My intercooler lines and pump upgrades

[SVT_Troy]

No not thinking about getting rid of the cobra!! :nono:

I'm trying to decide wether or not to keep my truck mounted intercooler reservoir. Currently she's on the street 90% of the time (so far about 5k a year tops.) I may hit the drag stripe 5 times a year if im lucky, not trying to set records, just want a strong running car overall. I am planning on trying out the road course alittle in the near future so I've been looking into lowering my IAT's.

With that said I've ben looking through countless threads over the past few weeks and I think my setup isn't that efficient. I'm currently seeing IAT 2 temps as high as 50* higher than ambient temps at freeway speeds. If I stop, temps will rise until I start going again and they go back done until it hits around 50* above ambient temps again. My temps usually sit around 140ish degrees with anywhere near 90* ambient. From my research some say that this is ok and some says its to hot. For me it's to hot, especially once I get to VIR.

What route should I take? Are my temps normal and I just need to work with it. I.E. just box in my radiator and H/E, replace current in tank pump with a stronger pump. If I do take the reservoir out what setup should I run? Stock H/E with a Killer chiller, Killer chiller with my current H/E, etc?

All my mods are in my sig

thanks for reading :beer:

 

[mach1033]

I vote killer chiller.

 

[Emwun Garand]

I vote killer chiller.

+1

KC is going in soon for me. Too many positive reviews to not have one.

 

[SVT_Troy]

My only issue with the killer chiller is that in my understanding if im on a road course and at WOT most of the time the Killer Chiller isn't doing anything at all.....

I'm also thinking about removing my current setup and doing a meizer pump which flows more than the oem pump and keep my current H/E then do a heat exchanger.... This is my favorite idea currently....

 

[gabe1530]

On the road coarse, you won't be wot all the time. It really depends on the layout of the track. I used my KC when I went to willow springs and it worked pretty good.

 

[raym5_0]

for the driving habits you describe, IMO get a KC + Jabsco 30gpm pump + stock H/E with bypass valve + CAI.....will get your IAT2's about as low as you can get.

I'm switching over to Industrial 12A refrigerant this week. I had leak from a loose fitting near the condensor and loss my R34 refrigerant. Supposedly the 12A gets colder than the R34......we shall see.

About the only time I see IAT2's over 100* is after a WOT run with throttle closed......it will be interesting to see how much of a decrease the 12A coolant decreases my cruising IAT2 temp & WOT IAT2 temps.

 

[SVT_Troy]

for the driving habits you describe, IMO get a KC + Jabsco 30gpm pump + stock H/E with bypass valve + CAI.....will get your IAT2's about as low as you can get.

I'm switching over to Industrial 12A refrigerant this week. I had leak from a loose fitting near the condensor and loss my R34 refrigerant. Supposedly the 12A gets colder than the R34......we shall see.

About the only time I see IAT2's over 100* is after a WOT run with throttle closed......it will be interesting to see how much of a decrease the 12A coolant decreases my cruising IAT2 temp & WOT IAT2 temps.

This actually sounds like a good setup, where are people buying the jabsco pumps from and do they fit right into the stock location?

Where are you getting R12 from? R12 does work better but also more harmeful for the enviornment which is why it was replaced with R134A years ago...... Not being the EPA police though......

 

[keith89]

for the driving habits you describe, IMO get a KC + Jabsco 30gpm pump + stock H/E with bypass valve + CAI.....will get your IAT2's about as low as you can get.

I'm switching over to Industrial 12A refrigerant this week. I had leak from a loose fitting near the condensor and loss my R34 refrigerant. Supposedly the 12A gets colder than the R34......we shall see.

About the only time I see IAT2's over 100* is after a WOT run with throttle closed......it will be interesting to see how much of a decrease the 12A coolant decreases my cruising IAT2 temp & WOT IAT2 temps.

+1 killer chiller and jabsco pump.
I have my jabsco in the trunk with the IC tank but the stock IC bracket up front can be modified for the jabsco. However, if you keep the trunk tank, I suggest you keep the jabsco close to the output of the tank as it is not self priming and needs to be close to the tank(preferably level or lower).

 

[raym5_0]

jabsco pumps are usually not to hard to find on ebay for around $150-160, the industrial 12a you can get from a link on Kincaids group buy post with free shipping if you mention him when ordering.

 

[SVT_Troy]

jabsco pumps are usually not to hard to find on ebay for around $150-160, the industrial 12a you can get from a link on Kincaids group buy post with free shipping if you mention him when ordering.

What are your temps looking like? See iv'e read that if you have a larger tank and or dual pass H/E it actually works against the K/C since thats more fluid to be cycled through allowing more time to pick up heat......

race Bronco has been doing ALOT of data logging and i would love for him to get a K/C to see how it performs with him.......

So far I am thinking about a bigger pump in the stock location and taking out the tank mounted tank and going with the race version K/C.....seems like it will yield the most benifits...... The tank in the rear just looks kinda cool :rollseyes

 

[keith89]

What are your temps looking like? See iv'e read that if you have a larger tank and or dual pass H/E it actually works against the K/C since thats more fluid to be cycled through allowing more time to pick up heat......

race Bronco has been doing ALOT of data logging and i would love for him to get a K/C to see how it performs with him.......

So far I am thinking about a bigger pump in the stock location and taking out the tank mounted tank and going with the race version K/C.....seems like it will yield the most benifits...... The tank in the rear just looks kinda cool :rollseyes

iMarine - "Your Marine Pump and Water Systems Specialists" — Circulation Pump (50840-0012)
This is where I got my pump. It was the cheapest non-ebay source i could find. I think it ended up being cheaper than ebay after shipping.

 

[SVT_Troy]

iMarine - "Your Marine Pump and Water Systems Specialists" — Circulation Pump (50840-0012)
This is where I got my pump. It was the cheapest non-ebay source i could find. I think it ended up being cheaper than ebay after shipping.

Thanks for the link :beer: Now I'll see if I can find a thread on installation for some tips.

 

[SVT_Troy]

yup found the link I was looking for. I'm going to go with the Jabsco pump and remove my trunk tank setup. Down the line i'll get a bigger I/C reservoir and a race version K/C. I currently have a switch mounted inside the cab that allows me to keep the pump and H/E fans to run with the car not running so I think I'm going to connect the Jabsco pump to the same relay I was using for the fans and old pump. Should be able to sell my tank mount setup to re-coupe some of the cash.......

 

[keith89]

yup found the link I was looking for. I'm going to go with the Jabsco pump and remove my trunk tank setup. Down the line i'll get a bigger I/C reservoir and a race version K/C. I currently have a switch mounted inside the cab that allows me to keep the pump and H/E fans to run with the car not running so I think I'm going to connect the Jabsco pump to the same relay I was using for the fans and old pump. Should be able to sell my tank mount setup to re-coupe some of the cash.......

what size is the tank in your trunk? if you have room for the jabsco pump in there, i would just say leave the tank in the trunk. Slightly better weight distribution and you'll save the money and time of switching over. Just a suggestion. I ended up having chiseled making me a custom 3 gallon tank for the trunk to replace my 6 gallon. the 6 gallon was excessive with the killer chiller. Now i have the jabsco pump in the spare tire well with the 3 gallon tank.

 

[SVT_Troy]

Is it bad to have your fans wired with the pump together on one relay?

I'm thinking about reinstalling the stock pump and running it in oem configuration until i get the Meizer pump to see the difference between the three.

 

[earico]

IMO with the trunk mount res the Jabsco pump is a must because of the length the fluid has to be pumped.

I'm getting 30 degrees over ambient with my setup. Some data posted in here and I hope to have more in a month. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/846555-universal-dual-pass-he-install.html

 

[SVT_Troy]

IMO with the trunk mount res the Jabsco pump is a must because of the length the fluid has to be pumped.

I'm getting 30 degrees over ambient with my setup. Some data posted in here and I hope to have more in a month. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/846555-universal-dual-pass-he-install.html

I currently have a attwood marine Tsunami T500 boat pump inside my trunk tank. The oem pump was removed and routed straight to the engine bay reservoir. Here are the specs on it under T500

 

[earico]

I currently have a attwood marine Tsunami T500 boat pump inside my trunk tank. The oem pump was removed and routed straight to the engine bay reservoir. Here are the specs on it under T500

Bilge pumps aren't designed to run constantly. It will fail much quicker than the Jabsco pump people are using: Jabsco Low Pressure Cyclon Centrifugal Pump - 12v IMHO I wouldn't run that pump.

A Bilge pump is designed to kick on once the float switch trips it. Then it pumps the water out of the hull of the boat and shuts back off once the float switch kicks off. If your boat has enough water in it continuously run the pump then you have a problem...LOL. I have had a boat the past 7 years. My bilge will come on once in awhile and only run for about a minute.

Also I am in the crowd that believes you can pump the IC fluid too fast. If you don't leave it in the HE long enough then the HE doesn't have the time to properly cool the fluid. Good info in here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/710965-anyone-ever-upgrade-ic-pump.html

 

[SVT_Troy]

Bilge pumps aren't designed to run constantly. It will fail much quicker than the Jabsco pump people are using: Jabsco Low Pressure Cyclon Centrifugal Pump - 12v IMHO I wouldn't run that pump.

A Bilge pump is designed to kick on once the float switch trips it. Then it pumps the water out of the hull of the boat and shuts back off once the float switch kicks off. If your boat has enough water in it continuously run the pump then you have a problem...LOL. I have had a boat the past 7 years. My bilge will come on once in awhile and only run for about a minute.

Also I am in the crowd that believes you can pump the IC fluid too fast. If you don't leave it in the HE long enough then the HE doesn't have the time to properly cool the fluid. Good info in here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/710965-anyone-ever-upgrade-ic-pump.html

Race bronco has to be one of the guys on here that has done more research than anyone else and if memory serves me correctly someone he trusts has told him thats not the case.

I'm up in the air between a Meizer and a Jabsco pump now. According to the specs the Jabsco pumps out 9.7 gpm more than the Meizer and its cheaper.... I'm thinking about getting rid of the trunk tank because I want a KC in the near future. Trunk mounted tanks dont do much to lower temps, it just increases the time for temps to rise due to more fluid. I'm not packing it with ice on the street and it works against a KC. I think the only positive thing its doing for my needs is putting more weight on the rear tires....

 

[SVTDice]

Yeah, You are correct. The faster the flow the more efficient the cooling will be. The way I see it is, Keep the tank in the trunk. It will prevent the engine bay tempatures effecting the colder fluid. If you look around at people that go with the KC. The ones that have larger IC tanks in the engine bay, Alot of them have wrapped it up in some form of insulation to keep the colder fluid in and the hotter engine bay temps out. Also if you decide to keep the tank in the trunk, and go with the KC you may want to insulate that as well. It may pool alot of water from condensation on the tank. But I'm not sure....Its only what I have heard from a few people.

Now onto the Jabsco pump. Its a nice pump and its what I plan on doing over the next few weeks. I may also plan on upgrading the lines to allow more colder fluid. (I think will help) Along with Amsoil Dominator coolant and things should be good.

Anyways, There are other things you can do to keep temps more cool. I have some ideas but I'm not exactly sure if they would work. Anyways I'm curious to see how this all turns out!