Upgrading would break what?

[Addicted2Fun]

So,

Short and to the point, I am buying an 03/04 Cobra (dont have one yet). Preferably, stock as i can get it with little mileage on it. Know that this will be a DD and MIGHT see a track 1-2 a year probably on nitto's that i will have for the DD.

I want to do the following upgrades:
Nitto's on rear tires
CAI
TB
Pulley (2.74 ((i think)) )
headers
H pipe (cause it sounds awsome)
CB
Gates belt (heard that is the best one to counter slipping)
100mm idler
Considering the stage IV port job (does this help the ticking issue? for those long pulls)
lowering the vehicle 1.4F 1.5R (i think the SS kit)
and tune
(what hp/trq should i expect)
(list if you feel that i have missed anything)


Basically my question is --- doing these mods what am i expected to break if i dont necessarily do something, also will it still feel like im driving a stocker (until i punch it)???? I get it if you do a really long 3 or 4 gear run i could run the risk of practically melting something. How do i counter that? These are the questions i am trying to get answered. Seems as everyone has the heat issue. What are your thoughts? i am newbie to the cobra and trying to suck up all the information possible before i start getting crazy with it. Any and all information is appreciated.

Thank you,

Addicted

 

[04cobra13]

dont want to bust your rear so get yourself a billet flow IRS brace asap!! Cheap insurance, also you want to stay away from 5th-6th gear pulls not 3rd n 4th.. Also id invest in a set of some good DRs to reduce wheelhop which can cause breakage..Good luck!

 

[blackmagicmach]

also you might...... just might want to upgrade to a 26 spline input shaft of the trannie.... and like the dude above me said the irs brace is also a great idea....

 

[antiv6]

with a port youll need, injectors, maf, and bap
id probably get the head cooling mod and a h/e for cooling

 

[HandoZiZle]

The only thing i can see breaking from the list above would either be your clutch/tranny or the rear end. But as long as you don't wheel hop too much, you should be good.

 

[SicStang03]

read sig... Never had any major issues

 

[Jomo1994z71]

my sig

 

[thomas91169]

Considering the stage IV port job (does this help the ticking issue? for those long pulls)

no, the tick is due to the coolant not flowing well in the back of the heads. During a long-term pull (like 4th to 5th) it heats up ALOT in the rear. This leads to the infamous lifter tick.

The way to alleviate flow is to do a head cooling mod.

Ported blowers will help the eaton be more efficient.

 

[thomas91169]

btw i forgot to put what upgrading breaks most:

Your Bank.

 

[CobraBob]

Here's is some good information relative to the tick issue. http://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm#_Toc35092459

You mentioned the Gates belt being a good choice to reduce slipping. Actually the key is not the brand belt but the proper size and having optimal belt travel with additional idlers. I preferred the Goodyear Gatorback belt but others prefer Gates. Once you decide on your setup, my Belt Selection Guide might help you pick the proper size belt. http://stangshiftergaskets.com/belt_selection_guide.htm

Best of luck with your Terminator.

 

[davidm]

the driveshaft is a weak point as well...more than the rear end. no need for the brace it wont help...just dont wheel hop

 

[xenodragon]

no need for the brace it wont help...just dont wheel hop

Ummmm?? My pumpkin cracked without the brace and no wheel hop...it tends to shift with all the TQ...so the diff is a big weak spot

 

[svt2ner]

Full length subframes add to your list.

 

[Jroc]

the driveshaft is a weak point as well...more than the rear end. no need for the brace it wont help...just dont wheel hop

I disagree 100%. A IRS brace is a must have mod. It is a great piece of insurance. Not wheelhoping is not an option on a mostly stock rearend unless you are running DR's or you don't get down on your car hard in the first 2 or 3 gears. Also I have never heard of any DS problem other than there being a lot of looseness in its U Joints along with all the other part in the drivetrain. I think it was pretty cool of Ford to put basically a almost $300 FR aluminum DS on the Terminators as a factory piece.

I would add some good FLSFC's to your list as they help out greatly. I run MM ones and they work great, but an thinking of having them cut out and getting the ones from Griggs.

 

[torchanniv03]

+1,000,000

on the irs brace and the head cooling mod!! around 100-150 on each piece, but both are vital in helping to save your motor and rear diff from tearing up....

 

[AaronK]

I agree with most everything stated above. In order from most important to least important

Diff Brace
Head Cooling Mod
Sub Frames
Sub Frame bushings with 14mm bolts
Heat Exchanger
26 spline Input shaft

I've had very bad wheel hop and not broken an axle yet (I've been very lucky so far) but I have broken my input shaft. It's no fun. So if you ever replace the cltuch, just go ahead and replace the input shaft with a 26 spline while you're at it. JMO of course.

the driveshaft is a weak point as well...more than the rear end. no need for the brace it wont help...just dont wheel hop

:dw::nonono:

 

[Alpha]

Check sig....no probs

 

[96stanggt]

You shouldn't have any problems with reliability. Some preventive and supporting mods couldn't hurt, but aren't always necessary. With the mods you have planned you will probably need a MAFia for fuel mods, injectors and BAP shouldn't be needed if you're not going to spin the blower harder than just an upper. FLSFC are a nice mod to help stiffen the car up and prevent squeeks and rattles. The IRS brace isn't a bad idea, but I don't think its near as important as some people make it out to be. I have 53K on the car with almost 200 track passes and no issues with the rear diff, with no brace on the car. The port will help lower IAT's significantly which contrary to what Thomas said above will help prevent a cooling problem as it makes the charge temp after the blower much lower. The headcooling mod has been debatable for years as to whether it helps or not, seems people tend to get "the tick" with or without the cooling mod. It just comes down to how hard you run the car and how hot it gets.

 

[Evan5469]

Skip the TB and the headers. With the mods you're doing they aren't really worth the dough or the possible headache. When you get your Eaton ported, get the TB and plenum ported also. Definitely pick up an IRS Brace and MM Full Length Subframes. And depending how low you want the car, the H&R SS springs may be a bit too low. A lot of people have the race springs which don't lower the car as much but you don't have to worry as much about scraping and it still looks good.