I keep reading different things are needed. I plan on doing the Steeda Sport because I want a mild drop. I chose it over the P springs because I want the backend to settle down a little bit for a more level look. I know I will need a panhard bar to re-center the rearend. What else is a must? I read I need new FRPP GT500 strut tower mounts? New struts? I heard the rubber bump stops need to be replaced? Not sure what all is a must on a mild drop?
Time to drop the car.. what is really needed?
- Thread starter Badlilstang
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I used Steeda Ultralites when I dropped my '12. I used Koni STR.T struts with the GT500 strut mount and Eibach camber bolts. I did not touch my bump stops and 5k later I still have no problems. I did install an adjustable panhard bar. Afterwards I took the car to get an alignment and the shop said the front was in spec...I don't remember the numbers....if it had been out I would have done the caster plates.
You can only get GT500 mounts if you go with 05-10 struts/shocks. If you are careful the stock mounts shouldn't fall apart and are fine to use for a while. Mine have about 25k miles on them after getting P springs and they are just now making noise. With the Steeda's you may need camber bolts depending on what camber you get. P springs gave me 1.6 which I have been told is fine if the rear is aligned correctly, which Ford didn't do. You might also want to look at LCA's and relo brackets to get the most out of the drop.
If you are not going to replace the OE struts and shocks, then you will need to buy a new pair of OE strut mounts, as those are one time use. You will also need an adjustable panharb bar.
I would recommend that your go away and purchase new struts and shocks that way you don't have to worry about disassembling the factory spring/strut setup. Just makes it easier. GT500 mounts will onyl be required if the struts are meant for 2005-2010 Mustangs.
I would recommend that your go away and purchase new struts and shocks that way you don't have to worry about disassembling the factory spring/strut setup. Just makes it easier. GT500 mounts will onyl be required if the struts are meant for 2005-2010 Mustangs.
I would really like to get away with my stock struts for a while if possible. So it sounds like I should only need springs, panhard and possible some camber bolts???
You will need camber bolts, unless you don't mind being out of spec on your camber.
If you want to do the bare minimum: Springs, Panhard Bar and Camber Bolts.
If you want to do it the "right way": Springs, Panhard Bar, Camber Bolts, Shocks/Struts and Strut Mounts.
AmericanMuscle has 2011+ Koni STR.T Struts that won't require the GT500 strut mounts. As others have said, as long as you are careful when doing the install, you should be able to re-use the stock mounts. Some will say to replace the stock mounts with GT500 mounts anyways just because it's not an expensive upgrade and can easily be done while installed the other parts.
If you want to do it the "right way": Springs, Panhard Bar, Camber Bolts, Shocks/Struts and Strut Mounts.
AmericanMuscle has 2011+ Koni STR.T Struts that won't require the GT500 strut mounts. As others have said, as long as you are careful when doing the install, you should be able to re-use the stock mounts. Some will say to replace the stock mounts with GT500 mounts anyways just because it's not an expensive upgrade and can easily be done while installed the other parts.
Just springs and PHB are needed, no camber bolts. :nonono:
If you really want it done the "right way", you get caster/camber plates instead of camber bolts.
OP, as you can see by the last two responses to my post, there is apparently no cut and dry "right way" to do it lol
which is it, no camber bolts at all...or go above and beyond the camber bolts with caster/camber plates? Given that those two responses are on complete opposite ends of the spectrum, it's really easy to understand how and why "what's really needed to lower my car" threads pop up every other week.
which is it, no camber bolts at all...or go above and beyond the camber bolts with caster/camber plates? Given that those two responses are on complete opposite ends of the spectrum, it's really easy to understand how and why "what's really needed to lower my car" threads pop up every other week.
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Exactly!!! I am going to do springs and panhard for now. Next year I can go replace all the struts/shocks and strut mounts. Local stang shop told me don't even bother with the bolts.. they said 1" isn't much and they can get me back in spec. He said if I start going lower is when he suggests caster camber plates.
BMR springs, got a BMR on car adjustable PHB and an alignment. That's all.
Don't need new strut mounts. Factory work fine. Mine never came apart. I also have lower control arms and relocation brackets waiting to go on. I had them on, but put factory stuff back on after I broke 2nd gear. Never really got a chance to put them back on.
Don't need new strut mounts. Factory work fine. Mine never came apart. I also have lower control arms and relocation brackets waiting to go on. I had them on, but put factory stuff back on after I broke 2nd gear. Never really got a chance to put them back on.
Either route depends on your end goals, and the parts you will be using. Most people have found that lowering these cars 1" or less still gives you the ability to retain enough camber adjustment with the factory hardware as well as not worry about an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rear end. Anything over 1" can be hit or miss on both ends. Camber bolts will give you plenty of room for adjustment needed, but are also a weak link if the car is going to be subject to VERY HEAVY track action (road course or AutoX). On a daily driver car, camber bolts should suffice perfectly fine. Caster/camber plates are mainly for those that will need multiple adjustment margins.
I'm installing coilover in the next few weeks on my Boss. I will have the Boss shocks with the P spring for sale very soon. It will also come with camber bolt.
Thank you.. my car has 3k miles on it.. I hope it doesn't come apart when I do mine lol. I was thinking BMR but im afraid my rear tires will rub. I am running wheel replicas FR500 20x10 with a 295x35R20... Any idea if rubbing will be an issue?
Anything different about the boss shocks vs the regular GT?
With the BMR springs, your car will look totes magotes.Thank you.. my car has 3k miles on it.. I hope it doesn't come apart when I do mine lol. I was thinking BMR but im afraid my rear tires will rub. I am running wheel replicas FR500 20x10 with a 295x35R20... Any idea if rubbing will be an issue?
My rear tire is 27.66" (275/40/19) and I still have a good 1+" of room between the wheel and fender.
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