Tracking an 03-04 Cobra

03 DSG Snake

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03 DSG snake I noticed my cobra doing the same thing,getting hotter stopped so I hot wired the intercooler pump with inline switch and put a fan in front of heat exchanger so water wasn't getting hot sitting in the motor.Made a big differance,if someone had a small generator and use a bigger 120Volt fan it's even better.Just my 2 cents worth.We were using a heat gun to see how hot the water was comming from motor after 10min's & it was 140F+,turn on pump and good fan and back to air temp. in 2 min's.Generator and dyno fan,you could watch the motor water temps drop the water from intercooler was cooling so fast.

I was actually thinking of something similar, although dragging out a generator and a fan seems like it would be a pain in the ass.

On track at speed the temps are fine, but after the first trip back to the pits it is hard to get it back down to normal temps without a significant amount of airflow through the H/E. I think a pair of H/E fans + running the IC pump might do the trick.
 

racebronco2

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I really don't think keeping the temps down at idle or while the car is sitting will do anything while you are on track. The first lap is a warm-up anyways and by the time you are ready for your first timed laps it down to normal running temps anyways. Of cousre i could be wrong.

byron m, not sure if it was written wrong or i am reading it wrong. You are saying the intercooler is helping your engine temps go down with a generator and a dyno fan? The fan in front of the heat exchanger will also cool the radiator which is why the engine temps went down.
 

SVT_Troy

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I thought the fans would help at low speed and in the pits? Why are you thinking about removing them?

I've read from multiple people (people worth listening to) that it does more bad than good. It actually restricts air passing through at speeds even though it does pull in air if sitting still. Plus I'm not sure mine is working. It can get up to temp and the fans never turn on. Is it operated off of temps or always supposed to be on?
 

racebronco2

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I've read from multiple people (people worth listening to) that it does more bad than good. It actually restricts air passing through at speeds even though it does pull in air if sitting still. Plus I'm not sure mine is working. It can get up to temp and the fans never turn on. Is it operated off of temps or always supposed to be on?

I'm not sure how your fns work but on Vans system they turn on when the intercooler pump turns on.
 

SVT_Troy

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I'm not sure how your fns work but on Vans system they turn on when the intercooler pump turns on.

Interesting because I have my pump in the tank in the rear. I'll have to check the wiring and see what's goin on with it cause I've never seen them on. Just noticed it once I put my Aero force gauge on and started monitoring temps. But fans on or not my charge temps are to high at freeway speeds...
 

KILRSVT

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I have done several OT sessions at Infineon for the most part all of my track days were in cool weather. Now I have OT in the heat and my alternator took a crap during the 3rd session. I don't have the head cooling mod. I do have an afco heat exchanger with dual fans and a whipple along with a custom tune which has less timing on 7 and 8 and dumps a little more fuel for cooling. Also I'll run 100 octane of I track it on a hot day haven't hit limp mode yet
 
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Sniperdog

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Is having a KB w/600 rwhp gonna be a concern? I'm going to Sebring on the 16th of this month with some viper buddies, and don't want any unexpected problems, getting new high temp brake fluid, new race only pads for the event. I am pumped!!
 

racebronco2

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Is having a KB w/600 rwhp gonna be a concern? I'm going to Sebring on the 16th of this month with some viper buddies, and don't want any unexpected problems, getting new high temp brake fluid, new race only pads for the event. I am pumped!!

If you run the car hard stock it will limp mode in 80+ degree weather. You will need to pull some timing and richen up the a/f, that will help a little. Run with the heater on with the heat coming out the dash and away from you. You will need to keep an eye out for high engine temps and shift one gear higher then normal to keep the rev's down. The lower the rev's the less heat is created. Even if you do have a bigger radiator, h/e etc they will only allow you to run a little longer before the fluids get too high.

You should wait til the last minute to start your car so the fluids don't get up to temp that way you will be able to run a little longer. You can hook up a switch to run your fans in the hot pit before you go out also.

You might want to bring an extra pulley. On my whipple at 15psi my ait2's were 170*, went down to a 12psi pulley and ait2's temps only were 140*. Did not change the tune but i was 3 degrees less then what is best and a/f was high 10's.
 
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Sniperdog

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I usually run a 3.1 pulley.,. @19-20 lbs depending on out side temps, in this heat prolly about 18lbs, I think I have a 3.4 pulley I could use :)
 

SVT_Troy

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If you run the car hard stock it will limp mode in 80+ degree weather. You will need to pull some timing and richen up the a/f, that will help a little. Run with the heater on with the heat coming out the dash and away from you. You will need to keep an eye out for high engine temps and shift one gear higher then normal to keep the rev's down. The lower the rev's the less heat is created. Even if you do have a bigger radiator, h/e etc they will only allow you to run a little longer before the fluids get too high.

You should wait til the last minute to start your car so the fluids don't get up to temp that way you will be able to run a little longer. You can hook up a switch to run your fans in the hot pit before you go out also.

You might want to bring an extra pulley. On my whipple at 15psi my ait2's were 170*, went down to a 12psi pulley and ait2's temps only were 140*. Did not change the tune but i was 3 degrees less then what is best and a/f was high 10's.


this is what I plan on doing, when i do make it out to the track. but I am going to stop by my tuner to get him to change the tune for me.
 

Sniperdog

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speaking of tracking my 03.,., it has rear coil overs.,. any recommendations on spring rate for a 14 in spring???
 

wheelhopper

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I can't remember the length of my rear springs, but I know I was using a 575lb rate. That was the stiffest that MM recomended with the stock shocks. Ideally for best handling on the IRS Mustang a better shock should be used and a more like a 625-650lb rear spring rate should be used.

Of course make sure your front spring rate is set up to work with your rears or it does not matter what the rear is.
 
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Sniperdog

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I can't remember the length of my rear springs, but I know I was using a 575lb rate. That was the stiffest that MM recomended with the stock shocks. Ideally for best handling on the IRS Mustang a better shock should be used and a more like a 625-650lb rear spring rate should be used.

Of course make sure your front spring rate is set up to work with your rears or it does not matter what the rear is.

That rate is for coilovers??? :eek:


Sent from Riddla's massive Johnson
 

sonic cobra

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I am running 375# frt and 600 Rear. Front springs are 10" rears are 8".
Not optimum on the track but any more and it becomes a race car and not very comfortable on the street.
 

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