So I made the switch from radials to bias ply.

mr2cam

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I ran a bias ply outback and radials up front last year with no issues, but I had an auto, back when I ran my MR2 it would get a little scary if I had a radial up front. If you can, I would run a bias ply up front.
 

Katy TX5.0

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What bias ply tires did you buy?

I recommend a stiff sidewall slick for these cars. They are too heavy for a standard sidewall slick. You can always run tubes if you have a soft sidewall slick. The tubes will help the tires act more like a stiff side wall.

Start with a higher pressure and work your way down. That way when you feel the sway you can get comfortable with it or air the tires back up.

MT ET Street 27-10.5-15
 

Katy TX5.0

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Someone told you wrong.... Get the MT pro and prepare for broken parts because they fkn WORK. Regular radials are junk compared to the Pro.

I had the ET Street Radials. They weren't bad before I swapped the 3.31 for a 3.73 ring gear.
 

2011roush

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I ran the et street pro on my wife's 3.73 m6 car with stock suspension. It cut 1.73 60' leaving at 4500. I'm going to try the 3055s Mickeys I have this year.
 

CPRsm

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It's not terrible on the street. Just don't run around on 15psi. Air them bitches up and the sway isn't nearly as bad
 

Screamin363

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The Pro's are NOT well suited for a manual car. Too much driveline shock with them. They are better suited for an auto car. Yes.. things will break.

Note my sig.... Stick car here, I ran 1 mph faster with a pro radial than a stiff slick. Also straight as an arrow. I will never bolt a slick on a car again. Just try the pro 1 time.... You will see the difference
 

Katy TX5.0

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What were your sixty foot times on the ET Street Radials?

Best was 1.73 last summer with the 3.31 rear. Never could get it to hook after the switch.

Will it really be that bad with street tires up front and bias ply in the back?
 

Poppacapp

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Note my sig.... Stick car here, I ran 1 mph faster with a pro radial than a stiff slick. Also straight as an arrow. I will never bolt a slick on a car again. Just try the pro 1 time.... You will see the difference

Not saying they don't work. They work TOO good with a stick car. Quite a bit of driveline shock vs. automatic car.
 

slagburn

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The Pro's price isn't outrageous, might have to give them a try. Probably not the best candidate for street use of course. Will they last half as long as the usual MT radial on the street?
 

Jbstang87

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In the chance that something will break, will more sidewall on the mt et street radial at least help a little on a stick? Im debating a 26 inch radial or a 28 inch radial on a 3.31 m6
 

corysmach1

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I run mickey drag radials now....im thibking about running Hoosier QTP's. Im an M6 car and wanna leave hard at the track. People say they dont run tubes with them and seem to have great luck....just put air in them on the street and the sway wont be bad. I run the M&H Radials up front.
 

JohnRichard

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Finally accepted my mistake running drag radials with a manual and bought ET Streets. Is it going to be harder to drive with these down the track and what PSI works good with a 3.73 rear?

Now all I have to do is get rid of the practically new ET Street Radials.:fm:

I have ET streets... I think the only reason I am sitting in the car after go, to shift gears. my car drives straight.
MT I think for that tire size and car weight states never go below 14 but you will have to check the Mickey Thompson site to verify.

I run 16 PSI I have went to 14 and the tire slipped on the rim.
 
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Katy TX5.0

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In the chance that something will break, will more sidewall on the mt et street radial at least help a little on a stick? Im debating a 26 inch radial or a 28 inch radial on a 3.31 m6

The ET Street Radial is actually about 27.5 inches. I'd go with the 26 inch for 3.31. I had to rev high to get that combo to work. Why not swap the gear?
 
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Katy TX5.0

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Thanks for all the help guys. The car seemed to work best with the PSI around 17 after the first pass. I lowered it down to 15 hot and it got too unstable for my liking. 4,500 was the best rpm I could launch at. I was redlining at almost 8,000 a little before crossing the finish line. Should I shift into 5th for more possible acceleration or ride out 4th?
 
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svt1111

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Thanks for all the help guys. The car seemed to work best with the PSI around 17 after the first pass. I lowered it down to 15 hot and it got too unstable for my liking. 4,500 was the best rpm I could launch at. I was redlining at almost 8,000 a little before crossing the finish line. Should I shift into 5th for more possible acceleration or ride out 4th?

I have made a few passes on bias Plys. I love them.

First, regarding air pressures:
I like to run 11-12 psi cold, while in the lanes. After your burnout, you will be at about 15-16 psi launch pressure. The tires won't deflect well at operating psi higher than that. Just make sure you see smoke before you roll out of the burnout area and feather the burnout all the way out to coat the tires with sticky VHT while you approach the starting line. Before your next pass, check air pressure while waiting in the lanes and adjust back to 11-12 psi again. You'll be taking air out all day long.

Don't shift to 5th. 8k through the traps is high but manageable. As you increase the power of the car, try a taller tire to keen the r's below 8k through the traps.
 

svt1111

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Oh, one more thing-

If you are running a radial on the front, the car will feel squirly.

Run a skinny bias ply up front and you'll have a car that doesn't sway or handle scary at all. There is a pucker factor if you mismatch tire types!
 

5lho

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I use a 28X10X16 Hoosier slick and the standard BBP wheel up front. 4500 is the best launch rpm with 3.73s, it doesn't 60 faster hitting it harder on stock springs and shocks. I run 18 pounds and I drive them to the track 30 miles like that, no problems. With the slick you just have to be prepared to pilot the ship across the finish line with minor course corrections all the way. No big deal and I've done it over 100 times on this particular car.
 

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