Slicks or DR's? Stick shift car w/ 3.73's

[black5.0]

Car currently has a tune, off road H and a few suspension mods, and a roush intake that I think I might take off because I don't think it does anything. My question is what are everyones opinions on what tires are best for a stick shift car with 3.73's.

Also what brand and size of tire? I will most likely get the weld drag wheels since I've heard a lot of bad stories about the Race Stars.

Edit: I should add this is for a drag setup only, keeping my stock tires for the street, for now.

 

[05_Evolution]

i have 295/45/17 mickey thompson drag radials. See sig for details

Definitely need something at the very least that is 28 inches tall other wise you'll have to go into 5th before the 1320

 

[chet3310]

Slicks if you can, less strain all around on car. Taller the better.

 

[92hatchlx]

I'm running a set of 275/60/15 MT ET street radials on a set of 15x8 summit wheels and a wheel spacer. The tires aren't too bad. With a good burn out they stick pretty well if the track is well prepped. My next set of drag wheels will be the dark stars that are direct drill, no more eccentric washers.

 

[MikeLTDLX]

SLICKS

28 inch, stiff sidewall slicks. Slicks are easier to launch, and more forgiving than a DR. I have witnessed DR destruction on one of these firsthand, it is not pretty. The stiff sidewall is perfect for a heavy stick car. I would suggest the Hoosier, or the Goodyear. I run the smaller Goodyear, as I am a 3.31 car and I wanted to gain some gear.

Mike

 

[trolls56]

If they are drag only I'd get slicks. DRs if you ever plan on running on the streets too. I've lived places where cops are very picky about tires on the street to places that people run slicks all the time on streets. I wouldn't suggest it but I've seen it done.

 

[beefcake]

SLICKS

28 inch, stiff sidewall slicks. Slicks are easier to launch, and more forgiving than a DR. I have witnessed DR destruction on one of these firsthand, it is not pretty. The stiff sidewall is perfect for a heavy stick car. I would suggest the Hoosier, or the Goodyear. I run the smaller Goodyear, as I am a 3.31 car and I wanted to gain some gear.

Mike

stick car, slicks,

 

[ViciousJay]

28" beotch, that's what you need

 

[black5.0]

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be looking for some 15" drag wheels and a 28x10" slick or something close to that width, will just be interesting going to the track since I don't have a trailer.

 

[BlackDragon]

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be looking for some 15" drag wheels and a 28x10" slick or something close to that width, will just be interesting going to the track since I don't have a trailer.

If you wanted to drive back and forth to the track, you are better off getting the DRs. Changing tires at the track is a pain, and so is scuffing up your interior with big ass tires and wheels. Plus mixing tires unbalances your car. Not worth it IMO

 

[MikeLTDLX]

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be looking for some 15" drag wheels and a 28x10" slick or something close to that width, will just be interesting going to the track since I don't have a trailer.

If you wanted to drive back and forth to the track, you are better off getting the DRs. Changing tires at the track is a pain, and so is scuffing up your interior with big ass tires and wheels. Plus mixing tires unbalances your car. Not worth it IMO

I drive to the track. Slicks and skinnies. Air up the slicks a bit, and get a stiff sidewall slick, and it feels almost like a radial. I have driven an hour and a half each way, it is no big deal.

Mike

 

[BlackDragon]

Never said he couldn't do it. Its just the "its illegal" part that would stop me. That would get me in a shit of trouble up here in NY, I can't even imagine the shitstorm of getting caught in Kali

 

[MikeLTDLX]

Never said he couldn't do it. Its just the "its illegal" part that would stop me. That would get me in a shit of trouble up here in NY, I can't even imagine the shitstorm of getting caught in Kali

Get a Quicktime Pro or an ET Street, both are DOT legal. Shaun says he has more miles on his slicks than on his street tires, he lives in California.

Mike

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Slicks!!!!! I have 3.73 with 275/60/15 MT DR. I have a bad issue with the 1-2 shift because of the boiling point of the DOT3 clutch fluid boils during burn out and gets too hot while launching, here's what Shaun told me

You're slipping the clutch in order to launch on DR's (this is the proper strategy for DR launches), however your technique is over heating the clutch, which transfers that heat thru the Slave cylinder, resulting in the in-ability of the Slave to release the clutch completely (due to the boiled clutch fluid in the slave), which in turn results in a missed gear.
The ECU monitors crankshaft RPM and compares it to Transmission input shaft RPM (technically output shaft RPM vs trans gear), so it knows when the clutch is slipping, building up heat, etc.* The ECU is activating clutch protection in your AED tune.* It doesn't do it on the Bama tune because Clutch protection was not implemented in the HYZ6 strategy.* (techincally it's there, just doesn't do much)* When the 2011's started coming back to dealers for Clutch/flywheel replacements, Ford got VERY aggressive with the Clutch Protection strategy.

I can remove clutch protection from your tune, however this will NOT solve the missed gear problem as it is a function of your launch technique on DR's, which as I stated earlier is the CORRECT way to net great 60's on DR's.

If you wish to continue to run DR's and slip the clutch at the track, you will eventually need a transmission rebuild (worn syncros) as well as a clutch.* This is precisely the reason I run slicks and 'drop the hammer' rather than slip the clutch at the track.

If you'd like this modification done to the tune I will send you an update, just realize it will not solve the root problem, in fact it could make it worse.* (more clutch slippage = more heat)

 

[Boostfan]

I'm a fan of the drag radial. I want to have the same tire on my car that I run at the strip with. If a Camaro pulls up on the side if me, I do not want to have to say "Wait Mr. Camaro man while I go home to change my tires".

 

[BlackDragon]

Slicks!!!!! I have 3.73 with 275/60/15 MT DR. I have a bad issue with the 1-2 shift because of the boiling point of the DOT3 clutch fluid boils during burn out and gets too hot while launching, here's what Shaun told me

You're slipping the clutch in order to launch on DR's (this is the proper strategy for DR launches), however your technique is over heating the clutch, which transfers that heat thru the Slave cylinder, resulting in the in-ability of the Slave to release the clutch completely (due to the boiled clutch fluid in the slave), which in turn results in a missed gear.
The ECU monitors crankshaft RPM and compares it to Transmission input shaft RPM (technically output shaft RPM vs trans gear), so it knows when the clutch is slipping, building up heat, etc.* The ECU is activating clutch protection in your AED tune.* It doesn't do it on the Bama tune because Clutch protection was not implemented in the HYZ6 strategy.* (techincally it's there, just doesn't do much)* When the 2011's started coming back to dealers for Clutch/flywheel replacements, Ford got VERY aggressive with the Clutch Protection strategy.

I can remove clutch protection from your tune, however this will NOT solve the missed gear problem as it is a function of your launch technique on DR's, which as I stated earlier is the CORRECT way to net great 60's on DR's.

If you wish to continue to run DR's and slip the clutch at the track, you will eventually need a transmission rebuild (worn syncros) as well as a clutch.* This is precisely the reason I run slicks and 'drop the hammer' rather than slip the clutch at the track.

If you'd like this modification done to the tune I will send you an update, just realize it will not solve the root problem, in fact it could make it worse.* (more clutch slippage = more heat)

Or you can put a s/s clutch line and dot 4 fluid...

 

[sisky wolf]

Car currently has a tune, off road H and a few suspension mods, and a roush intake that I think I might take off because I don't think it does anything. My question is what are everyones opinions on what tires are best for a stick shift car with 3.73's.

Also what brand and size of tire? I will most likely get the weld drag wheels since I've heard a lot of bad stories about the Race Stars.

Edit: I should add this is for a drag setup only, keeping my stock tires for the street, for now.

with 28" tires ,.4.1 gear and 4 shifts ..I am hitting 7100 rpms in the 1/4 mile
3.73 gear can stay in 4th gear..no need for 5th gear...unless you max out at 6000 rpms

 

[sisky wolf]

i have 295/45/17 mickey thompson drag radials. See sig for details

Definitely need something at the very least that is 28 inches tall other wise you'll have to go into 5th before the 1320

Wrong...with 3.73 gears and a 28" tire(recommend ET Sts)..You will have no need to even get close to 5th gear

 

[MikeLTDLX]

I'm a fan of the drag radial. I want to have the same tire on my car that I run at the strip with. If a Camaro pulls up on the side if me, I do not want to have to say "Wait Mr. Camaro man while I go home to change my tires".

I like to do my drag racing at the track, where it is safe and legal. With that said, a pair of DRs is great for the street.....

Mike

 

[05_Evolution]

Wrong...with 3.73 gears and a 28" tire(recommend ET Sts)..You will have no need to even get close to 5th gear

Riiiight because I currently run 28" tall tire and I have 3.73's and I run out of gear right at the finish line but I guess I have no clue as to what I'm talking about since I drag race my car almost every weekend...

Read what I wrote again. Also let me rephrase it and slow it down for you. If you have 3.73's and anything SMALLER than a 28" tall tire you will have to go in to 5th so make sure you have AT LEAST A 28" tall tire.