Installed it this morning, switched over to DOT 4 fluid, bled it, and still won't go into second gear at WOT. This is by far the most frustrating manual car I have ever owned.
Still can't shift at WOT after JHR clutch line...
- Thread starter BPatterson
- Start date
Shifter and bracket still stock? Line fixes the clutch staying disengaged (pedal sticking to the floor). Shifter fixed being able to find each gear better and the bracket fixes the slop and also aids in going into gear
Try new motor mounts??
Explain what is happening and what kind of shifter you are running.
Barton shifter and bracket, JHR clutch line, DOT 4 fluid. When going for 2nd gear, it will not go in. I pull back as hard as I can, and after approx. 2 seconds, it finally goes in. I don't think the pressure plate is releasing. This is my second transmission. First one didn't do it, but then again, it only lasted 7500 miles. The second one is a brand new one from Ford, that now has 9000 miles on it. Clutch pedal doesn't stick to the floor, never has. Just won't go into 2nd gear during WOT shifts. Still has the helper spring on it.
i still have issues with 3rd but i dont think it has anything to do with the upgrades either. here next month when im on vacation im gonna get my car on the lift and pull the transmission to inspect the clutch to see if it has issues. but honestly i dont think its clutch either i think its just the design of the transmission and shifter. this remote shifter crap sucks and there will always be play somewhere which will cause issues. we picked stick cars so now we have to deal with it i guess. maybe a transmission swap to something that is face plated? wont miss gears with that :beer:
When you say wot I assume you are talking about your higher than stock redline due to the boss intake? If so I thought people were having issues with the stock clutch over 7200rpm. If you are willing to try them, I have motor mounts installed on my car, with my mgw shifter, motor mounts, jhr clutch line and dot4 fluid I can rip all gears, of course I am only shifting at 7k max, stock intake manifold.
i put in a mcleod rxt and problem solved. the other thing to focus on when your shifting fast is to keep your wrist relaxed. since the shifter isnt mounted on top like the older stangs you cant muscle it. we call it "***" handing it lol
but that stock clutch just doesnt want to help wot shifts
but that stock clutch just doesnt want to help wot shifts
:lol1:"*** handling" the shifter! I've never heard it quite called that, but I do agree that relaxing your wrist does in fact help.
I have the line and and MGW shifter and I still have occasional problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. I'm going to try to remove the spring next.
Out of all the manual performance cars I've owned, this one frustrates me beyond belief! I've always prided myself in my shifting skills. I was one of the first ones to put a bone stock LS1 f-body in the 12's, running a 12.94 @110 bone stock. I know this isn't a T56, but still.....DAMN!!!! lol
Also, I shift at 7500 with the Boss manifold.
Also, I shift at 7500 with the Boss manifold.
SicShelby09
Banned
This is troubling.
i think it may be an small issue not enough to get into panic mode about. pre JHR line, ive had no troubles shifting the car at 7400 on the stock manifold (no reason to do so but i wanted to do it for shits and grins). No issue post JHR line either.
Removing the helper spring next to see if that helps. I have doubts.
I have same issues with slicks on my car. I took my steeda bracket back off but left shifter on seems to be a lot better. Last week I thru an old set of drag radials on and had no issues at the track at all and managed to run within .1 of previous best on slicks. I did order a torque limiter setup from CHE Performance to see if it fixes concern. Im putting it on today and gonna go to the track on Friday to see if it fixes slick issue.
I think we both agree here! The mounts do make a difference. I have the same issue and cannot get into 1-2 but ONLY at the track!!! I think the stocker motor mounts have too much cushion and the motor completely torques and twists causeing the 1-2 shift miss.......
I also installed a new clutch line, DOT4 brake/clutch fluid, bleed the breaks, 75-90 RP trans fluid. Took it to the track and still had the issue!!! So I installed new motor mounts and the MGW but haven't gone to the track yet. But can wait to see if the new motor mounts fix the issue we are having.
This is turning Out to be a major issue for some of us M6 users
Does it only happen at the track?
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I've also had similar problems and have come to the conclusion we are boiling the clutch fluid.
The clutch/pressure plate heats up the slave cylinder and boils the fluid in the slave. Once that happens there is not enough fluid pressure to release the clutch.
The larger orifice clutch lines allow more fluid thru vs clutch pedal travel, but it does not solve the problem. It's a bad-aid at best IMO.
Depending on the DOT4 fluid used vs DOT3 you will raise the boiling point ~100 degrees, again not enough as I have already swapped out the DOT3 for DOT4 (475 degree boiling point) and still have issues.
Best I can do is pump the clutch like crazy after a burnout (fluid boils during burnout) and I can nail 3 gear changes with slicks dropping the hammer. If I was on DR's slipping the clutch, I doubt I'd be able to nail even the first gear change.
Once the rest of my new brake setup gets here I'll be doing another fluid swap, and even have a remote clutch reservior ready to install if needed.
Tilton makes TSR-1 brake fluid which is labeled as DOT4 and compatible with conventional DOT3/4, but it boils at 622 degrees! I'll be swapping the entire brake/clutch system over to TSR-1 fluid before the next track outing.
IMO this is yet another band-aid. The proper fix would be a Slave that is insulated from the heat of the clutch/pressure plate.
The clutch/pressure plate heats up the slave cylinder and boils the fluid in the slave. Once that happens there is not enough fluid pressure to release the clutch.
The larger orifice clutch lines allow more fluid thru vs clutch pedal travel, but it does not solve the problem. It's a bad-aid at best IMO.
Depending on the DOT4 fluid used vs DOT3 you will raise the boiling point ~100 degrees, again not enough as I have already swapped out the DOT3 for DOT4 (475 degree boiling point) and still have issues.
Best I can do is pump the clutch like crazy after a burnout (fluid boils during burnout) and I can nail 3 gear changes with slicks dropping the hammer. If I was on DR's slipping the clutch, I doubt I'd be able to nail even the first gear change.
Once the rest of my new brake setup gets here I'll be doing another fluid swap, and even have a remote clutch reservior ready to install if needed.
Tilton makes TSR-1 brake fluid which is labeled as DOT4 and compatible with conventional DOT3/4, but it boils at 622 degrees! I'll be swapping the entire brake/clutch system over to TSR-1 fluid before the next track outing.
IMO this is yet another band-aid. The proper fix would be a Slave that is insulated from the heat of the clutch/pressure plate.
just out of curiosity do the GT500s have a similar issue or since they have different tranny its a whole different setup?
:cryying:
I was at the track a few weeks back with a few customers. 2 of them have GT500's (07/08). One was having troubles missing gears. He reported that pumping the clutch after the burnout greatly helped shifting done the 1/4.
I was at the track a few weeks back with a few customers. 2 of them have GT500's (07/08). One was having troubles missing gears. He reported that pumping the clutch after the burnout greatly helped shifting done the 1/4.
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