Trans mount stiffening. Without whiteline bushing... (how-to inside)

[Ron Mexico]

Nothing against whiteline, but this is the way to go.

 

[nosympathy]

He was asking because people were having issues with vibrations being fed from the cross member into the floor that you could physically feel, and I mean feel.

Sucks I'm still waiting on my Whiteline bushing. I may just try this method and see what happens...

but the question is...can it be reversed back to an open mount?

Curious about this. I am assuming not? Not sure that is a big deal, but just curious since I have never worked with this material before.

 

[konabluekiller]

Nothing against whiteline, but this is the way to go.

I agree

Curious about this. I am assuming not? Not sure that is a big deal, but just curious since I have never worked with this material before.

As I stated above. No its not reversible. You are basically making a solid rubber mount instead of having three big holes in the stock one. You want to reverse it and go back to a floppy transmission??? Buy another stock mount.

 

[konabluekiller]

BTW I've also swapped to an MGW and i have dot4 fluid in my hydraulic system. Was having major shifting issues to 2nd and third while spraying, which are pretty much eliminated.

 

[dirtyd88]

I'm going to go ahead and try the Whiteline first. If I get the floor NVH, then I'll do this route and sell the bushing

 

[blackbeast12]

Are you saying this stuff isn't pliable after it drys? Can you physically move your tranny around afterwards?

 

[dirtyd88]

Are you saying this stuff isn't pliable after it drys? Can you physically move your tranny around afterwards?

I'm sure it has some durameter to it, but probably not. That much.

 

[konabluekiller]

I'm going to go ahead and try the Whiteline first. If I get the floor NVH, then I'll do this route and sell the bushing

That makes no sense.... They do the same dang thing, they will make the same noise if there even is going to be a noise. Anything that stiffens a weak rubbery part on the car, has the possibility of creating nvh. Just like swapping rubber suspension bushings for poly.

 

[konabluekiller]

Are you saying this stuff isn't pliable after it drys? Can you physically move your tranny around afterwards?

It dries into Poly... So basically it turns a flimsy rubber mount that has a bunch of gaps in it, into a solid poly mount almost. Same freaking thing as what the big black poly bushing does from whiteline, but you squirt it out of a tube, instead of just sliding in a $50 chunk of rubber.

 

[dirtyd88]

That makes no sense.... They do the same dang thing, they will make the same noise if there even is going to be a noise. Anything that stiffens a weak rubbery part on the car, has the possibility of creating nvh. Just like swapping rubber suspension bushings for poly.

Yeah, I honestly have no idea what I was saying there...I fell asleep sometime around that time and apparently I posted that when I was not exactly aware of what I was doing...

 

[NickSezz]

3M 5200 Should do the trick for you guys wanting to go this rout. I would remove the stock mount completely and fill the voids on a work bench using the OPs method. Re-install after it cures for 24 hours.

I have been using this stuff to seal the pumps on Jet Skis for years. It can be messy to work with but is very durable stuff.

 

[twistid]

What is the viscosity of Window Weld before it has dried? Will it run everywhere or is it like putty that you can form? I might try this this weekend, but if I start squirting the Window Weld into the voids I don't want it to start running and dripping everywhere lol.

 

[ragingclue]

I used PL S30, works just as well and is $5 a can, enough to do a few mounts.

Is that alright for the heat of the application? MSDS says it's flash is at 89C (~192F), is that something to even worry about? I'd imagine it's not considering it's not a particularly enclosed area, right? The MSDS for the Window Weld and 5200 mentioned in the thread don't seem to have any heat concerns listed. I'm just not sure how hot the area gets.

 

[dirtyd88]

I highly doubt that the actual PL S30 would reach that temp. It's not directly touching the trans casing, and you have airflow passing under the car while you are shifting and driving.

 

[ragingclue]

Yeah true, that's a pretty high temp to start with.

 

[Ron Mexico]

I'm picking up the lock tite stuff from Home Depot and doing this. Sounds like you just remove the crossmember, put something behind the mount, squirt the stuff in, and smooth it out with a spackle knife.

 

[cbrtrx]

Is that alright for the heat of the application? MSDS says it's flash is at 89C (~192F), is that something to even worry about? I'd imagine it's not considering it's not a particularly enclosed area, right? The MSDS for the Window Weld and 5200 mentioned in the thread don't seem to have any heat concerns listed. I'm just not sure how hot the area gets.

I have no issues with it at all, it dries to a softer consistency then window weld which is what I wanted as well. My trans has no movement at all now as it could easily be moved around before.

Remove mount and tape one side, squeeze in product then scrape excess. Let it sit for 24 hours then reinstall.

If you are worried about any nvh just fill the side voids and not the bottom.

For $5 I think its a good mod and you'll have enough to do your buddies mount as well.

 

[ragingclue]

Yeah I just picked some up as well, for a few bucks it doesn't seem like a bad idea.

 

[konabluekiller]

Yeah window weld is thick enough that it stays where you put it. You can squirt it in(making sure there's no air voids and using some sort of backer). After you get it nice and filled just use a puddy knife to smooth it out. Window weld doesn't get hard as a rock, but its way harder than the stock mount and like I said its poly, just like many of the suspension bushings you might change to

 

[gottoast]

Anyone have any picture of before and after? I haven't crawled under my car yet but just can't picture it...

Thanks-
Khris