Teksid block Vs Stock 03 Cobra block - pics iside

[MalcolmV8]

Hey Guys, so I read a lot about guys switching to teksid blocks and it's always a no brainer post. Swapped blocks lol. I assume it's because most have a shop or builder of sorts do it for them so they're unaware of what all went into the swap. In the process myself and here's what I've noticed so far and would like some feed back how some of it was tackled by those who've done this swap. Got a few pics too for those interested in just looking at the differences.

Black block is my stock 03 Cobra block
Aluminum colored block is the teksid

Front of the two

The teksid

The stock

Rear of two blocks

Rear of the teksid. Notice the shape of the rear plate is different. Make sure you get the rear plate from the teksid

Stock block

Teksid block has these two knock sensor bosses sticking up on top. The lower intake will not fit with them there. From what I gather you can just grind them down with an angle grinder and fix that issue.

The stock block valley area for reference

Nipple behind water pump on block on stock block has two orings and a slip type fit

Teksid had a barbed type fitting which you can see here smashed. I tried knocking it out with a block of wood and a hammer and just crushed it. Going to have to do more delicate surgery to get it out. Probably some heat and cut that mangled end off and possibly even drill it out.

Stock block has this extra bolt hole right by the driver's side motor mount that does not exist on the teksid block. Not a big deal but I had my J&S Vampire attached there. I will need to find a new place on the teksid.

The same view on the teksid for reference

Stock block has two shafts sticking out where the chain tensioners pivot. They are thicker than the threaded holes on the teksid block... assuming these are threaded on and not pressed on. I really don't know right now.

Same view on teksid. I know it's hard to tell in pics but the same holes on this block where those two shafts stick out are much smaller threaded holes.

Stock block has 4 bolt mains.

Teksid has 6 bolt mains. So different design. Won't be able to reuse my ARP main studs. Get new ones.

Teksid mains on the left. Stock on the right.

Different side bolts into the mains. Stock on left and teksid on right

Stock mains have this threaded end that you use an allen wrench to back out and pressure against the side of the block.

Teksid mains just have a thread in the side of the caps

Instead the teksid has the threaded pieces built into the block itself.

Back side where you can see the threads.

This timing bolt hole on the teksid block is in a different spot

Same bolt hole on the stock block.

As a result this hole on the timing cover has no where to thread into. Looks like a solid piece of block I can just drill and tap a thread into. Easy fix it seems.

Passenger's side of teksid for reference

Passenger's side of stock block for reference

Due to difference in main caps the stock windage tray no longer fits. It would have to be all cut up to make space for the extra bolts on the teksid

Perhaps some factory teksid blocked cars came with a windage tray and I just need to pick up one of those?

Any feedback on dealing with the differences is greatly appreciated.

Malcolm

 

[97snakebite]

cool post

 

[nopropslaw]

Racebronco has a lot of info on this topic. He helped me out.

 

[NMB2]

you can see in this pic everything that needs ground down to fit the blower lower:



The only other issue I ran into during install was the stock A/C pump bolts are too long and bottom out in the teksid block... I was unable to find suitable bolts locally, so I just made little spacers.

 

[NMB2]

as for the open hole, mine was left open, gasket seals it.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Nice comparison. I recommend the 3V windage tray. It's a actual full windage tray compared to the half length stocker. You'll need the appropriate ARP main stud hardware to make it work (which you are replacing anyway). It'll require light modifications to the oil pick up tube as well. Tasca sell the tray for $20 the last time I checked.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Here's some extra info for you with part numbers.

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/181430-Mofasta-s-BOSS-5-0-Build-Thread/page18

 

[Lstruck03]

lets not forget the most helpful difference.. the weight savings. I weighed both my factory block and a teksid, both .020 over bore, both bare with no mains, and they were exacyl 70lbs different.

The car brakes, accelerates, and turns so much better with the weight off the front end.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Racebronco has a lot of info on this topic. He helped me out.

I actually purchased the block from Racebronco. Maybe he'll jump in with some good info

you can see in this pic everything that needs ground down to fit the blower lower:

The only other issue I ran into during install was the stock A/C pump bolts are too long and bottom out in the teksid block... I was unable to find suitable bolts locally, so I just made little spacers.

Thanks for the pic and heads up on the A/C compressor. I'll mock that up shortly and see. Perhaps I can just cut down the stock bolts shorter. Depending on how the compressor sits on the block. I've had to spacer accessories in the past on old 302 projects, actually works quite well so that may be an option too.

as for the open hole, mine was left open, gasket seals it.

Sorry I got lost. Which hole?

Nice comparison. I recommend the 3V windage tray. It's a actual full windage tray compared to the half length stocker. You'll need the appropriate ARP main stud hardware to make it work (which you are replacing anyway). It'll require light modifications to the oil pick up tube as well. Tasca sell the tray for $20 the last time I checked.

Awesome. I was hoping there'd be a simple solution like that. I looked at the link you posted and he included part #s and the extra info of needing to remove those "wings" from the oil pan.

lets not forget the most helpful difference.. the weight savings. I weighed both my factory block and a teksid, both .020 over bore, both bare with no mains, and they were exacyl 70lbs different.

The car brakes, accelerates, and turns so much better with the weight off the front end.

Yes that is exactly why I'm doing this. Well I was changing up my combo and figured might as well lighten up the nose while at it. The difference in weight is unreal. I pick up that teksid block like it's nothing and move around the garage. The Romeo cast block is killing me, my back is going to hate me. I started using the engine hoist and chain to move it around the garage lol.

 

[SlowSVT]

Great post Malcolm

If you look at the main bearing bulkheads you will note the Teksid block are solid columns where the Romeo has a thinner wall which are webbed. It appears the Teksid uses jack screws similar to the Romeo I was always under the impression the caps registered directly to the skirts on the block. The Boss block lacks any kind of jack screw and the bulk heads are cast exactly like the Teksid. These motor should be coveted as the trend at Ford appears to be moving away from a mod friendly engines with the introduction of Plasma Transfer Wire Ark linerless blocks like the 5.8 and the new 5.2. Hopefully the 5.2 will accept a sleeve better than the 5.8 but either way scoring a cylinder will be taking on a whole new meaning if your dealing with a PTWA block :nonono:

 

[04whitesvtlight]

While you have everything apart I would highly recommend installing the upgraded timing chain guide dowl pins. The stock ones become an issue at higher hp levels and have cost a few people there build motors.

 

[MalcolmV8]

While you have everything apart I would highly recommend installing the upgraded timing chain guide dowl pins. The stock ones become an issue at higher hp levels and have cost a few people there build motors.

The very ones I point out in the pics above? I was not aware. Any links to where you get these upgraded versions?

 

[cj428mach]

http://www.cobraengineering.net/drill fixture.html

 

[P49Y-CY]

great pics :beer:

 

[MalcolmV8]

While you have everything apart I would highly recommend installing the upgraded timing chain guide dowl pins. The stock ones become an issue at higher hp levels and have cost a few people there build motors.

OK so I did a bit of reading up on that issue and it appears to be a problem on the aluminum blocks specifically. Just to clarify the cast iron blocks have a dowel that's pressed in and failures are not known on that setup. The aluminum blocks appear to have a very small M6 thread and tend to snap off and as you pointed out ruin a motor as the chain jumps a tooth on the sprocket.

http://www.cobraengineering.net/drill fixture.html

Thanks for the link. Those are nicer beefier M8 threaded units plus a fixture allowing straight (square) drilling and tapping of the holes.

One more mystery knocked off the list

 

[04whitesvtlight]

Yes that is correct it's not an issue with the iron blocks just the aluminum blocks and the cobra engineering stuff is top notch and it makes it possable to do everything with a hand drill by your self.

 

[99Cobra_vert]

You can use the windage tray from the '99/01 Cobras. I think I even have a few laying around here somewhere.

Jake

 

[MalcolmV8]

You can use the windage tray from the '99/01 Cobras. I think I even have a few laying around here somewhere.

Jake

Jake, PM me a price shipped to 64151. Thanks.

 

[Mystic03]

nice great info! i was gona do this with my cast block vs the new teskid i got but got it as a longblock so just threw it in my car..as far as i researched mainly for t56 can bolt right up to the teskid just as the 03block for the tranny side of it

 

[MalcolmV8]

Ground down the knock sensor bosses today. This was all the more they needed to be ground.

Mock up to make sure I had the needed clearance Even with no gaskets there was a good 1/4" plus between the lower intake and what's remaining of the bosses.