I made the mistake of having the Spec TOB installed, squealed like a pig and had it pulled for a Ford TOB.
What makes that squealing noise occur?
What makes that squealing noise occur?
Spec clutch going in trash - Which one is smooth?
- Thread starter MalcolmV8
- Start date
i have about 3000 miles on my spec 3+ w 26 spline input shaft and a steel flywheel. it chatter so bad when i installed it. i drove it for 1000 miles and it still chattered. first time i took it to the track i rans slicks and gave the car 4 real hard launches pulling the fronts a little and on the way home i noticed my car drove like stock again. i thought i broke something but it performes just as good with no chatter.
My Spec 3+ and 26 spline input shaft have about 3k miles on them. No chatter and the clutch feels great. I dunno......
+1 same here, my Spec TOB started squaling like a pig and while I'm doing normal driving on the highway there is a constant loud cricket sound that can be heard over the exhaust! I could not deal with it, swapped it with a ford TOB
My spec 3+ 26spline now has about 7k miles and the chatter completely went away after 2k miles - so some of you guys need to be patient until the chatter completely goes away.
I've posted this in another thread on here I started but to update this one. After a couple thousands miles my spec 3+ 26 spline still shuddered like a mofo and was pissing me off and ready for the trash. I pulled the tranny and found my TOB was shot. The break in was apparently so harsh on it that it destroyed it. It was brand new and installed with the clutch. I replaced it and my clutch drives very stock like.
It's not absolutely 100% stock like but so darn close. Like 98%. A high grip clutch like this will always require a tad more gas on pull off to avoid shudder. I also especially notice the high grabbing when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd as it shudders but it's nothing bad like the break in shudders. Even the comp clutch I have in my Honda drives almost like stock but not absolutely 100%, still requires just a tad more gas on pull off to be smooth. Just the nature of the beast.
However that shudder on break in of a spec 3+ is freaking ridiculous. That alone will probably prevent me from ever buying one again.
It's not absolutely 100% stock like but so darn close. Like 98%. A high grip clutch like this will always require a tad more gas on pull off to avoid shudder. I also especially notice the high grabbing when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd as it shudders but it's nothing bad like the break in shudders. Even the comp clutch I have in my Honda drives almost like stock but not absolutely 100%, still requires just a tad more gas on pull off to be smooth. Just the nature of the beast.
However that shudder on break in of a spec 3+ is freaking ridiculous. That alone will probably prevent me from ever buying one again.
Another quote: If I rev it, no chatter, but then it sounds like I'm trying to drag everyone from light-to-light.
I've read many posts with similar advice as above with regard to eliminating chatter. From my experience so far with the RST and previous experience with the Spec 3, I find the above info to be quite accurate and helpful when taking off at an intersection, BUT my question is what can someone do to eliminate that same chatter when pulling into a garage/parking space or even backing up where you need to use very little throttle? As the second quote above states, "...it's...like I'm trying to drag everyone from light-to-light." I've been re-learning my clutch skills -initially with the Spec 3 and now with the RST- as I had my previous DF Centerforce for the past 30K miles, but how the heck can I be giving it more gas while manipulating the clutch when I have to slowly 'creep' into a parking spot (or drive slowly over a speed bump) in order to eliminate any chatter? Anytime I try that, the car will end up 'launching' forward, yet if I give small amounts of throttle while gentley allowing the clutch to grab, I have chatter. What am I doing wrong? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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If the car is launching forward you're giving it to much clutch. You can creep forward such as in a garage etc. by giving it very little clutch. If it chatters increase RPMs but still apply very little clutch and it'll creep up slowly.
Remember you could creep at 6000 rpms if you wanted (not recommended) by just applying very little clutch.
Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try...it's such a fine balancing act though. Why is this such an issue with a new RST, yet does not exist in my wife's Scion, my old Centerforce, the stock clutch, my 1992 5.0's King Cobra clutch -I think that's what it was called-, and every manual car I've driven in my life? Honestly, I never knew or heard of the term chatter until this clutch went in, let alone experience it! :shrug:
Because with a SD clutch you have plenty of space between the flywheel, and pressure plate for the disc to operate. With a TD clutch you have an extra disc, and a friction plate to take up room so getting it adjusted correctly become important for proper operation of the clutch.
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