Slicks or DR's? Stick shift car w/ 3.73's

[99cobraUgotbit]

Or you can put a s/s clutch line and dot 4 fluid...

Sorry to hijack thread :beer:
Already put in DOT4 with JHR steel line, and bleed brakes.......

One thing I could check is the motor mounts,,, my driver side LT header rattles at real low RPM and on right turns only. So I think my driver side mount is bad as I get tons of torque on launch so intern I can't hit the 1-2 shift with the tranny bracket being installed to the body with all the twisting of the motor.

Does that make sense?

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Riiiight because I currently run 28" tall tire and I have 3.73's and I run out of gear right at the finish line but I guess I have no clue as to what I'm talking about since I drag race my car almost every weekend...

Read what I wrote again. Also let me rephrase it and slow it down for you. If you have 3.73's and anything SMALLER than a 28" tall tire you will have to go in to 5th so make sure you have AT LEAST A 28" tall tire.

This :lol:

 

[black5.0]

To the people bickering, Yes with 3.73's and a 27" tall tire (stock) you run out of gear, I know because I've ran my car at the track with the stock tires, hit rev limiter before the end. That's why in my poll I posted 28" tires.

Sacramento Raceway is my closest track, it's a little over an hour drive, so I'd have to drive on slicks up to the track or drag radials, and from what I've read running on drag radials at the strip can do more damage than good. I've seen Shaun's car run in person, before I knew it was his car back in October, he launches very hard on slicks, so I might try that, just need to save some pennies and get some tires and wheels, and an AED tune :thumbsup: to replace my current one

 

[Ill_W1N]

Riiiight because I currently run 28" tall tire and I have 3.73's and I run out of gear right at the finish line but I guess I have no clue as to what I'm talking about since I drag race my car almost every weekend...

Read what I wrote again. Also let me rephrase it and slow it down for you. If you have 3.73's and anything SMALLER than a 28" tall tire you will have to go in to 5th so make sure you have AT LEAST A 28" tall tire.

this is true. i ran a 13.0 at 103mph because my car hit the rev limiter in 4th with a 100ft left to go and bogged bad. My 26" is not enough to finish with 3.73s. i shifted into 5th with a 109mph for a 12.9 (shitty 60ft) . I lost some time to going all the way to 5th too.

 

[csb85]

Everyone that runs slicks on their car, Do you run tubes for the slicks ?

 

[Phatcha13]

I'm running 275/60/15 nitto drag radial on 15x10 racestar I also have 373 gears and a manual I like them and I don't have to keep swapping wheels like I would with a slick. These measure out to 27.7" tall I cross the 1/4 mile in 4th right at 7,000 rpm, I set my limiter at 7300

 

[black5.0]

I'm running 275/60/15 nitto drag radial on 15x10 racestar I also have 373 gears and a manual I like them and I don't have to keep swapping wheels like I would with a slick. These measure out to 27.7" tall I cross the 1/4 mile in 4th right at 7,000 rpm, I set my limiter at 7300

How do you launch your car? Everyone keeps saying that DR's and a manual car with those gears is carnage waiting to happen, but I've seen the same car with slicks launching really hard over and over. I guess I don't see what the difference is between stiff sidewall and a flexing sidewall. :read:

 

[MikeLTDLX]

How do you launch your car? Everyone keeps saying that DR's and a manual car with those gears is carnage waiting to happen, but I've seen the same car with slicks launching really hard over and over. I guess I don't see what the difference is between stiff sidewall and a flexing sidewall. :read:

Absorption of shock. The soft sidewall of a slick winds up and deforms..this is a cushion for the initial shock of applying that much force to the wheels. The DR, in contrast, does not wind up and deform. Thus, that shock has nowhere to go but back into the driveline. Imagine hitting a mattress with a hammer. Now, imagine hitting a block of wood with a hammer. Which one do you think would transfer more shock back up your arm?

 

[5.0_KenneB]

I would go with the 275/60/15 Mickey Thompson ET Radial Pro. That's what I run and I love them!!!!

 

[Bob Cosby]

Absorption of shock. The soft sidewall of a slick winds up and deforms..this is a cushion for the initial shock of applying that much force to the wheels. The DR, in contrast, does not wind up and deform. Thus, that shock has nowhere to go but back into the driveline. Imagine hitting a mattress with a hammer. Now, imagine hitting a block of wood with a hammer. Which one do you think would transfer more shock back up your arm?

Hmmm...I would say this depends a lot upon the type of DR, how much air pressure you run, and how you launch.

Example....below are a couple of pics of my 99 Cobra in 2004 during my NMRA F/S racing days. The car made 356 RWHP, weighed 3340 lbs w/driver, and we were required to run BFG or Nitto DRs (EVERYBODY used BFGs back then...they were far superior to Nittos for racing). The tires had ~13 psi of air. I dumped (not sidestepped) the clutch at 5500 rpm. Worked pretty well...

 

[05_Evolution]

I run drag radials and I side step the clutch. I cut consistent 1.75 and under 60 foot times so I'm happy with that. Running 12.0's with drag radials and a pro cal seems really good to me.

 

[MikeLTDLX]

I think it is all a matter of the your setup. If you have the rear end mods and suspension to support the hit, the DRs are going to be fine. However, why risk breaking parts when the slicks are so much safer and effective?

Mike

 

[WHITEMACH]

DR if it hooks on DR it will be faster and mph better.

 

[2012GTCS]

Wow learn something everyday here. Never knew a DR would be harder on the car overall then a slick.

What if you're only hitting the track 1-2 times a season?!?

 

[slagburn]

Tire pressure in either variety has a huge amount to do with how the tire performs. In my experience with DR's, once you hit 'em too hard they're gone, you have to get out of the gas or wait quite a while before you regain traction.

Slicks, with my car at 12 psi they would hit way too hard and scare the crap out of you on the big end.. stock front wheels and tires don't help. At 18 psi they'd do a controlled spin and leave much softer but 60'ing better overall. I think next time out I'll up the rpm 500 and decrease .5lb and see what happens.

 

[saleen homer]

i run mt et street II and havent had much issue. MT claims they are 27x12.50x18, in size actual 305/35/18. Crap track prep has kept me from great 60', but I'm still doing much better than most. run at 16psi. I also have 3.73 gears and am crossing the line at the top of 4th gear, but not having to shift at all.

 

[BlackDragon]

Wow learn something everyday here. Never knew a DR would be harder on the car overall then a slick.

What if you're only hitting the track 1-2 times a season?!?

You learned wrong then. dr's are not harder on a car then a slick. They just have to be driven differently and can not be treated like a slick and vice versa...

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

What is the best way to treat a DR at the track on a m6 with 3.73's? Should have mine here today and after reading this thread kind of regret not just getting slicks.

-Thomas

 

[MikeLTDLX]

What is the best way to treat a DR at the track on a m6 with 3.73's? Should have mine here today and after reading this thread kind of regret not just getting slicks.

-Thomas

You will need to find the happy medium of traction. It may require you to slip the clutch. Once a DR loses traction, it does not recover like a slick. So, the key is to keep it hooked up. A slick you can pretty much dump and hang on.

Mike

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Ok that's what I was wondering. Will just have to try different RPM's and slip the clutch. Thanks.

-Thomas