Click the YouTube video, fill up those holes. Bingo
Trans mount stiffening. Without whiteline bushing... (how-to inside)
- Thread starter konabluekiller
- Start date
I replaced my clutch line this morning and noticed you can fill in the two triangular voids without having to remove the crossmember.
Might be a good first step just to fill those two in if you're worried about nvh. You can always drop the crossmember and fill the middle void if you want moar.
Hats off to whiteline but their bushing is not worth three lap dances.
Might be a good first step just to fill those two in if you're worried about nvh. You can always drop the crossmember and fill the middle void if you want moar.
Hats off to whiteline but their bushing is not worth three lap dances.
Hey ron i thought you had a tremec!
My whiteline bushing is on its way so I'm sticking with it besides over the long run synthetic elastomer is better then polyurethane in every category!
I was going to buy 1 of these but some reporting high NVH gave me an idea like others on here.
Was going to cut to size some rubber bungees and squeeze it in the voids.
then I found a big piece of foam like maybe used to keep electronics from shifting in a box. Like this
but the pores are very fine and it takes a bit of strength to squeeze, it's more like dense rubber foam and I could not break it with my hands. I cut it with a serrated steak knife, looked like venison dense, cut 3 pieces to fit and with some superlube shoved them in, they're not coming out.
Anyways, the trans shifts a good bit better, you don't have to pay attention, just shift. It still balks sometimes going into 1st but not like it used to, @redline 2nd goes in every time, 3rd locked out once on me before ok now.
I think just putting a little pressure on the trans with the jack and taking the crossmember off and putting back on may even have done something, the very faint whine in 3rd, 4th on accel. has quieted by ~50%
Was going to cut to size some rubber bungees and squeeze it in the voids.
then I found a big piece of foam like maybe used to keep electronics from shifting in a box. Like this
but the pores are very fine and it takes a bit of strength to squeeze, it's more like dense rubber foam and I could not break it with my hands. I cut it with a serrated steak knife, looked like venison dense, cut 3 pieces to fit and with some superlube shoved them in, they're not coming out.
Anyways, the trans shifts a good bit better, you don't have to pay attention, just shift. It still balks sometimes going into 1st but not like it used to, @redline 2nd goes in every time, 3rd locked out once on me before ok now.
I think just putting a little pressure on the trans with the jack and taking the crossmember off and putting back on may even have done something, the very faint whine in 3rd, 4th on accel. has quieted by ~50%
I wonder if you can speed up the drying process with a heat gun? I would like to do this, since you can't find a Whiteline anywhere, but I drive my car daily. That is why the Whiteline appeals to me. It is in and done in 20 mins.
Mike
Mike
The PL S30 smells like puked up chocolate. Overall this is a real easy job, just have to wait now for it to dry before dropping the car back down. 24 hours should do, right?
I can't wait to buy this stuff now and plan to use ramps so it's already compressed.
I've used window weld on other vehicle motor mounts it works very well and is very durable.
I drove mine home after it sat 2 hours.... Just drove it easy. Let it sit over night, then beat the piss out of it in the morning. I bet getting it warm on the drive helped it cure... BTW mike.. I'm working in Louisiana close to where you are I think....
I tried looking for it can you post a link?
Great idea and for us lazy people that is a good option.
Doing this Tuesday. Going get this Loctite PL S30 10 fl.-oz. Black Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant-1675273 at The Home Depot
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Aisle 3 at Home Depot. I saw PL S40, though. Is that better?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-8609?seid=srese1&gclid=CLn7ttfc4bkCFUVp7AodQRkACA
That's what I used...
That's what I used...
When I was doing my cat-deletes I decided to take a quick look at this as well. I can confirm you have full access to the two triangular voids without removing anything at all. So if you don't feel like having to support the tranny and drop the crossmember you just just jack the front end up and squeeze in the window weld into the two triangular voids.
I will probably end up doing this.
Did this over the weekend with the PL-S30 and I'm really wondering some things about the Whiteline mount. I noticed the bushing is under a good deal of compression while at rest. So, filling the holes with a really hard compound, shaped to fill the holes completely when the bushing is uncompressed.... I don't know, maybe I'm not getting something here, but it seems like if you're going to go with a real hard compound, you'd want it to be closer to the size/shape of the holes while under normal resting compression. I thought about this about mid-way through the drying of the compound, then went and bolted it back up to see just how much of the stuff got squeezed once compressed, and I have to say it was a fair amount. At what point, if inserting a harder poly to fit the holes as uncompressed, are you actually pushing your transmission upwards? Or am I missing something?
Any shifting impressions?
If I do this, I'm going to fill the 2 voids with the front wheels on ramps and the crossmember attached so it's already compressed.
I'm not sure what's placebo and what's real at this point because I haven't really gone and hammered on it yet. I have a pinion seal leak (which may simply be a symptom of something worse), so I'm going easy on it until it goes in on Wednesday. Plus I think the stuff said it takes an entire week to cure.
So far, it does seem smoother, like I'm fighting less to find the gate in certain scenarios. It seemed really good before already; the MT-82 experience is much better after the braided clutch line, MGW with track bushing, and helper spring delete, but sometimes it still seemed a bit like the gate was moving around on me. Doesn't feel as bad now, but like I said, I have not beaten on it properly yet. Plus I'm not running FI or nitrous, so my symptoms would not be nearly as bad in the first place as it would be for the guys running more power.
EDIT: Forgot to add that I feel absolutely zero increased NVH. Then again, I did use a softer filling and compressed it before it dried, so it's not exactly the most hardcore setup in the first place. But zero added NVH.
So far, it does seem smoother, like I'm fighting less to find the gate in certain scenarios. It seemed really good before already; the MT-82 experience is much better after the braided clutch line, MGW with track bushing, and helper spring delete, but sometimes it still seemed a bit like the gate was moving around on me. Doesn't feel as bad now, but like I said, I have not beaten on it properly yet. Plus I'm not running FI or nitrous, so my symptoms would not be nearly as bad in the first place as it would be for the guys running more power.
EDIT: Forgot to add that I feel absolutely zero increased NVH. Then again, I did use a softer filling and compressed it before it dried, so it's not exactly the most hardcore setup in the first place. But zero added NVH.
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What you are wanting to do is help give the bushing better compressive resistance when the motor and trans deflect under load, both lateral and torsional. By filling the voids in the uncompressed state, you are giving them the ability to provide a higher resistance when loaded. For example, when you are running the motor up to redline, by having a bushing that dried uncompressed, you are giving the bushing/void the ability to want to remain in it's normal state, so it helps to negate any torsional deflection because it "pushes" back against any torsion from the trans. This helps keep everything lined up and working properly. By compressing the bushing before drying, no anytime the bushing is subject to torsional loads and deflections, you could possibly be putting the voids under a tensile stress, but how much, if at all significant, is a toss up.
The whiteline is a great idea, but I think the fact that it's simply an insert, and not a full found hurts it a little. You still have differential translation between the bushing and the insert, since they are still two separate pieces.
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