Those that have installed a whipple crusher...

[MalcolmV8]

did you end up using the one for the air iat sensor? i understand the new slot style sensors have a temp sensor in them, i installed my old temp sensor too.

No. The two 90 degree elbows coming off the intake tube are used for the IAC motor and the passenger's side valve cover vent.

You are correct the slot style mass air sensor has a temp sensor in it and there's no need to re-use your old temp sensor. If you go back in this thread I posted step by step pics of how to wire up the slot style temp sensor into our wiring.
Go back a few pages and you will see it. The stock mass air meter has 4 wires coming out of it. The slot style has 6 because two of them are for the air temp sensor. You basically just wire those into our harness where the old temp sensor used to wire up.

 

[VenomSVT03]

I just installed my crusher today and noticed the same slack on the throttle cable. Did you guys ever found a fix for that or just left it alone? My gas pedal is really low

 

[black03]

I just installed my crusher today and noticed the same slack on the throttle cable. Did you guys ever found a fix for that or just left it alone? My gas pedal is really low

I went under the dash and bent the pedal on my car. Doing so took up all of the slack and everything runs great.

Jared

 

[VenomSVT03]

Well damn, i had my tuner come down to my house to fix the idle issues and we found out i had the same issue with the TB getting stuck like all you guys. It idles at 1100-1200 and when you push on the TB the idles goes down to 950 or so. So its definitly the TB. I really dont wanna ship this thing back and forth to end up with the same results. Looks like a return spring might be the solution, i just need to find one that works best. Im shcheduled to go on the dyno thursday and i really wanna get it figured out before then, i dont wanna go when the car is not 100% ready

 

[MalcolmV8]

Well damn, i had my tuner come down to my house to fix the idle issues and we found out i had the same issue with the TB getting stuck like all you guys. It idles at 1100-1200 and when you push on the TB the idles goes down to 950 or so. So its definitly the TB. I really dont wanna ship this thing back and forth to end up with the same results. Looks like a return spring might be the solution, i just need to find one that works best. Im shcheduled to go on the dyno thursday and i really wanna get it figured out before then, i dont wanna go when the car is not 100% ready

No throttle return spring required. I fixed mine and got it from 1600 rpms down to the 1100-1200 rpms like you have now by tinkering with the hardware as in TPS set correctly, idle screw set correctly on TB etc. Then from 1200 rpms to 850 RPMS was in the tune. You have to make changes in the tune as I've learned because the mono blades do not seal like a factory round circle TB.

I have another thread titled something like "do all mono blade throttle bodies leak?". Search for it, lots of info in there on how I fixed my idle.

Also let me point out that if you can push on the TB (just as I used to) and get the idle to come down that means the TB blade is contacting the housing of the TB and getting stuck as you mentioned. It should not. You need to adjust the TB idle screw out so that the TB blade never hits the housing when it closes. It should come really close, as close as you can get it to close without sticking. The idea behind this is that the TB needs to close to a consistent spot each time and never vary. Once you have that right your car is going to be idling at say 1200 RPMs and when you go under the hood and press on the TB to try and close it and drop the RPMs nothing should happen. It should be firmly against the TB idle screw and not move. Now you have the blade always closing in consistent spot.

Next set your TPS to around 0.95 volts. Manual states 0.95 to 0.99 volts. I personally found the closer I was to 0.95 the better results I had. You will have to slot the holes on the TPS to achieve this.

Your car will still be at 1200 rpms but now that you have the TB in a stable and correct closing spot and the TPS set correctly you can drop it to 850 RPM idle in the tune.

Idle air integrator needs to be correct in tune as well as idle spark and it will idle at 850 RPMs. I know I did it personally

Search for that other thread and hopefully the info above gets you in the right direction.

EDIT - the other thread I was talking about http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...de-throttle-bodies-have-high-idle-issues.html

 

[VenomSVT03]

I got it to where it idles steady between 1350 and 1400, i adjusted the set screw and added a return spring to be sure. It no longer gets stuck and when i push on it the RPMs dont go lower so i got that under control. I dont know how to set the TPS like u mentioned, and i dont think i can do it on my predator anyways. Ill let my tuner mess with that comes thursday i guess. You also mentioned something about slot the holes on the TPS, what do you mean by that? How did u do it?

 

[VenomSVT03]

Well hotdamn. I decided to flip the IAC, facing down (i had it just like u Malcom) and as soon as i started the car it idled perfect right at 850 like i used to have it before the crusher, no more high idle no more sticky TB. Car runs perfect again. It does touches the strut tower, im not sure if the other members who have it like this, RobertP and Jay had the same problem. I hope it doesnt affect or break anything

 

[MalcolmV8]

Mine does face down. Did you flip it so it's pointing up towards the hood? I've been told they are directional but I've never tried flipping and running it that way.

 

[VenomSVT03]

I had it like this, so i had to flip it, although mine touches the strut tower, im not too crazy about that. How about yours?

 

[MalcolmV8]

I had it like this, so i had to flip it, although mine touches the strut tower, im not too crazy about that. How about yours?

Oh it has to face down from what I'm told. Mine presses in pretty hard against the a/c line and strut tower too. I've called Whipple on it, sent them detailed pics and explanation. Never get a response. I eventually gave up, they clearly don't care.

 

[mtdubvee]

I know this thread is very old, but I just installed my 2.9 crusher and I have the same throttle cable slack. Cable was perfect for the 2.3 with Accufab SBTB.

What did you guys do to fix it? Mine is not broke.

I saw where Jared bent his pedal. Any other fixes?

Thanks
Matt

 

[BO TY KLR]

I know this thread is very old, but I just installed my 2.9 crusher and I have the same throttle cable slack. Cable was perfect for the 2.3 with Accufab SBTB.

What did you guys do to fix it? Mine is not broke.

I saw where Jared bent his pedal. Any other fixes?

Thanks
Matt

I found since my car has the recall bracket under the throttle pedal, it was keeping me from opening throttle 100%. Wasn't an Issue when I had 2.2 kenne bell because their cable bracket on top of blower had about an inch of adjustment. You are probably going to have to bend pedal rod back some to tighten up slack.

 

[mtdubvee]

Well I put about 4 washer under each pedal mounting stud and it helped some but not enough.

I guess I'll bend the pedal.

Do i just need to bend the top of the pedal (where the cable attaches) forward to take up the slack?

You guys use a torch or anything or can it be done by hand?

Thanks

 

[MalcolmV8]

I found since my car has the recall bracket under the throttle pedal, it was keeping me from opening throttle 100%.

Ah so that's what was causing the differences between cars. Thanks for the info.

 

[mtdubvee]

2.9 Whipple Crusher IAT

I'm trying to keep everything in this original crusher install post.

New issue.

I bought the MAF sensor pigtail from lethal for my new slot style MAF. No worries.

My old MAF plug appears to have both grey wires already in it, but I also have the IAT plug that has both gray wires in it.

Now the IAT ( two gray wire plug) was connected when my 2.3 and stock intake tune was on here before I pulled it off to install the crusher. Weird my Mass air plug already has the two gray wires.

So my question is, what do I do with The IAT plug now since my factory MAF sensor plug already has the two end gray wires in it?

Help!

A picture is below.

Thanks
Matt

 

[MalcolmV8]

I'm trying to keep everything in this original crusher install post.

New issue.

I bought the MAF sensor pigtail from lethal for my new slot style MAF. No worries.

My old MAF plug appears to have both grey wires already in it, but I also have the IAT plug that has both gray wires in it.

Now the IAT ( two gray wire plug) was connected when my 2.3 and stock intake tune was on here before I pulled it off to install the crusher. Weird my Mass air plug already has the two gray wires.

So my question is, what do I do with The IAT plug now since my factory MAF sensor plug already has the two end gray wires in it?

Help!

Thanks
Matt

I posted up how to wire this in detail with pics on page 3 of this thread. Summed up you get rid of the external temp sensor and use the one on the slot sensor.

 

[BO TY KLR]

Yea I wired my temp into new slot type maf also. Have seen some guys just drill a hole in plastic tube and mount the original sensor in inlet tube.

 

[mtdubvee]

Well I read your post on that, but my stock Mass air sensor plug already has the two gray wires on each end.

So I was just wondering if I even need the IAT plug since my MA plug already has those wires in the harness, where your plug did not.

Not sure why mine harness has those already and yours didnt.

Should I wire the IAT plug into the gray wires in my MA sensor plug anyway?

 

[MalcolmV8]

Well I read your post on that, but my stock Mass air sensor plug already has the two gray wires on each end.

So I was just wondering if I even need the IAT plug since my MA plug already has those wires in the harness, where your plug did not.

Not sure why mine harness has those already and yours didnt.

Should I wire the IAT plug into the gray wires in my MA sensor plug anyway?

Check the two extra grey wires on your MAF plug and see if they are connected to the two on the external IAT plug. Someone may have wired yours in the past. If they are the same then you can simply cut off the old IAT plug or just tuck it away in the fender well and you're good to go. If not you may need to trace those two grey wires on your MAF plug and see where they go. If that's to much work you could just cut them and wire the external IAT wires into there.

 

[mtdubvee]

Thanks man. That should take care of it.