2011 gt500 1-2 shift problem

gr850

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Did the Amsoil swap. Slight to decent improvement in all gears EXCEPT the 1-2. Still grinds. Regardless of the grind the fluid swap is a good upgrade and recommend it. Noticed the slight improvement after about 50 miles. 1500 miles and still have the grind.

edit for added value.

As read back it appears I may have came across negative on the amsoil challenge, if so I apologize. The oil swap is an improvement worth the $$. I have no regrets but I also knew going in it probably wouldn't cure the grind.
 

SNAKBYT

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So how did you arrive at this solution?

Hello guys Ican tell you I have fixed mine it will cost you some money but mine shifts like a dream and will eat anything now on a 1too 2 shift;First I put in a dynatech drive shaft alloy,then royal purple syncromax. then the coop de Resistance the hot tomato a MGW SHIFTER AND WHOOOOO WEEEE DOES SHE SHIFT SLICK FINE ? WHAT ELSE CAN I SAY!!!!!!!:beer::lol::coolman:

I understand the Royal Purple, I understand the MGW Shifter...but how did putting a Dynatech Drive shaft help the 1-2 grinding inside the trans? Thrill me with your acumen if you please. While your'e at it did you do all at once or in some order to know if one change or all seems to fix the problem?
 

burnin4

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Geez.... it seems like some of the guys on here who said they were getting it "fixed" over a month ago have forgotten us....Can somebody, andbody i dont give a *** who tell us what ***in parts fixed ur cars.....please

I was the first one to post a picture of all the "upgraded parts" that were installed to fix my transmission grind....which didnt fix the problem. there is no fix, after the dealer installed $4000 worth of parts/labor my transmission still had the dreaded grind.

I sold the ***ker.
 

UnleashedBeast

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As read back it appears I may have came across negative on the amsoil challenge, if so I apologize. The oil swap is an improvement worth the $$. I have no regrets but I also knew going in it probably wouldn't cure the grind.

I have a local friend that had somewhat of a 1-2 grind in her 2012 Shelby on fast shifts. Amsoil cured that problem because we changed the fluid with only 500 miles on the car. If you catch it early, it makes even more of a difference.

I was the first one to post a picture of all the "upgraded parts" that were installed to fix my transmission grind....which didnt fix the problem. there is no fix, after the dealer installed $4000 worth of parts/labor my transmission still had the dreaded grind.

I sold the ***ker.

and now you have a transmission that is worse...the MT-82 Getrag...lol
 

Corepuncher

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Installed the AMSOIL fluid, along with a Redline oil change.;

Didn't fix grind, but it feels a tad bit smoother.

I will say that overall, I am grinding much less as I become more experienced with this car. I had almost forgotten about the grind when just the other night it happened. HOWEVER...this was on very slightly wet pavement (sprinkling...but looked dry). Which brings up this question, is our car more likely to grind if the wheels lose traction? I know the book says not to shift when tires spinning, could damage transmission. Is it possible some sort of mechanism kicks in to deny a shift to second if spinning? I know with my car, it is hard to tell sometimes that it is spinning, because it's so smooth.

So based on that theory, people running slicks at the track probably shouldn't have any grind issues. Anyone? It's worth a shot lol.
 

Spectre500

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I still cant believe thier hasnt been a TSB, Recall, or service advisory.
Ive got 5K on my 2010, and second gear hasnt locked me out (lately) but 5th will if I'm not perfect with the throw. Reverse can be tricky at times as well..
Blockers, Followers and Syncros. I guess our only hope is fluid change or wait till it breaks before warranty runs out. What a shame.
 

BOD89LX

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I got mine back from the dealer today and the problem is fixed. No more grind I also had a MGW shifter installed now its time to get to the track.
 

BOD89LX

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They ordered all the parts that I gave them from the list posted earlier, but the main problem was the syncro and blocker ring, on my car and the other car they did both times the blocker rings were the most likley cause.
 

MattR

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They ordered all the parts that I gave them from the list posted earlier, but the main problem was the syncro and blocker ring, on my car and the other car they did both times the blocker rings were the most likley cause.


Blocker on mine was in reverse of what the book showed.
 

Corepuncher

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BOD89LX, MattR and others,

Could you please give me the name of the person who fixed your car? I want to refer my local dealership to them to explain what is wrong. If blockers are in backwards, WHY IN GODS NAME has Ford not recognized this and offered to fix???

I had trouble reproducing the grind at the dealership, but now I'm getting slight grind going into R and from N to 2 with clutch down. Arrrgh!
 

heatsoaked12

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:mj:Spoke with svt today and they told me the one two grind was rarely heard of. It didn't seem like they wanted to help much and the same goes with two svt dealers in my area. I'm thinking of taking it to my friends tranny shop and having the parts listed on this forum installed. The one shop supervisor did take my car for a spin and said it shifted normally-total B.S.!!!! fairly disappointed at Fords service and this tranny. 2012 gt500 svtpp.:mj:
 

32V SVT

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Geez.... it seems like some of the guys on here who said they were getting it "fixed" over a month ago have forgotten us....Can somebody, andbody i dont give a *** who tell us what ***in parts fixed ur cars.....please

I took mine into the dealer and here's what they did:


  • 1st Visit
    - Completely bled out the hydraulic clutch system.
    - Flushed and replaced the trans fluid and added a friction modifier
    Result: No change in the grinding issue...

    2nd visit
    - Replaced the entire clutch and flywheel assy.
    - Replaced the Hydraulic slave cylinder assy.
    - Re-bled the entire system to ensure full extension of the slave cylinder.
    Result: I waited 250 miles to ensure I allowed the clutch enough time to break in... The grind was still there, however I had a knock sounding like drive shaft contact, or Carrier Bearing deflection, or something knocking on the underside of the car when accelerating hard over any kind of uneven road... This really derailed my attention to the whole grind problem as I felt like I was going backwards with my performance levels on the car...

    3rd visit (Heard a knocking sound when accelerating hard over bumps)
    - They re-torqued chassis and frame components and checked clearance.
    - Recommended an anti--wheel hop kit (Roush or FRPP).

All of these changes did improve the shifting, however I can't say it's completely gone... When we were trouble shooting my knocking noise I quick shifted a couple times with a driveline mechanic in the car and heard the dreaded grind. I was concentrating more on having him identify the suspension knock, and think that maybe I wasn't paying close attention to my shifting technique... I would have to say at this point it's hit and miss... If I don't pay really close attention to how high the RPM's are, and ensure my clutch pedal is firmly planted on the floor, the likely hood of a grind is almost guaranteed... Not what you want to hear if your a drag racer in a tight race where milliseconds matter. Since having the work done I've had some other upgrades done to my chassis and suspension (Subframe Connectors, and the Roush anti-wheel hop kit) which have sort of redirected my attention. I already expect the tranny to grind in 1st to 2nd, so when it doesn't do it, I'm amazed... I've been told that Rockland Standard Gear has a fix for the grind. Only problem is you have to give them a credit card and they'll send you a complete trans (on exchange) to the tune of some $3k and change. I plan to call and talk to them next to see if there's some specific parts that can be purchased for this fix. Maybe with some luck, I can get the dealer to agree to replace these items at some kind of a reduced charge since this is still a warranty related problem... I wish I had better news for you all... :(

On second thought, I'm going to produce the parts list from the earlier post on this thread, and ask them to replace these items while my warranty is still intact... I think that's going to be the best move here...
 
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Corepuncher

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Took my car into the dealer for a SECOND time. And wouldn't you know it, two times in a row, neither of us could get it to grind. I showed him how it grinds going quickly from N to R but he said that is normal you have to wait a second after depressing the pedal.

We got talking and I have suspected this "skipshift" feature. Now that I think about it, the last time I grinded into 2nd at high RPM, my natural inclination was to try 3rd. But I was DENIED! Well, that happens to match up with what skipshift does. Had to go to fourth.

So maybe I hit the "criteria" to engage skipshift, but then "Hit it", except skipshift does not come off and you are suddenly locked out of 2 and 3. Anyone else have trouble "finding a gear" when you get the high rpm 2nd gear grind? I'm would like to research this, and see if the skipshift "plunger" can be removed altogether, then see if that solves the problem.
 

32V SVT

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Took my car into the dealer for a SECOND time. And wouldn't you know it, two times in a row, neither of us could get it to grind. I showed him how it grinds going quickly from N to R but he said that is normal you have to wait a second after depressing the pedal.

We got talking and I have suspected this "skipshift" feature. Now that I think about it, the last time I grinded into 2nd at high RPM, my natural inclination was to try 3rd. But I was DENIED! Well, that happens to match up with what skipshift does. Had to go to fourth.

So maybe I hit the "criteria" to engage skipshift, but then "Hit it", except skipshift does not come off and you are suddenly locked out of 2 and 3. Anyone else have trouble "finding a gear" when you get the high rpm 2nd gear grind? I'm would like to research this, and see if the skipshift "plunger" can be removed altogether, then see if that solves the problem.
Skipshift??? I'm not familiar with that at all.... I'm pretty sure this trans (or at least my trans) will go from 1st to 3rd when intentionally shifting in this manner. There is a lockout that's supposed to prevent you from going into Reverse when your trying to hit 5th... That's the only blocked gear that I know of. Is this what your talking about?
 

SH3LBY

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My car has been fixed. It took 5 weeks because they had trouble getting the parts. I believe I listed the parts replaced before, but here they are again:
7230 shift fork 1-2
7240/7358 rail, 1-2
7A082/7B331 kit,snap ring
7K316/7M005/7L056 Gear, output shaft, driven 6th gear
7102/7103 Gear, output shaft, 2nd
7146 Gear, countershaft, 6th
7124 Sync asy complete, output shaft, 1st&2nd gear
7025 Bearing kit,input,countershaft &reverse idler gear
7107-A 2nd syncro rings
7107-A 1syncro rings
7L082-AA pads
7B096-A pins
7052-AA Seal
7B340 Nut
7052-A seal
7210-AE shifter
My car was having trouble 1-2 shift and reverse. The car now drives the way it should.
Our dealer has been aware that we had a problem since we bought the car. The allfordmustang forums has a Ford rep who reads the forums. I sent her my VIN number and my problem. I then called Ford customer service. Then my husband took the car to the dealer and the dealer took the tranny apart. The service manager and the Ford rep kept in touch and got my baby fixed.
 

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