why all the steggy hate as of late?

[65fastback2+2]

When you guys say stock pumps is it all stock back there including PPRV?

When I was on stock pumps I had a horrible hesitation if I didn't slam gears and shift like I was racing. Sucked for some light spirited driving. My tuner couldn't help me out even though I'd read on here a lot that it's all in the tune. So I decided to pull my PPRV valve and use one of those delete kits. That was a complete joke. While assembling that mess I could envision hoses popping off and all kinds of endless problems so I scrapped it and got a Fore hat and GT pumps. That cured my hesitation but is what also led me to different fuel systems and eventually return style... just a little info

i have my pprv still....but also got a tuner that knows how to tune around pprv issues

 

[beezer]

Had Steggy port my Eaton, plenum and TB last month, thought the customer service was pretty good. They called to provide status when complete and ask about replacement intercooler bolts. Port looked good, was clean, and came with new plenum gasket and shaft plug.
I am trying to maintain a pretty stock look, running a 2.8" upper, stock intake. Made 464 rwhp corrected, on Dynojet with safe Lund 93 tune. A little more fun.

 

[Tractionless1]

I've had my stg. 4 Stieg. since '08. Since then I haven't seen a difference in hp/tq for anything higher than their stg. 3/4 ports. I called them 6 weeks ago about purring M122 rotors in my case as the ad stated higher numbers, efficiency, etc. Of course they wanted my blower back to update as the rotors wouldn't reach their potential in my current port. If you ask me the power is in the port not the rotors. As stated in this thread gimmicky.

If TS owners are getting bored with their power level it seems they need to invest in getting the suspension sorted to hook. That will make all the difference in "feel" of the car's respective hp.

get a ts and be done with it...lol

Or keep my ported eaton throw a 120-125 shot on it for $500, run with TS, and crush them on torque.

My tuner/shop told me don't even waste my money on porting a eaton. They said it would be fun for a little bit, but then I'd want more power. Plus they get heatsoaked so fast. A tune is around 500 bucks, a port is what 600-800 dollars, plus injectors, maf, and different fuel pumps. All that money could damn near pay for the a return fuel setup needed for a bigger blower. Then save up money for the bigger blower. They told me do it right the first time, because everyone wants more hp! If the funds are not there, keep saving! It will be around 1 1/2 years before I'm there, but I'm sure it will be worth it!

Sounds like they want your money in house. Heatsoak is an issue with all blowers. There are many complaints here from TS owners saying their IAT2's are virtually unchanged. Many of them have KC's as a result. Most ported cars don't need injectors, none should need a MAF, most won't need pumps.

They sell a good product in their day but now it seems like they just try to pinch every cent out of your wallet. After leaving steggy you can easily have 1500 into a port after throttlebody, intake, supercharger, ect and be maybe 13hp more then a guy who paid 600. and no faster then each other compared.

+1 See above.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Or keep my ported eaton throw a 120-125 shot on it for $500, run with TS, and crush them on torque.

Been there done that. No comparison. The TS pulls much better and doesn't blow through bottles that need to be filled constantly. Also to do nitrous properly and safely it's going to cost you much more than $500. I even bought a lot of parts used and still spent around $1200 on my nitrous setup.

 

[unit213]

Stock pprv too. Everything stock except injectors and a BAP.

 

[badazzebz06]

kb 2.2 at 21psi + 100 shot FTW

 

[Bdubbs]

I've had my stg. 4 Stieg. since '08. Since then I haven't seen a difference in hp/tq for anything higher than their stg. 3/4 ports. I called them 6 weeks ago about purring M122 rotors in my case as the ad stated higher numbers, efficiency, etc. Of course they wanted my blower back to update as the rotors wouldn't reach their potential in my current port. If you ask me the power is in the port not the rotors. As stated in this thread gimmicky.

If TS owners are getting bored with their power level it seems they need to invest in getting the suspension sorted to hook. That will make all the difference in "feel" of the car's respective hp.



Or keep my ported eaton throw a 120-125 shot on it for $500, run with TS, and crush them on torque.



Sounds like they want your money in house. Heatsoak is an issue with all blowers. There are many complaints here from TS owners saying their IAT2's are virtually unchanged. Many of them have KC's as a result. Most ported cars don't need injectors, none should need a MAF, most won't need pumps.



+1 See above.

NO they don't want my money in house, lol. I buy all the parts myself and they do things more conservative, not on the edge just to make a certain number on the dyno. I've seen plenty of ported eatons that needed to upgrade there maf. I with upper only needed a bap, as my fpdc was maxed. I'll still go with a tvs, as one day I may run e85 if I can find it.

 

[brian97cobra]

So my dual focus pumps & modified FPDMs are going to support 600rwhp? :rollseyes

When you start going above 550rwhp...you better invest in a returnless fuel system...

And yea no thank you to a BAP. I don't need to be worry about an additional voltage draw with that...

I ran dual fpdm's with a fore hate and 60lbs injectors and made 635 rwhp and 595 rwtq on my 2.3L whipple with 21 psi of boost...


as for tuning they are all important weather its 450 rwhp and 950 rwhp.

 

[Tractionless1]

Been there done that. No comparison. The TS pulls much better and doesn't blow through bottles that need to be filled constantly. Also to do nitrous properly and safely it's going to cost you much more than $500. I even bought a lot of parts used and still spent around $1200 on my nitrous setup.

Interested to know what you "had" to do, considering plenty of owners have gone through numerous bottles on dry shots with only a WOT switch.

I've seen plenty of ported eatons that needed to upgrade there maf. I'll still go with a tvs, as one day I may run e85 if I can find it.

10-4 on the TVS, that's the only blower I'll over go with over the Eaton. As far as the MAF goes those owners could have went with a Mafia or extender for a fraction of the cost. I'm running the MAFia at 18.8psi, dripping to 16 psi with the 100-125 shot and still not needing a maf upgrade.

 

[Bdubbs]

Interested to know what you "had" to do, considering plenty of owners have gone through numerous bottles on dry shots with only a WOT switch.



10-4 on the TVS, that's the only blower I'll over go with over the Eaton. As far as the MAF goes those owners could have went with a Mafia or extender for a fraction of the cost. I'm running the MAFia at 18.8psi, dripping to 16 psi with the 100-125 shot and still not needing a maf upgrade.

True, how do you like the nitrous? I was thinking of that for a cheaper route while still running a un-ported eaton. But then there goes fuel mods again, lol.

 

[Tractionless1]

True, how do you like the nitrous? I was thinking of that for a cheaper route while still running a un-ported eaton. But then there goes fuel mods again, lol.

Haha still getting there, something is always keeping me from finishing the install. Decided on that route after seeing the simplicity, good results here, and owners who've been through multiple setups and said, "I wish i stuck with the Eaton/Spray setup, it was the best bang for the buck, best drivability, and most fun."

You may be surprised with how little you'd need to upgrade in the fuel dept. to run N20.

 

[Bdubbs]

Had Steggy port my Eaton, plenum and TB last month, thought the customer service was pretty good. They called to provide status when complete and ask about replacement intercooler bolts. Port looked good, was clean, and came with new plenum gasket and shaft plug.
I am trying to maintain a pretty stock look, running a 2.8" upper, stock intake. Made 464 rwhp corrected, on Dynojet with safe Lund 93 tune. A little more fun.

Haha still getting there, something is always keeping me from finishing the install. Decided on that route after seeing the simplicity, good results here, and owners who've been through multiple setups and said, "I wish i stuck with the Eaton/Spray setup, it was the best bang for the buck, best drivability, and most fun."

You may be surprised with how little you'd need to upgrade in the fuel dept. to run N20.

Yeah nos makes me nervous lol. Is 75-100 shot the most common?

 

[SVTRAT]

I enjoy my posi more than i did twinscrew....I dont need 600rwhp on the streets and traction issues. And bitches like my whine.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Interested to know what you "had" to do, considering plenty of owners have gone through numerous bottles on dry shots with only a WOT switch.

Only a wide open throttle switch is like playing russian roulette. You bounce off the rev limiter and you'll have some serious problems, spray in neutral by accident when revving the engine? I'm not sure spraying at low RPMs is very good either when going WOT.

Running a dry shot means you need a custom tune dialed in to give you the fuel you need. That also means your nitrous pressure better be spot on each time because your tune can't tell. Myself I ran a wet shot with a zex box like this.

It's installed in the passenger's fender well.

Purge solenoid was further up front near the intercooler pump

I installed a bottle heater that's connected to a regulator that you can adjust so it keeps the bottle at X pressure. I have mine set right at 1000 PSI. I found it critical to always spray at a consistent pressure or my A/F would be all over the place.

While an electric bottle opener is not required I'd never go without. Having to pull over, pop the trunk to get the bottle open is silly for me lol.

I then built this nitrous control box which has functions like open and close the bottle, purge, bottle heater, arming the system and so forth.

Don't mind the wire mess in this pic as it was durning installation. On top is the spray by gear box and window switch. I didn't pay anything extra for it, came bundled with a used package I purchased of nitrous parts.

Not pictured is the N2MB WOT box I use for Nitrous. I use their add on which also controls nitrous as it's also a window switch so you only spray in a defined RPM window, it prevents spraying in neutral as well and when you do WOT no lift shifts it momentarily cuts spray just like it does spark on the shift.

I really hated having to switch tunes to spray so I wired up my J&S Vampire to pull spark automatically when I sprayed and since its a wet shot fuel was taken care of too.

Once I had all that done it was a pretty sound system I did enjoy. The two things I hated was flicking on the nitrous system typically took about 15 minutes for the bottle pressure to come and second was you only get a few pulls and that bottle is empty.

Not all of that is required and I didn't count the J&S Vampire in my nitrous cost above. I would say at the very least run a window switch as well as a WOT. If you want to deal with switching tunes that's fine but it'll get old real fast.

BTW on my old Eaton setup the nozzle was in the intake plenum like this

And the fuel tap was on the rail like this

Under hood you didn't see any nitrous except that fuel line coming off the rail

On the 2.9 setup you can see the nitrous feeding in right next to the water/meth to the left of the IAC motor. I painted that purple nozzle piece black to better match the whipple.

 

[Emwun Garand]

Not reading 3 pages.


But seriously, "as of late"?

lol

 

[Tractionless1]

Only a wide open throttle switch is like playing russian roulette. You bounce off the rev limiter and you'll have some serious problems, spray in neutral by accident when revving the engine? I'm not sure spraying at low RPMs is very good either when going WOT.

Running a dry shot means you need a custom tune dialed in to give you the fuel you need. That also means your nitrous pressure better be spot on each time because your tune can't tell. Myself I ran a wet shot with a zex box like this.

Good info. and thanks for the detailed pics. I'm with you on the WOT; however, I shift well before the limiter (shift light) and have never hit it in 6yrs. of ownership, in gear or not. Tune will be dyno derived with a AF monitor to shut the N20 down upon a lean condition. I'm running Nano for pressure consistency, which is more solid than a heater.

Decided to go dry as from what I've read you can cause a lean condition on the passenger bank pulling at the rail. So, the best way to go wet is with a dedicated fuel system and I'm definitely not putting the $$, time, and effort into that.