API SM/SN certified engine oils, and why NOT to use them.
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
- Start date
If none of the vehicles you claim above do NOT have remote bypass filter setups, then I call BS on your mileage claims, especially with Mobil 1.
Besides, you have failed to understand a comment I posted above. We are not talking about diesel oil here, only gas passenger car oils. Diesel oils are a completely different ballgame, and are not to be compared to their gas engine oil cousins. At least, not in this thread, at this time.
The only oil company that has ever paid me a DIME was BP, and that was to assist in the MC252 incident to clean up their worst mistake. BP manufacturers Castrol, and no thanks....will not use it. Of course, I was big on German Castrol 0W-30 about 5 years ago.
My logic is undeniable....
and if you would spend 5 years researching oil technologies as I have, you would share the same thoughts as I do.
Because 5W-40 and 10W-40 oils are EASY to find from every manufacturer. Ford cornered the market with 5W-50, well...for the most part.
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I've been researching Engine oil for 31 years. (I have a feeling that’s about how long you’ve alive) I've put approximately 1,860,000 miles combined on several vehicles during that time. 247k (sold in good shape) on a 90 Chevy 4.3, 380K (sold in good shape) on a 94 Chevy 6.5TD, (Currently own) 329k on my 01 F250, 148k on my 05 F250, 130k on my 06 F350. I’ve used Mobil 1 in all those vehicles and I’ve never had an engine failure or an oil related problem.
BTW: I don't give a damn if you believe me or not youngster, use what you chose to use I will use what has proven beyond any shred of a doubt the best oil made. I’ve own/ed many gassers too. Besides the 07 F150 and the GT500!
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The only vehicles that ever used an API SM/CJ-4 Mobil 1 formulation, are the very last two listed, and they are both under 150K miles. They are both diesels, and use DIESEL oils, not passenger car oils.
All of the gas burners you listed above all used API SL, or SJ formulations (and were group IV base stocks at that period of time. API SM are group III now). Those were the good ol' days that are since gone for Mobil 1. IMO, with your "boasted" 31 years of experience, I would have expected you to point that out on your own. You are comparing apples to oranges here, and completely missing the point.
MOBIL 1 ISN'T WHAT IT ONCE WAS, and in 2005/2006, the formulations of gasoline passenger car oils quality was reduced.
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I believe Ford and the rest of the OEMs had the new oil spec created so that they could warranty cats longer.
I'd rather buy a couple cats than an engine. I'm not sure if most enthusiasts know what kind of action an engine gets during a 20-30 minute open track session. It's WOT about 70 percent of the time depending on the track and braking zones.
In between doing track events for normal duty I do "Filter and Fills" using Royal Purple 10w40 street oil.
At the beginning of a season where I know I'll be on track quite a bit I do a full oil and filter change and switch to the race oil.(still 10w40)
Redline, Royal Purple, and the Amzoil good stuff(can't remember the name) all have the ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate) additive that race oils should have, but that the OEs have reduced in favor of lengthened cat life.
Before roller cams it was absolutely essential. It was often referred to as an anti scuff agent in the old days among non-oil engineer types, regular engine builder gear head types.
A generic explanation.
What is ZDDP and Why Should Anyone Care that it is Disappearing? - Associated Content from Yahoo! - associatedcontent.com
You guys can run what ever you want, but I have done enough research to satisfy myself and I am happy with my current usage.
However any one of those oils I listed above would be OK if I could not get the Royal Purple for some reason.
There may be more but if you see that SM/SN rating those are the ones with the UBER cat friendly compromise that I do not want to run.
EDIT: OH BTW Great thread OP!!
I'd rather buy a couple cats than an engine. I'm not sure if most enthusiasts know what kind of action an engine gets during a 20-30 minute open track session. It's WOT about 70 percent of the time depending on the track and braking zones.
In between doing track events for normal duty I do "Filter and Fills" using Royal Purple 10w40 street oil.
At the beginning of a season where I know I'll be on track quite a bit I do a full oil and filter change and switch to the race oil.(still 10w40)
Redline, Royal Purple, and the Amzoil good stuff(can't remember the name) all have the ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate) additive that race oils should have, but that the OEs have reduced in favor of lengthened cat life.
Before roller cams it was absolutely essential. It was often referred to as an anti scuff agent in the old days among non-oil engineer types, regular engine builder gear head types.
A generic explanation.
What is ZDDP and Why Should Anyone Care that it is Disappearing? - Associated Content from Yahoo! - associatedcontent.com
You guys can run what ever you want, but I have done enough research to satisfy myself and I am happy with my current usage.
However any one of those oils I listed above would be OK if I could not get the Royal Purple for some reason.
There may be more but if you see that SM/SN rating those are the ones with the UBER cat friendly compromise that I do not want to run.
EDIT: OH BTW Great thread OP!!
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If you want to get technical, I'm sure there were more than a few Terminator 4.6L engines that could have been saved, if they knew to stay away from mediocre 5W-20 lubes and used top tier 5W-30. Someone even posted in this thread about his experiences with his 03/04 Cobra.
I'm here to assist those who have no idea what's in a bottle of oil. How can you make an educated decision if you have no idea how it's made, or what was used in the production of a certain lube?
Yep, it's time to put the youngster on the ole ignore list!
I started not to type a letter; poor judgment got the better of me!
Most 03-04 Cobra Owners I knew ran 5W30, what would be the equivalant to that for the 07+ GT500? What I mean is that 5W20 was spec for the 03-04. However Most used 5W30 because it was better. What is the equivalent for the 5W50?
Hey beast I'm in orlando,florida and I've been reading about this I'm do for an oil change which one of the amsoil would you recommend then, 20w-50 or 10w-40 I've read that you've said both would be ok to use but would like the best of the two. Bye the way great informative material about the oils I guess from now on is amsoil for my car unless some thing happens!!!
Thanks
Thanks
I'm 35, not a youngster, and paid my dues. Why ignore me? Upset that I beat you at the game you boasted about having more time invested into?
I'm about to dump my current fill of 20W-50 and pour in some 10W-40.
AMSOIL 10W-40
You will want the AMSOIL EaO11 oil filter to complete the package.
AMSOIL EaO11
Run it up to one year or 10,000 miles....whichever occur first.
Do yourself a favor, never pay retail for it. Buy it at dealer cost.
Becoming a preferred customer
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See that is what I don't get...
on the Termi it was OK to use a oil weight that Ford Was not pushing
even on the S197 it is ok to run a oil different than what the "Ol owners manual but on the Gt500 people are screaming bloody murder
run what ever you want :shrug:
I would stick with what FORD recommends on any mod motor. I worked for Ford for 18 years and saw plenty of mod motors blow up from the wrong oil. Shit the local police department ruuined about 15 police car motors with the wrong oil. Mod motors have tighter tolarances then most and require thin oil. I have beat my motor harder than anyone....you all know that is a true statement too.....Over 200 dyno pulls and 200 passes...plus street driving. All making over 1000rwhp and still ticking....All on factory dealer purchased oil!!! Anyways thats my take on it....Change it often and don't sweat it!
Here's a good resource on lubes which touches on many variables for selecting oil viscosity including fuel efficiency, wear, and heat. IMO a 50 grade oil is needed for the GT500 motor due to how HOT it gets, the fact that it is supercharged (more heat) and the type of abuse that the car will encounter. I'm going to stick with the Red Line 5W50 ... just received my 2 gallons from Jegs today.
Motor Oils - Fuel Economy vs. Wear
Motor Oils - Fuel Economy vs. Wear
ok im confused, on the 03-04 cobras using 5w-20 was a good thing because they had some really tight clearences in the engine which is why when they got too hot they would burn pistions an scrape walls. i know for most cobra's that had built engines had looser clearences which then most builders told them to use a 5w-30 full syn oil
10W40 Summer 5W50 Winter is what I came up with?
UnleashedBeast, Can you post oil analysis reports comparing Amsoil with MC 5w50 on a GT500 motor with comparable mileage and mods?
Well, considering the FoMoCo and Mobil 5W-50 will shear to a very light 40 weight, and in some instances a heavy 30 weight, I can agree with this. Although, the 10W-40 will be good year round for climates that rarely ever see temperatures under 20*F.
I'm still expecting Red Line to shear to a heavy 40 weight oil in it's usable life, so again, the reason why I am choosing a more stable formulation from the start.
You will have a UOA of AMSOIL 20W-50 within a few weeks. I'm also sending it to both labs so no one can play the, "One lab has biased results" card. Then we can post my results side by side with previous 5W-50 UOAs already posted here.
The problem was inferior 5W-20 oil that was being used. API SM grade oils have low amounts of ZDDP. When the cheaper group III 5W-20 oils were so thin, there really wasn't anything there to cushion the high stress/pressure areas (ZDDP too low). This is why high amounts of ZDDP were added to high performance racing oils and top tier street synthetics. 5W-20 recommended use in Ford modulars was due to CAFE laws (mpg laws), and actually INCREASED wear in Ford engines.
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I just bought and changed to the RedLine 5W50. Reading the bottles that showed up, its labeled as meeting API SM.
Now I am really confused. Did not someone post a VOA for the RedLine showing it had the higher zinc levels of SL oils? Something does not add up.
I believe the oil analysis more than the label but what gives?
Now I am really confused. Did not someone post a VOA for the RedLine showing it had the higher zinc levels of SL oils? Something does not add up.
I believe the oil analysis more than the label but what gives?
I just bought and changed to the RedLine 5W50. Reading the bottles that showed up, its labeled as meeting API SM.
Now I am really confused. Did not someone post a VOA for the RedLine showing it had the higher zinc levels of SL oils? Something does not add up.
I believe the oil analysis more than the label but what gives?
Now I am really confused. Did not someone post a VOA for the RedLine showing it had the higher zinc levels of SL oils? Something does not add up.
I believe the oil analysis more than the label but what gives?
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