Very annoying high pitch whine after driveshaft installation, HELP pls.

grnenvy

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Dude its the DS and I have been telling everyone on this site for years that the 1 piece DS cause this. The relocation brackets aren't the problem. I have tested all the rear end pieces and the uppers and lowers plus the DS will cause a lot more NVH. If the gears in your car are installed properly I don't care if u have 4.30s in it they shouldn't make noise. Pull the DS and your problem will be fixed.
Now recently I have installed a DSS DS which has been the best DS I have tried so far. I have had 3 in my car. It did take me 2 tries to get it clocked right until it stopped vibrating. Plus its the quietest by far.
Good luck
 

sean04

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as soon as I did the 1 piece drive shaft my rear end started whining like no other. I have the 3.73's and it starts around 45mph and goes away above 80

its all give and take with these cars. you just have to decide what you can and cant live with. put a louder exhaust on it :)
 

burke985

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as soon as I did the 1 piece drive shaft my rear end started whining like no other. I have the 3.73's and it starts around 45mph and goes away above 80

its all give and take with these cars. you just have to decide what you can and cant live with. put a louder exhaust on it :)

Yeah same here , my 3.73's actually hummed a little but wasnt really noticeable, after the driveshaft there was a symphony coming from the rear. I switched my gear oil to amsoil severe gear and it took out some of the lower rpm whine around town but its still the same on the interstate and its only on decel not while your on throttle in my car. I can live with it for now the 3.73's are probably going to have to come out anyway when the vortech goes on
 

UnleashedBeast

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I have swapped back my tranny fluid thinking it might have been the cause without success. The Amsoil fluid did not cause my trans to start whining.

Good information, thank you for this. I am curious, Ford may have used another one of their special "additives" to quite down the transmission the same way they would quiet the tick in the engine. I really want to know what was so different about the OEM fill of the transmission that made it so quiet.

It's no secret that the Getrag is a noisy design, which is why Ford originally used 75W-90 manual transmission oil on the first run of 2011 GT's. This fluid was too viscous, causing a lot of grinding issues. Ford swapped the fluid for the extremely light DCT fluid. This seemed to work well, however, a few people have noticed a whine in the gear box after swapping the fluid.

Makes you wonder, what was special added in the OEM fill?

On the flip side, it's added NVH from the rear differential since adding a 1 piece shaft, then I think a carbon Fiber driveshaft may solve that issue.
 
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01bluesnake

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Ya, i know the upper control arm and DS depending what kind can transmit some pretty good NVH. When i ran my Dynotech, i got no change in sound from the rear end, but had stock control arms in place at the time. I also have 3.31 gears, so very low gearing and wont emit high resonance like higher gear ratio's.
 

UnleashedBeast

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You'd be surprised how much gear noise the 8.8" actually creates from the factory. You'd never hear it until the new poly bushing upper control arm is installed. My 2009 GT500 rear end was dead silent, until I added the upper. I could hear a slight high pitch whine from the rear end after that.
 

01bluesnake

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Ya, they are pretty noisy with solid bushings, but never got heavy gear whine, just some light noise. I guess i'll see how bad it is this week with the new setup. I have a Steeda spherical housing bushing, with spherical upper and lower arms bushings on the axle side, then poly's on the body with the Dynotech DS going back in lol.
 

jojobee

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You'd be surprised how much gear noise the 8.8" actually creates from the factory. You'd never hear it until the new poly bushing upper control arm is installed. My 2009 GT500 rear end was dead silent, until I added the upper. I could hear a slight high pitch whine from the rear end after that.

I already had a BMR uca with poly bushing and yes it was a little bit noisy. With the addition of the driveshaft i now drive a futuristic vehicle. Still not convinced that its normal, everyone with a one piece driveshaft would definitely complain about this otherwise.
 

01bluesnake

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Have you checked to make sure nothing is rubbing on the driveshaft, like the over axle pipes where the driveshaft sits between at the pinion flange. I just can't imagine it being that loud with just the addition of the DS. Maybe pinion angle is way out and loading the CV joint very bad?
 

jojobee

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Have you checked to make sure nothing is rubbing on the driveshaft, like the over axle pipes where the driveshaft sits between at the pinion flange. I just can't imagine it being that loud with just the addition of the DS. Maybe pinion angle is way out and loading the CV joint very bad?

I did check and nothing rubs, the more i think about it the more i think its the gear noise being over amplified now.
 

jojobee

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Ya, i know the upper control arm and DS depending what kind can transmit some pretty good NVH. When i ran my Dynotech, i got no change in sound from the rear end, but had stock control arms in place at the time. I also have 3.31 gears, so very low gearing and wont emit high resonance like higher gear ratio's.

Ive heard this before but why are 3.31 gear quieter than 3.73.
I already have too much power 600/525 for 3.73 so i might just switch to 3.31.
I already have the Amsoil max gear + additive waiting to be put in.
 

jojobee

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Yeah same here , my 3.73's actually hummed a little but wasnt really noticeable, after the driveshaft there was a symphony coming from the rear. I switched my gear oil to amsoil severe gear and it took out some of the lower rpm whine around town but its still the same on the interstate and its only on decel not while your on throttle in my car. I can live with it for now the 3.73's are probably going to have to come out anyway when the vortech goes on

Similar story here, will add the Amsoil and switch to 3.31. I had this planned already but if that my fix then ill get the gears this week!
 

jojobee

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Dude its the DS and I have been telling everyone on this site for years that the 1 piece DS cause this. The relocation brackets aren't the problem. I have tested all the rear end pieces and the uppers and lowers plus the DS will cause a lot more NVH. If the gears in your car are installed properly I don't care if u have 4.30s in it they shouldn't make noise. Pull the DS and your problem will be fixed.
Now recently I have installed a DSS DS which has been the best DS I have tried so far. I have had 3 in my car. It did take me 2 tries to get it clocked right until it stopped vibrating. Plus its the quietest by far.
Good luck

In my case there is no vibration whatsoever all the way to 140+. I heard that the harmonics were different with dss carbon ds, not sure if its better or worse.
 

wikdlx

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The whine could be from the gears an the 2pc was suckin up the noise but with the 1pc an no rubber could all the nosie to transfer for you to hear

this is the correct answer! My 2013 Boss did the same thing.....chassis ears lead me to the source


congrats to Ford on a shitty initial set up of the ring and pinion
 

jojobee

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this is the correct answer! My 2013 Boss did the same thing.....chassis ears lead me to the source


congrats to Ford on a shitty initial set up of the ring and pinion

How did you fox it ?
Open the case, swap fluid and reset everything or swap gear...
 

jojobee

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Ok guys, i have made more tests and definitely need more help from some of you with knowledge in suspension geometry and pinion angles

1) I have swapped fluid and it was not the cause of the whine

2) The whining/turbine noise is only audible when the car in in drive and moving, gears dont matter. Its immediately audible from very low speed and increases until the exhaust covers it.

3) With the car on candles and the rear suspension unloaded the noise isnt there.

4)When the car is moving and i release the gas thus relieving the pressure on the drivetrain the whine diminishes quickly

4) Now what does that mean..when the rear suspension is loaded does that change my pinion angle. According to my shop they set they angle at -2.
Is this correct for my setup?

5) This started immediately after in installed a Dynotech ds and BMR relocation brackets
Could this affect my geometry and pinion ?

6)Since my ds is not vibrating at all could it still be my pinion angle that is incorrect ?

7)Last my rear tires are 1in taller than stock and i'm lowered 1in on P springs.
The second hole was used on my BMR relo brackets, i dont see how this could cause the noise.


So guys help me out what do you think it is, i dont believe the ds alone could change the harmonics so much.

My next step is to look for that noise on a dyno with the suspension loaded and play with the pinion but i am not convinced.

I'm open to ideas cause this is very annoying :(
 

blackbeast12

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The noise was already there, it was just hidden by the stock rubber you had. The oem driveshaft has a 9 lb weight on the end of it designed to remove this noise. Now that you have upgraded to harder bushings, the new driveshaft has no provision for harmonic dampening so you have noise. I have the same problem only i have a shaftmasters driveshaft. There is only 1 aftermarket aluminum driveshaft that is engineered to remove noise and vibration that these cars are plagued with from the factory and that's a dss drive shaft..read this from the dss site.

I have one on order and will update you when i get it in!

For the last 6 years we have been chasing an elusive thing, we have been trying to make a driveshaft for the new Mustang (S197) that is not only the strongest shaft out there, but also the most stable shaft when it comes to dealing with the harmonic vibrations that these cars are plagued with. In our opinion these cars were rushed to market with a harmonic vibration in the drive train. This is very obvious as the stock 2-piece 43lb anchor of a driveshaft that came installed in the car to help cure the problem. For those who are not aware, the rear of the factory shaft has a 9lb steel dampener inside of the tube (see picture) helping to make it so tremendously heavy.

Over the last few years we have tried a few different types of shafts. First we tried a steel shaft and they had more of a harmonic vibration. We then moved onto the Explorer/Ranger style male and female aluminum slider shaft with decent results, but the success rate was not as high as we wanted. We then even went as far a making our own male/female slider that also allowed us to give you the stronger 1350 series u-joint on both ends with a supplied pinion yoke for the differential.

Just to bring you into our world a little bit, we here at DSS go about things a little different than
most Drive shaft companies. Most shaft companies buy the separate Shaft parts, they put them together and send them out the door. We are a full 22,000 sq. ft machine shop and manufacture a lot of the parts that we use, so when it comes to having trouble with a particular part we have not only the engineering in house to review the problem, but also have the machines to make the parts needed to correct these problems.

So going back to the slider, we went ahead and produced a female slider and it was considerably better than the Ford Explorer/Ranger type, but we still had some cars that had a stability problem, so we went even further. During this time we had taken delivery of a new type of balancing machine (show machine). This was a custom built machine that our owner Frank had spec'd out with the company's engineers, and were told the machine would take 3-4 months to make. Well, one and half years later we took delivery of the machine (3/2010) and a whole new world was opened up. Most are not aware that a balancing machine normally does not spin a shaft at the actual speed that the shaft will be spinning at, (click here for more about this) and to make a long story short, this new balancer has the ability to spin a shaft at any speed we want from 10RPM right up to 9500RPM (and everything in between). This balancer has enabled us to see the male/female slider type shaft become unstable at certain speeds and helped us to understand that we needed to take a different direction to make the shaft correctly.

What may come as a surprise to some is that we actually had the CV style driveshaft pictured in our 2009 Catalog, expecting the arrival of the new balancer. We wanted to wait to make sure that it was as stable as we had hoped by testing it in the new machine and that is why it was not used before now. Some time has passed and we were not only able to test the shaft in the new balancer, but we have given these shafts to a few chosen, well known shops for testing. The results are in, and every single car has been flawless. We were able to achieve exactly what we wanted, the best balanced shaft without the problems associated with the harmonics problems of a slider and strength without compare.

The Shaft will retain the factory 6-bolt CV mount, so we have eliminated the problems associated with changing out the pinion yoke, and we have supplied a plate to convert the stock rear CV flange to fit a modified version of a 108mm CV that will be able to move in and out with suspension movement. We didn't stop there though, the original spline going into the 108mm CV is still a small 28 spline, similar to a C4 transmission output, so we decided to make the stub section ourselves using a new 300M material that we have been getting out of Sweden. This material is the same used in our record setting axles on many 8 second drag/street cars. We are also using a special boot and grease combination to ensure longevity of the CV. This, along with the 3.5” 6061-T6 aluminum and 1350 front u-joint, makes this the strongest shaft available for the platform with no clearance issues.
 

jojobee

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The noise was already there, it was just hidden by the stock rubber you had. The oem driveshaft has a 9 lb weight on the end of it designed to remove this noise. Now that you have upgraded to harder bushings, the new driveshaft has no provision for harmonic dampening so you have noise. I have the same problem only i have a shaftmasters driveshaft. There is only 1 aftermarket aluminum driveshaft that is engineered to remove noise and vibration that these cars are plagued with from the factory and that's a dss drive shaft..read this from the dss site.

I have one on order and will update you when i get it in!

.
Thanks.

I totally agree with everything here but the fact is that nobody beside dss would sell ds if it was that bad.

I always tought that with proper pinion adjustment all the major driveshaft manufacturers were good.

I cant imagine Axle Exchange, Dynotech delivering ds knowing it will wine like crazy.
 

blackbeast12

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Think of it this from a harmonics standpoint none of the driveshaft companies except dss test there products with the aftermarket parts we are going to install on our cars, therefore they cant know how their products noise will react to other manufacturers parts. In other words its a crap shoot! We know these cars make noise that needs to be silenced by rubber, and weights, otherwise these cars would come with poly bushings! I think the harmonics of the driveshaft are being amplified by the parts you added. I have no doubt that if you removed the relos that noise would subside or reduce. My point is, the noise is always there and some parts amplify it more then others! I had a whiteline uca that failed i replaced it with a steeda uca mount and i used the same pinion settings and the noise and vibration are louder now!
 

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