What engine oil to use in 04 Cobra?

[TVSCobra]

Go with 5w-30. 10w-30 is to thick for the tighter clearances in these engines

Have you ever look at viscosity of the oil at operating temp and compared them? There are lots of 5w-30s that are thicker than 10w-30s at operating temp, however the real difference in them it the thickness at 0 degrees. They are all tested at 0 degrees c and 100 degress c.

Check out:
www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[evil04svtcobra]

someone needs to do some tests, and make an offical thread on this subject... then make it a sticky!

 

[Ralo]

I will be doing my first oil change soon and it will be Royal Purple or Mobil 1

 

[fudgerunyard]

There are a ton of threads on here answering your question.

I just read all of them last Sunday:beer:

After all the research I did, I decided to go with 0w-30 Castrol Syntec. It's what's known as German Castrol since it's made in Germany and is a true synthetic. Most US made "synthetics" are oil based and thus not truly synthetic at all.

A lot of my research also made me decide to run 7 quarts rather than the factory recommended 6.

MOBIL 1 is no longer a true synthetic ever since they quit using a Group IV base stock. It is now considered a Group III oil, which is still damn good, but not a true synthetic.

German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Amsoil, and Redline are the only "true" synthetics left, though i'm not sure about Royal Purple.

Here's a quick rundown on the various Group Bases and what they mean...

Group I is a fractionally distilled petroleum that is further refined with a solvent extraction purpose to help with oxidation resistance and to remove wax.

Group II uses fractionally distilled base stocks and then is hydrocracked to further refine and purify.

Group III base stocks are hydrocracked even further than group II base stocks so that the viscosity index is higher with a lower wax content.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). which is a true" synthetic oil base stock that is artificially synthesized

Group V are base stocks that do not fall into group I-IV

When you add it all up Group 1 and II are typically considered mineral oils with Group II having an additional step of hydro cracking for added purity.

Group III is considered to be a synthetic except in Germany and Japan. Why? Look back at the Group descriptions Group III base stock is the same as group II but hydrocracked further thus it is still a mineral oil just further refined. Most of the synthetic oils sold in the US are actually Group III oils

 

[R3dn3k Flyby]

MOBIL 1 is no longer a true synthetic ever since they quit using a Group IV base stock. It is now considered a Group III oil, which is still damn good, but not a true synthetic.

German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Amsoil, and Redline are the only "true" synthetics left, though i'm not sure about Royal Purple.

Here's a quick rundown on the various Group Bases and what they mean...

Group I is a fractionally distilled petroleum that is further refined with a solvent extraction purpose to help with oxidation resistance and to remove wax.

Group II uses fractionally distilled base stocks and then is hydrocracked to further refine and purify.

Group III base stocks are hydrocracked even further than group II base stocks so that the viscosity index is higher with a lower wax content.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). which is a true" synthetic oil base stock that is artificially synthesized

Group V are base stocks that do not fall into group I-IV

When you add it all up Group 1 and II are typically considered mineral oils with Group II having an additional step of hydro cracking for added purity.

Group III is considered to be a synthetic except in Germany and Japan. Why? Look back at the Group descriptions Group III base stock is the same as group II but hydrocracked further thus it is still a mineral oil just further refined. Most of the synthetic oils sold in the US are actually Group III oils

This covers what I was referring to. I said "most" US synthetics so I didn't have to explain any more than what I did.

Recent reading has taught me that there are at least 3 oils from Castrol that are euro made and are truly synthetic, but the 0w-30 is the only one that is readily available via Autozone and the others are too thick to run in our cars. That may or may not be true since I didn't investigate a ton once I learned that they are 50 and 60 weight.

From what I've read, Royal Purple base is Group III, while the racing Royal Purple is IV or V. AmsOil and Redline are true.




+eleventy billion to whoever mentioned bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Brutal Metal]

*

You guys wanna talk about Shells ROTELLA T? The "Miracle" Oil?

Yup Rotella T throw it in before a Dyno run and expect bigger numbers than previous, my friends Dyno Shop see's it on a weekly basis, 4-6 HP increase with no other changes, Nobody has an explanation.. I like the "Miracle Oil" name it's fitting..
And Valvoline SynPower is a Group IV Synthetic too!

 

[Kevin the Clean 1]

I broke the car in with (I know I know an old concept but still) 5W-20 & at the 3rd oil change went to 5W-30. I'm still running a synthetic blend since the car only has 10.5K on it. But, I do realize these motors run hot so I like to use the (better & more stable at high temps) 30 weight... ;-)

 

[04sleeper]

I run 5W-30 Ford Synthetic Blend.

This is what the engineers had in mind when they designed our engines as far as tolerences and protection.

Because of the Federal Government Ford switched to 5W-20 to meet CAFE standards.

Read below: :read:

Here are the facts behind 5W-20:

Question: My owners manual species 5W-20 oil. Do I really need to use 5W-20 oil and why did my 2000 model year vehicle require a 5W-30 oil, while the exact same engine in my 2001, 2002 and newer engines "requires" a 5W-20 oil?

Answer: You do not need to use a 5W-20 oil. Do not let your dealer scare you by telling you that you have to use it for your warranty. That is a tactic that some dealerships use to scare customers. Once you know the facts and the Federal Magnusson Moss Act law you will be much better informed to protect your rights and use the type of oil you want to use.

The main reason 5W-20 was specified for your engine is to increase the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the Federal Government. CAFE is the combined average fuel economy of all of a vehicle manufacturers product line. Minimum CAFE levels are specified by the Federal Government. In order for a vehicle manufacturer to continue selling profitable large trucks and SUV's, which typically have poor fuel mileage ratings, as compared to smaller cars, and still meet mandated CAFE requirements, they must also sell enough of the smaller cars which have much better fuel economy ratings to offset the poor fuel economy ratings of the larger vehicles. For model year 2001, the change to a 5W-20 oil will allow Ford and Honda's overall CAFE to increase by a very small amount, typically in the tenths of a mile per gallon range. 5W-20 oil is a lighter viscosity than a 5W-30 oil and therefore has less internal engine frictional losses, or less drag on the crankshaft, pistons and valve train, which in turn promotes increased fuel economy. This increased fuel economy is virtually undetectable to the average motorist without the use of specialized engine monitoring and testing equipment under strictly controlled test track driving when compared to a 5W 30, 10W 30 or a 0W 30 viscosity motor oil.

 

[Digital]

I would really like to see a push or the rotella T synthetic. I hear amazing results and if we could get some people to try running it I think we would see the same results.


They have 5w30 in regular and 5w40 in synthetic...

 

[Brutal Metal]

I wished Rotella had a 5W30 version of Synthetic, I wonder if the 40 weight is too much?

 

[mustang_guy]

Seems like 5w30 is the way.
What brand oil would you guys recommend? Ive been using mobil1 on all my stangs.

Also my 04 Cobra has 15,500 miles on it and has been on standard 5w20 engine oil from Ford but I want to switch to synthetic. Is it ok to switch at the milage Im at?

 

[BlackBeauty44]

I have ran Royal Purple in every mustang i'n ever had including in the transmission and rear end and have had 0 problems. I highly recommend the product. Also stick with what Ford calls for which is 5w-20

 

[BlackBeauty44]

bump

 

[Shadowfax]

According to Sean Hyland Motorsports, who build and race theses modular motors, the bottom end might be safe with thicker oil, it's the valve lash adjusters that need the proper viscosity. The bleed down rate of the adjuster was designed to use specific viscosity. There are 60 lb springs in the 03 04 cobra adjusters. Use oil that's too thick and you can actually pump the valve right off the valve seat, especially if you're running the engine into higher rpm's. If you race and are consistently into the 7 - 9000 rpm range with a purpose built engine, you'll want to use even thinner oil. Almost all should use the recommended oil in the owners manual.

 

[KILRSVT]

providing the info above^^^ has anyone in here ever pump the valve out the seat?
using a thick viscosity like 10-30 or something in that range?

rp 5-30 here

 

[Bruha]

I use the same. 5w20 Mobil 1

+1 me too

 

[evil04svtcobra]

http://www.stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm#_Toc35092346
Based on Cobra’03’s extensive research on this subject, here are the suggested lubricants:
”Amsoil 0w30 Series 2000, Amsoil 5w30, NEO, Motul Ester 300, and Red Line 5w30 or 5w20 (it's lubricating qualities make it a safer bet than a mineral 5w20 for the Nervous Nancy’s out there). Lesser but still high quality are Mobil 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil synoils. I do not think much of Syntec or Castrol domestically - their Euro-spec oils are very good. In mineral oils, Pennzoil PZL Turbo 10w30 is a great lube, but I believe it is either on the verge of or has been discontinued. If you drive your car on nice days, and never at temps much below 20 degrees F, 10w30 spec oils, esp. synoils, have even greater shear stability than 5w30. If you are at the borderline of sunny day only use, go for the 5w to be on the safe side.”
Note that there is no harm in using synthetic oil in the Cobra, despite what SVT says on the subject. See the following post for more information on this subject: Truth about 5w20 oil and why SVT says no synoils - SVTPerformance
Next, no “snake oil” products, such as Slick 50, Prolong, etc., should be used in the Cobra. For information as to why, please see the following post: Slick50? - SVTPerformance
Finally, the following post will be helpful in understanding the additives in engine oil: A primer on oil additives - SVTPerformance

If you're looking for a ton of FAQ information about motor oil, here is an excellent source. Just a mouse click away. BobIsTheOilGuy

 

[chitowncobra]

redline 5w 20 6.5 quarts in motor!!! redline gear oil w/ my 4.10s and redline D4 ATF in the T-56 and D4 ATF for the power steering and of course redline water wetter for engine coolant and intercooler!!! as you can see i am hooked on redline products!!!!!!!:lol::lol::lol:

 

[03dsgcobranc]

Ive been using Amsoil 5w-20 since Ive had the car. Even when I drain the old oil it still looks good.

the oil should look dirty at oil change time, not like new oil or it's not doing its job cleaning

 

[ZZR]

Nothing but 10w30 full synthetic in mine.