Eh, screw the locking header bolts. Pain in the ass and take forever to install correctly (the teardrop locking type, right?) and they still come loose anyway (and they're way expensive). Just use lock washers instead of regular washers under the bolts. You can get them at Tacoma Screw (8mmx1.25mmx45??I can't remember the length, might be 55) with 8mm lock washers for like $1. Just make sure to get the silver, stainless steel ones and NOT the hardened black ones, because those won't expand with the heat as much and can cause unnecessary stress on the heads (could seize later, too). Tiny bit of antiseize is good, too.
Oh, obviously don't reuse the stock manifold studs, they're too short on most header flanges and suck anyway. Make sure to use rust remover before you remove them, though, because they can break if you do it poorly. They NEED to be removed, though.
Tyler, I was talking about an engine cradle, not an engine hoist. It's the thing that sits on the fenderwell ledges on the inside of the engine bay and holds the engine from above. An engine hoist would be impractical since the legs would extend under the car, which is annoying (and hence not what I was saying). I, personally, don't like supporting it from below because it's both less stable and end up having something under the car that you have to avoid touching or that will get in your way, so it's the same problem as the hoist but to a lesser extent.
IMO, a cradle is the safest way to do it, especially since you'll probably be lifting the car pretty high anyway. This way, you can start the engine, warm it up, get the headers heat cycled while it hangs without the suspension on, and then just go back once it's totally cooled and re-torque the bolts. If you don't, they can come loose later and start leaks, forcing you do this allll over again. Then reassemble and you shouldn't have to worry about any leaks.
I'm not sure if you meant remove the rack ENTIRELY or just hang the rack out of the way, but I'm assuming the latter. In any case, remove the rack and hang it out of the way. Also, drop the K-member before removing the motor mounts, and only do those if you need to. I've never removed them to install headers, but it could in some cases make it easier. Leaving them attaching to the K-frame, though, will make it more difficult to realign everything later.
Also, don't use any gasket supplied by the header company (Bassani's header gaskets being the only exception). Use the stock Ford multi-layered steel gaskets. They're much, much better.
OH, and clean off the area around the k-frame mounting holes on the frame with some degreaser or whatever you want, let it dry, then mark the alignment of the k-frame by drawing it's outline on the frame with a sharpie. This will ensure that when you put it back on that it will stay in alignment. If the k-frame isn't put on in proper alignment, it'll make getting the car properly aligned very difficult (read: impossible).
Sorry, I should've just posted my version of a step-by-step guide...not that it was solicited, though.
Oh, obviously don't reuse the stock manifold studs, they're too short on most header flanges and suck anyway. Make sure to use rust remover before you remove them, though, because they can break if you do it poorly. They NEED to be removed, though.
Tyler, I was talking about an engine cradle, not an engine hoist. It's the thing that sits on the fenderwell ledges on the inside of the engine bay and holds the engine from above. An engine hoist would be impractical since the legs would extend under the car, which is annoying (and hence not what I was saying). I, personally, don't like supporting it from below because it's both less stable and end up having something under the car that you have to avoid touching or that will get in your way, so it's the same problem as the hoist but to a lesser extent.
IMO, a cradle is the safest way to do it, especially since you'll probably be lifting the car pretty high anyway. This way, you can start the engine, warm it up, get the headers heat cycled while it hangs without the suspension on, and then just go back once it's totally cooled and re-torque the bolts. If you don't, they can come loose later and start leaks, forcing you do this allll over again. Then reassemble and you shouldn't have to worry about any leaks.
I'm not sure if you meant remove the rack ENTIRELY or just hang the rack out of the way, but I'm assuming the latter. In any case, remove the rack and hang it out of the way. Also, drop the K-member before removing the motor mounts, and only do those if you need to. I've never removed them to install headers, but it could in some cases make it easier. Leaving them attaching to the K-frame, though, will make it more difficult to realign everything later.
Also, don't use any gasket supplied by the header company (Bassani's header gaskets being the only exception). Use the stock Ford multi-layered steel gaskets. They're much, much better.
OH, and clean off the area around the k-frame mounting holes on the frame with some degreaser or whatever you want, let it dry, then mark the alignment of the k-frame by drawing it's outline on the frame with a sharpie. This will ensure that when you put it back on that it will stay in alignment. If the k-frame isn't put on in proper alignment, it'll make getting the car properly aligned very difficult (read: impossible).
Sorry, I should've just posted my version of a step-by-step guide...not that it was solicited, though.
