Spec clutch going in trash - Which one is smooth?

[lemosley01]

Same type of chatter here. I didn't install the clutch (it came with the car), but figured it was just the nature of the beast.

If I rev it, no chatter, but then it sounds like I'm trying to drag everyone from light-to-light.

 

[fiveoh2go]

i just put in a spec stage 3+ (3k miles ago) and i absolutely love it, there is no chatter, noise, nothing at all.

+1

 

[Black Sex]

more RPM on the take off will help with the clutch chatter. I have always used centerforce dual friction clutchs. They grab good, pedal lighter than stock IMO, and hardly no chatter

 

[mrpork]

i have about 1200 miles on my spec3+ and love it . it chattered in the beginning.now nothing

 

[EvolvedResolve]

Is the Spec 2+ any milder? My TOB has been screaming since January, but I haven't pulled the trigger on my parts because I'm not sure if I should go with one of the Specs or dump a wad of cash on a McLeod Twin Disc. :shrug:

 

[Evil Bender]

Steel Flywheel with Centerforce DF stoped my chatter.

 

[SnakeBit]

In addition to the install, the break in procedure is important. Spec instructions say to break it in for 500 miles. I decided to keep my revs low during my breakin and I found that chatter decreased to nothing. At 500 miles, I let loose a 6K shift into second while getting on the freeway. Mine has been fine ever since then, chatter free.

As far as a steel flywheel, I've had aggressive clutches chatter on previous Mustangs with a steel flywheel. A clutch chatters because it is aggressively trying to grab before it has full contact with the flywheel. That's causing it to bounce a little bit. Remember that the flywheel is turning about 1,000 to 2,000 rpm while the pressure plate/input shaft are not turning at all just before they contact. A steel flywheel might help, but there is much more to it than just the rotating weight of the flywheel.

IMO, there are 3 things which control whether or not a HD clutch will chatter:
1. The install
2. The Break in
3. The adjustment (which includes the quadrant, F/W adjuster and cable)

It's not rocket science, it's a clutch. The principles are easy enough to understand, you just have to think about all of the parts and how they go together in addition to how they have to function. Draw a diagram of each of the parts and think about what has to happen when you push in the pedal. Take that action all the way to the flywheel and things will become clear. Worn parts will affect things in ways which are predictable. A half-ass installation will give half-ass results. Do it once, do it right.

While I agree that many have had problems with the Spec 3+, many have not. While it's possible that there could be quality problems with Spec, it doesn't explain it all. People have had problems with stock clutches too as well as with Ram and Centerforce. Granted they all could have quality problems, but there could also be quality problems in the install, the break in or the adjustment. It all works together.

 

[boatcop1]

In addition to the install, the break in procedure is important. Spec instructions say to break it in for 500 miles. I decided to keep my revs low during my breakin and I found that chatter decreased to nothing. At 500 miles, I let loose a 6K shift into second while getting on the freeway. Mine has been fine ever since then, chatter free.

As far as a steel flywheel, I've had aggressive clutches chatter on previous Mustangs with a steel flywheel. A clutch chatters because it is aggressively trying to grab before it has full contact with the flywheel. That's causing it to bounce a little bit. Remember that the flywheel is turning about 1,000 to 2,000 rpm while the pressure plate/input shaft are not turning at all just before they contact. A steel flywheel might help, but there is much more to it than just the rotating weight of the flywheel.

IMO, there are 3 things which control whether or not a HD clutch will chatter:
1. The install
2. The Break in
3. The adjustment (which includes the quadrant, F/W adjuster and cable)

It's not rocket science, it's a clutch. The principles are easy enough to understand, you just have to think about all of the parts and how they go together in addition to how they have to function. Draw a diagram of each of the parts and think about what has to happen when you push in the pedal. Take that action all the way to the flywheel and things will become clear. Worn parts will affect things in ways which are predictable. A half-ass installation will give half-ass results. Do it once, do it right.

While I agree that many have had problems with the Spec 3+, many have not. While it's possible that there could be quality problems with Spec, it doesn't explain it all. People have had problems with stock clutches too as well as with Ram and Centerforce. Granted they all could have quality problems, but there could also be quality problems in the install, the break in or the adjustment. It all works together.

Very well said.

For the OP a couple other things. the disassembly and reassembly a few times may have contributed to your issue also the Spec TOB is garbage, get the FMS HD TOB.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Very well said.

For the OP a couple other things. the disassembly and reassembly a few times may have contributed to your issue also the Spec TOB is garbage, get the FMS HD TOB.

I did order the FMS TOB from Towsley to install next week. Spec's TOB is garbage? humm I wouldn't have guessed. Seems like a $500 clutch should have a decent TOB but then again I'd also expect it to not chatter like a mofo at idle when trying to move the car.

How does putting the clutch on and removing and re-installing cause these issues? I know that plastic alignment tool they supplied sucked and that was one reason I had to loosen the bolts and re-center the clutch disk and re-tighten down.

 

[lxhatch302]

i have a stage 3 in mine and its been a good clutch, a lot better than the dual friction that was in it...

mine does chatter if your dont slip it the right way but i believe that my chatter is thanks to an asshole brother who took the car out and did a 1/8mile burn out with only 200 miles on it....but the clutch still feels strong as can be with 6-7k on it

 

[MalcolmV8]

i have a stage 3 in mine and its been a good clutch, a lot better than the dual friction that was in it...

mine does chatter if your dont slip it the right way but i believe that my chatter is thanks to an asshole brother who took the car out and did a 1/8mile burn out with only 200 miles on it....but the clutch still feels strong as can be with 6-7k on it

Which dual friction clutch was worse?

Mine was broke in nicely for sure as I was also breaking in a brand new motor. I'd bet your brother had nothing to do with your chatter.

 

[Black Sex]

I guy I work with put a CF dual fricion in his 90LX, drove it about 5 miles up the road, did about 3 hole shots, drove it back home, put it on the trailor, took it to the track and ran 10.50's. That is how he breaks in his clutchs. And he drives it on street with no problems.

 

[MalcolmV8]

So is this the only clutch we have so far that drives like stock on the street with no shudders at low rpms? The mcleod twin disk. Any other issues with the clutch I should know about?

Mcleod 99-04 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (26 Spline) [6912-07] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Thanks guys
Malcolm

 

[Tmac01baller]

So is this the only clutch we have so far that drives like stock on the street with no shudders at low rpms? The mcleod twin disk. Any other issues with the clutch I should know about?

Mcleod 99-04 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (26 Spline) [6912-07] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Thanks guys
Malcolm

This is the clutch I'm going with. I've pm'd several guys on here who are running it and they all say the pedal effort is so light and smooth. This is what I'm looking for since the stock clutch kills me in traffic.

 

[04sleeper]

So is this the only clutch we have so far that drives like stock on the street with no shudders at low rpms? The mcleod twin disk. Any other issues with the clutch I should know about?

Mcleod 99-04 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (26 Spline) [6912-07] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Thanks guys
Malcolm

+1

This is the clutch I will be going with as well.

 

[nolyaw]

I had a Spec stage 3 in an STI. It blew donkey balls. On or off, no in between.

In the S197 world Specs are generally avoided like the plague. Rams are the #1 choice.

I have half-ass installed many clutches in Fox bodies, using used shit, worn out shit, autozone shit, you name it. Never had any chattering or noise issues. Fox's don't have problems. You could be half (or full) retarded and work on them. These Cobrettis are worth a good amount of money, so none of us are poor, why not spend the $700 on a super nice clutch?

Hell, if we drove M3's or 951's, we'd be paying that for a STOCK clutch. Don't skimp on the beast!

 

[MalcolmV8]

These Cobrettis are worth a good amount of money, so none of us are poor, why not spend the $700 on a super nice clutch?

Hell, if we drove M3's or 951's, we'd be paying that for a STOCK clutch. Don't skimp on the beast!

I really don't mind spending the money. I just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into and which clutch to get. After all I spent $500 on that Spec POS.

Centerforce talks about their clutches been so smooth and factory like on their website. Anyone have experience with them? They are "only" $400 vs $700 for the twin disk.

 

[Jroc]

So is this the only clutch we have so far that drives like stock on the street with no shudders at low rpms? The mcleod twin disk. Any other issues with the clutch I should know about?

Mcleod 99-04 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (26 Spline) [6912-07] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Thanks guys
Malcolm

This is the clutch I'm going with. I've pm'd several guys on here who are running it and they all say the pedal effort is so light and smooth. This is what I'm looking for since the stock clutch kills me in traffic.

+1

This is the clutch I will be going with as well.

I highly recommend that y'all skip the RST and go straight to the RXT. There are two reasons I say this. First the RST is not a fan of being clutched a lot. You will start to smell it if you do. Second a few higher HP guys have burnt up the RST at the track. Youngguns04 for example, and Scary on MF(can't think of his user name on here) have burnt them up DR'ing them.

The RXT cures both of these problem and is suppose to be every bit as street friendly as the organic disc RST clutch.(which it is very street friendly)

With that said the day I wrecked my car I put 6 passes on it, and it worked flawlessly, but last December 24 when I had to run to Wal-Mart, and spent about an hour steady creeping in traffic trying to get into the parking lot it was most defanently not enjoying it as it was stinking and getting pretty damn soft.

 

[Jomo1994z71]

Malcolm, I hate to bust your balls, but with your post count you should have known the Spec TOBs are Ass! I mean seriously, it's a fact and not just hearsay. That being said, my HD Ford Racing TOB, took a shit 20 miles in after the Spec 3+ install. So I broke the clutch in, and put a new HD Ford Racing one in and all is well, after a $250 bill. Clutch adjustment is very important.
Overall, I do see your point with the Spec 3+ where you do have to rev it up a little high to get moving from a stop to a roll, but what do you expect, it's a clutch that can handle some serious abuse and HP/TQ.
Good luck in your new clutch, keep us updated...

 

[ScottsdaleSnake]

So is this the only clutch we have so far that drives like stock on the street with no shudders at low rpms? The mcleod twin disk. Any other issues with the clutch I should know about?

Mcleod 99-04 Mustang RST Street Twin Disc Clutch (26 Spline) [6912-07] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Thanks guys
Malcolm

Hello everyone. I just wanted to give some info regarding the above post regard the RST. I recently had my shop install a Spec 3 and I personally hated it due to the chatter/shudder getting into 1st gear -chattered like hell in the trans area and sounded like wheel hop in the rear-, although I was told this is normal during break-in. It did get a lot better around 1000 miles -not completely gone though- but I jumped the gun around the 400 mile mark and ordered the McLeod RST/FRPP TOB/Lethal Sleeve/Clutch Fork/ and replaced the center plate in the Fidanza aluminum flywheel for a second time as I replaced it for the new Spec 3 as well. Anyway, the RST does have an incredibly light pedal feel -softer than my wife's Scion!- but it does still have a slight chatter/shudder getting into 1st, but it is a fraction of what the Spec's chatter was at the same point-in-time during break-in. Now, I'm only at about 300 miles into break-in with the RST so this may be premature as it may completely disappear very soon, but from what other posts I've read and what my tuner explained -they have installed dozens of McCleod twin disc clutches on many high performance cars- this too is normal and expected from even the McCleod twin disc, but should completely disappear with time. Just keep in mind the chatter/shudder from the very beginning was substantially less than what I experienced with the Spec 3, but it does still exist with the RST. Personally, I do not drag or abuse my car, and driveability is of utmost priority which is why I replaced the Spec with the RST, but to be honest, I was and still am somewhat disappointed that there has been even an ounce of shudder with this expensive, and arguably the best, clutch setup on the market. Other than getting into first, the clutch shifts, feels, and performs perfectly although as I said, I'm still in the break-in period. Maybe someone out there can explain to me why even the organic twin disc shudders when I thought this upgraded clutch would not have such an issue from the start. Can anyone confirm that even a 'softer' organic material twin clutch can/will chatter during break-in? Maybe because I have an aluminum vs. steel flywheel?? Anyway, I do enjoy the clutch and pedal effort but I simply hate the slight chatter from a start. This setup costs way too much to put up with this. I hope it goes away soon! Sorry for the long post.