issues. Thanks for those who told me what ive asked, ive found a killer deal on a mcleod RXT with billet steel flywheel.
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I wish I would have known that way back when I had my old car. I would have put a clutch in it the day I bought it. The #1 reason I traded it was b/c the transmission sounded line a 03/04 eaton at wot and the shifts were notchy.
glad to hear. good luck. let us know how it goes.
I fail to see how a single disc alone causes synchro issues. Most synchro issues are caused by how it's driven/shifted. Perhaps you just were never taught proper technique.
I don't see how anyone would want a twin disc for the street. All the ones I've driven were like an "on/off" switch which made driving at slow speeds or traffic a major PITA. I have a Spec stage 2 going in next week while the trans is having synchros fixed. The stage 3 puck style just seemed to be overkill for the street and I want some smooth transition.
I don't see how anyone would want a twin disc for the street. All the ones I've driven were like an "on/off" switch which made driving at slow speeds or traffic a major PITA. I have a Spec stage 2 going in next week while the trans is having synchros fixed. The stage 3 puck style just seemed to be overkill for the street and I want some smooth transition.
I am no longer a fan of SPEC, but was kind of wondering the same thing..if the clutch was fully engaged, should not have caused any damage to the syncros. Wonder if the setup was not properly shimmed or there were issues with hydraulics, so perhaps clutch was never fully engaged.
On behalf of everybody on here, we're glad you chose to go with WHAT YOU WANTED! Not what people said will (APPARENTLY) cause issues. But do fill us in on how it goes with the install, I am very interested in hearing of your separate experience with this.
Wow....That's probably goning to be my new saying...Especially the next time someone says they don't want me here lol....."Don't care"
All good...I'm glad I have one of the best clutches
Sounds like you never owned a good clutch sorry for your luck. When you choose to step up to a big boy clutch the rxt works both as a DD and track ready. Nice and easy.
I've had my rst in my car for over a year. It does chatter, at least mine does. It was worse with the mt82 than it is with the t56 mag. Chatters a little at idle and coming to stops. I don't really care cause chatter is a typical symptom of any twin disk. I know some ppl don't get chatter and that great but realistically speaking u will get some it's just a twin disks nature. Having gotten that out of the way the clutch is awesome. Ur buying an aftermarket part and expect it to be super quiet and oem like, if that's the case buy a stock clutch it's that simple. Although the McLeod is really close to stock pedal feel, but like I said before u will probably get some noise. In my opinion the pros tremendously outweigh the cons here. It's a bad a$$ clutch and a little noise shouldn't be the reason u don't get it.
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My RXT is the most comfortable driving clutch I have ever owned. If you think the twin disk is an on off switch wait till you drive your car with that SPEC clutch. My RXT does not rattle at all either and I love how people get their panties in a wad when someone points out maybe their stuff was not installed properly lol Or that maybe they cant drive! Im quite sure Mcleod did not tell him what he is experiencing was normal because its not normal in the one I own or the buddies of mine that own them.
I had no comment on RXT, mine was strictly for the SPEC issues the op originally had. Clutch drag kills synchros faster than anything else. Grooves in the flywheel would lead me to believe the OPs SPEC setup was either excessively warped or not shimmed properly and assembly was dragging during shifts (most likely only apparent at high rpm)......There is an easy test for drag, on level ground, put the car in 2nd gear, keep the clutch pedal pressed to the floor and rev the car into the upper RPMS....if it starts move, then you have clutch drag and are not getting complete engagement.
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