Those that have installed a whipple crusher...

MalcolmV8

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Well I've been in touch with Whipple and they confirmed the issue with air leaking by the TB. They said normally it only causes the idle to jump a couple hundred RPMS over stock and idle around 1000 rpm or so, however not 1300 or more like mine.
I'm amazed that's normal production and what they consider "OK". How can anyone be OK with that? Especially when it's a $600 TB.

Anyhow they are working with their supplier that makes the TBs to have him try and rebuild that first one they sent me. They said they're going to try and make a better fitting TB blade for it that will seal better and not have a high idle. So I'm happy they are trying to get my issue fixed and get me a TB that works.

I'll keep you guys posted when I get it or what else comes of it.
 

1320 Junkie

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Sorry to hear about your issues bud, trust me if I could fit a dragon tb on this inlet I would have, dragon by far was the best single blade I ever used, I'm not fond of running a return spring on my tb but it works well so I'm not going to play the shipping game that u have going on right now....hope the next one fixes ur issue.
 

MalcolmV8

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Just spoke to Whipple and my original TB has been repaired with a lapping compound. When speaking on the phone I got the impression it was some sort of compound they added to the edge of the blade to create a seal. He mentioned it's heat proof etc. and should seal now.

After getting off the phone with them though it looks like it's just a grinding compound so now I'm thinking they used it to smooth out the blade and get a good seal.

Either way it's already shipped and hopefully I'll have in a few days and then we'll see what the car does.
 

MalcolmV8

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Just received my THIRD throttle body from Whipple today and it's the best yet but still not right. Car idles around 1250 RPMS or so with it and with a throttle return spring it idles at 1000 ~ 1100 rpms. I have to reach under the hood and force it closed tightly with my hand to get the idle to drop around 800 rpms.

Oh and to get the 1000 RPM idle I had to turn my TPS sensor all the way back till it read 0.89 volts key on engine off. WAY down from the 0.98 my tuner told me it should be set at.

This third throttle body I can see they did some grinding and smoothing on the edge of the TB blade to try and make it seal better and it does seal better but not perfect. You can still see some light shining through if you hold it up to the light and I still get a high idle with it. Just not as bad.

I'm surprised others don't have this problem too. Could I have something else playing part in this issue? When I force close the TB the idle drops down like it should but maybe X amount of air should be escaping by the TB and I have something else causing it? Although the stock TBs seal perfect. I'm just out of ideas other than sending this back to Whipple yet again. I'm starting to think they are unable to get these to seal any better than it does.
 

1320 Junkie

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Just received my THIRD throttle body from Whipple today and it's the best yet but still not right. Car idles around 1250 RPMS or so with it and with a throttle return spring it idles at 1000 ~ 1100 rpms. I have to reach under the hood and force it closed tightly with my hand to get the idle to drop around 800 rpms.

Oh and to get the 1000 RPM idle I had to turn my TPS sensor all the way back till it read 0.89 volts key on engine off. WAY down from the 0.98 my tuner told me it should be set at.

This third throttle body I can see they did some grinding and smoothing on the edge of the TB blade to try and make it seal better and it does seal better but not perfect. You can still see some light shining through if you hold it up to the light and I still get a high idle with it. Just not as bad.

I'm surprised others don't have this problem too. Could I have something else playing part in this issue? When I force close the TB the idle drops down like it should but maybe X amount of air should be escaping by the TB and I have something else causing it? Although the stock TBs seal perfect. I'm just out of ideas other than sending this back to Whipple yet again. I'm starting to think they are unable to get these to seal any better than it does.

Pm me your address ill send you a tb spring like I have and hopefully it cures your idle issues, my car is dead nuts perfect with this spring, without it mine hangs at 1250 also...my tps is at 2.00 counts in sct ...or 1v. I'll do my best to help u fix your issue. My little brother is a mechanical engineer and he said the flat edge of these tb's make them hang open you need to double the force of the air at idle , he did some math and I found the proper pressure spring, and it works 100%. The dragon tbs don't have this issue at all because of the rounded blade it uses hence why I didn't even need one until I went with the whipple brand tb. It's a NASCAR spec spring they use on the cup cars.

Jay
 
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MalcolmV8

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Pm me your address ill send you a tb spring like I have and hopefully it cures your idle issues, my car is dead nuts perfect with this spring, without it mine hangs at 1250 also...my tps is at 2.00 counts in sct ...or 1v. I'll do my best to help u fix your issue. My little brother is a mechanical engineer and he said the flat edge of these tb's make them hang open you need to double the force of the air at idle , he did some math and I found the proper pressure spring, and it works 100%. The dragon tbs don't have this issue at all because of the rounded blade it uses hence why I didn't even need one until I went with the whipple brand tb. It's a NASCAR spec spring they use on the cup cars.

Jay

I appreciate the offer and I'll probably take you up on it because I'm out of ideas/options right now. Here's from my other thread that I just updated with tonight's tests. Fits for here so I'll paste below.

OK guys. Here's my tests tonight.

Car fully warmed first.

Battery cable pulled for 15 min.
Fire up car and it idles at 1500 ~ 1600 rpms.
Unplug IAC and it drops to around 1100 ~ 1200 rpms (or just leave car idling for a long time and ECC learns to close IAC and idle comes down to a best of 1100 ~ 1200 rpms due to air passing in TB.

Battery cable pulled for 15 min.
Seal throttle body blade this time like this with some putty
IMAG1302_resized.jpg


Fire up car and it idles perfect at 800 ~ 850 rpms.
Pull IAC and the motor dies immediately (very good, tells me IAC was controlling idle).

I don't see how that can be ANYTHING but the throttle body. I guess I will call Whipple in the morning for my 4th throttle body.

Assuming worse case and they can't fix this is there an alternative brand that does work that's the same size that will fit on the 2.9 crusher?

Thanks
Malcolm
 

1320 Junkie

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I appreciate the offer and I'll probably take you up on it because I'm out of ideas/options right now. Here's from my other thread that I just updated with tonight's tests. Fits for here so I'll paste below.

OK guys. Here's my tests tonight.

Car fully warmed first.

Battery cable pulled for 15 min.
Fire up car and it idles at 1500 ~ 1600 rpms.
Unplug IAC and it drops to around 1100 ~ 1200 rpms (or just leave car idling for a long time and ECC learns to close IAC and idle comes down to a best of 1100 ~ 1200 rpms due to air passing in TB.

Battery cable pulled for 15 min.
Seal throttle body blade this time like this with some putty
IMAG1302_resized.jpg


Fire up car and it idles perfect at 800 ~ 850 rpms.
Pull IAC and the motor dies immediately (very good, tells me IAC was controlling idle).

I don't see how that can be ANYTHING but the throttle body. I guess I will call Whipple in the morning for my 4th throttle body.

Assuming worse case and they can't fix this is there an alternative brand that does work that's the same size that will fit on the 2.9 crusher?

Thanks
Malcolm

If u use your hand to close the blade with the car running does the idle drop? If so my return spring will cure your issue...same symptoms mine had if that works.
 

MalcolmV8

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If u use your hand to close the blade with the car running does the idle drop? If so my return spring will cure your issue...same symptoms mine had if that works.

Yes it does but you have to force the blade closed really hard. I have a variety of throttle return springs on my work bench of various sizes and I came up with a combo that actually does pull the throttle body closed and idle normal but they are applying to much force the bracket that supports the throttle cables was starting to bow forward and pushing the gas pedal felt like I was pushing in a clutch. It was not drive-able in that state at all. Any less of a spring pressure to where you could work the gas pedal was not enough to hold the idle down. My TB just leaks to much air.

Damn, for the price of these kits i thought it would be better designed. Having second thoughts about it now

I agree. I certainly didn't expect these sort of issues for the kind of money it cost. So far whipple has been working with me and trying to fix it though. I just hope they can get it resolved.
 

1320 Junkie

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Yes it does but you have to force the blade closed really hard. I have a variety of throttle return springs on my work bench of various sizes and I came up with a combo that actually does pull the throttle body closed and idle normal but they are applying to much force the bracket that supports the throttle cables was starting to bow forward and pushing the gas pedal felt like I was pushing in a clutch. It was not drive-able in that state at all. Any less of a spring pressure to where you could work the gas pedal was not enough to hold the idle down. My TB just leaks to much air.



I agree. I certainly didn't expect these sort of issues for the kind of money it cost. So far whipple has been working with me and trying to fix it though. I just hope they can get it resolved.

This is a case of completely faulty hardware then, u should not need a spring that heavy....all the trouble shooting in the world isn't going to fix that kind of issue. I did however immediately feel that whipples tb spring was much lighter than the dragon I was using on the stock inlet, this return spring made it feel just like my dragon. Best of luck , u should definitely get a completely new tb and start over.
 
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sprsonic

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hey malcolm, is this 90 elbow one of the elbows supplied in the kit from whipple. i called lethal and asked them about fitting the hose from the valve cover to the air charge tube and was told that whipple does'nt have a connection for that. i tried a small breather but it hits the tube. and i like the way yours is installed.
 

MalcolmV8

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IMAG1160_resized.jpg


hey malcolm, is this 90 elbow one of the elbows supplied in the kit from whipple. i called lethal and asked them about fitting the hose from the valve cover to the air charge tube and was told that whipple does'nt have a connection for that. i tried a small breather but it hits the tube. and i like the way yours is installed.

It's actually the stock valve cover tube that normally went to the intake tube. I just cut it down and turned it around and made it work with the Whipple intake.
 

sprsonic

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It's actually the stock valve cover tube that normally went to the intake tube. I just cut it down and turned it around and made it work with the Whipple intake.


sorry, i meant the 90 degree elbow that connects the stock elbow to the whipple inlet. looks like a vacuum hose 90, maybe like the ones supplied in the whipple kit.
 

MalcolmV8

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sorry, i meant the 90 degree elbow that connects the stock elbow to the whipple inlet. looks like a vacuum hose 90, maybe like the ones supplied in the whipple kit.

Yes that's from the supplied 90 in the whipple kit. In fact page 3 of this thread has detailed pics of me setting that up and how I modded that 90 degree piece.
I think this link will take you directly to the post on page 3
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...installed-whipple-crusher-3.html#post11365923
 

MalcolmV8

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Well there was two. The second one is on the underside of the tube so it's hidden from view for a clean look. It's for the IAC, the other one on the side is for the valve cover.
 

sprsonic

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did you end up using the one for the air iat sensor? i understand the new slot style sensors have a temp sensor in them, i installed my old temp sensor too.
 

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