2.9 Whipple Dyno Results

svt1111

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Well boys, finally had a chance to get her on the dyno. Wanted to make sure the A/F was good, and was curious about the HP with the preliminary Lund tune.

First, want to thank Scott at Massdiesel for all his install help, and use of his Dynojet.

The first hit, the car made 641/599. This run was shut down at 5,800 rpm, as the Wideband shot out of the exhaust and we didn't know it did, we just saw the A/F go LEAN so we shut it down. Made another hit right after that, within about a minute, 618/588. Heat soak was pulling timing like crazy.

Let her cool for about an hour, and made 647/615. We pulled her to 6,200 rpm. HP was still climbing, but not much, not worth hammering it higher. Probably would have only made a few HP more if we revved it higher anyway.

Very happy with the preliminary tune from Lund. A/F was nice and fat and safe, with the leanest being 11.50 across the board up top of the tach. Not sure what the total timing is but I'm anxious to get into it more.

Soon, we will be getting the car tuned for max power. Right now, I am running 4.10 gears which will lower the HP you see on the dyno a little bit.

Toward the end of next week, the car will be receiving a roll bar, then it will have to prove itself on the track, which is, and always has been the real measure of a car's performance with me. I think it should do well though.:coolman:
 

svt1111

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i dunno how you do the 4.10's. i'm going with 3.73's.

I liked them with the 2.6 pulley setup that I had on there previously.

I was going to ditch them in favor of 3.73's, but the dyno said the MPH was 143 at 6,200 rpm, so then provided the dyno MPH was accurate, I should be fine for the 1/4 mile??

I think the car would be a little faster with the torque multiplication of the 3.73's at this power level though.
 

1sweetazzGT500

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So you have NO cooling Mods at this Point? Get that thing Cool to maintain those Dyno numbers as I'm sure you know.
 

svt1111

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So you have NO cooling Mods at this Point? Get that thing Cool to maintain those Dyno numbers as I'm sure you know.

The car has the H/E that Evolution sells. Put this in when I did the 2.6 pulley. Its a real nice H/E, much better than stock.

Its possible that the fan we were using on the dyno wasn't adequate to push enough air through it though.

I forgot to put the H/E in my sig!
 

Hissssss

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Congrats on your new #s, I'm sure its a blast to drive with those 4.10s
 

Posi

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Nice numbers. Also the Larger H/E's only help with recovery time after a pull mostly. If you want to help the IAT's during a pull the cars need a larger IC Resevoir. Or a larger IC Resevoir with ice in it. If you want the most help at the track you can literally bypass the H/E because all it's doing is heating your IC fluid up by having to travel more. That's if you only run your car cool or if you are putting ice in it. No reason to need the H/E though for the track or even a dyno pull. The existing fluid should be cool for a dyno run or a run on the track. Sorry but just adding this in your thread OP.
 
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svt1111

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How much boost were you making Munson?

Don't know. Probably around 18 psi. Will get some datalogging in hopefully this week, so I'll know all the details then. And the final tune!

Congrats on your new #s, I'm sure its a blast to drive with those 4.10s

Thanks. It was fun to drive before with 506 rwhp and the 4.10's. The car is not drastically different in 1st or 2nd gear than before, 3rd is a little stronger, 4th is a LOT stronger. That's why I was think 3.73's would actually be better, at least 2nd gear would pull longer and harder ( with traction).

Nice numbers. Also the Larger H/E's only help with recovery time after a pull mostly. If you want to help the IAT's during a pull the cars need a larger IC Resevoir. Or a larger IC Resevoir with ice in it. If you want the most help at the track you can literally bypass the H/E because all it's doing is heating your IC fluid up by having to travel more. That's if you only run your car cool or if you are putting ice in it. No reason to need the H/E though for the track or even a dyno pull. The existing fluid should be cool for a dyno run or a run on the track. Sorry but just adding this in your thread OP.

Huh, interesting information. Makes sense I suppose. Never really considered it....

I am thinking the next round of mods will all be cooling related anyway. Want to pay off the remaining balance of the car first though if possible;-)
 

svt1111

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Here is a crappy cell phone pic I took recently of the car:

029.jpg
 

svt1111

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No headers.

We'll be turning it up next week hopefully. And Lund said its safe to take it to 6,500 rpm so that's good news.

Just want it to feel snappy.

The 4 Harley's in the picture were ridden by these dudes that were an exact carbon copy of each character from that movie Wild Hogs. I laugh everytime I think about it. The guys were drooling all over the car, one even made a pistol out of his fist, put it in my back, and told me to hand him the keys. Funny enough, he was the one who looked like and reminded me of John Travolta from Wild Hogs! My wife let me leave some rubber for them when we were done drinking our coffee's too. Man I love that woman!
 

harmon rabb

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how much boost is that making? i'm making 625rwhp/615rwtq with a tvs and the stock tb at 16lbs. i'd think a whipple ought to get you into the 700+ range...
 

stkjock

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great numbers! Enjoy and good luck at the track with that beast
 

Van@RevanRacing

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Nice numbers. Also the Larger H/E's only help with recovery time after a pull mostly. If you want to help the IAT's during a pull the cars need a larger IC Resevoir. Or a larger IC Resevoir with ice in it. If you want the most help at the track you can literally bypass the H/E because all it's doing is heating your IC fluid up by having to travel more. That's if you only run your car cool or if you are putting ice in it. No reason to need the H/E though for the track or even a dyno pull. The existing fluid should be cool for a dyno run or a run on the track. Sorry but just adding this in your thread OP.

I've tested the closed loop scenario and the only way it works is if the water running in between the intercooler and the heat exchanger is very cold (50 degrees or less). Now consider how is he supposed to route the plumbing to and from the pump which is mounted on the heat exchanger to close loop out the heat exchanger? It can be done but it is going to be a bit of a PITA. I have to disagree about the fluid travel theory. When you close loop the system and eliminate the heat exchanger you effectively eliminate all of the fluid in the heat exchanger from the intercooling system thereby decreasing your overall fluid volume in the system.

Let me put it into simpler terms. Which will boil faster, 1/2 a gallon of water or 1 gallon of water at the same heating temperature?

Reality is I have data logs on hundreds of passes and yes, icing the intercooler down does help but SFADCHI is a perfect testament to not having to ice an intercooler down when you use a dual puller fan heat exchanger such as the one I make.

SFADCHI does not ice his intercooler down ever and never experiences heat soak or IAT2's that exceed the tune parameter where spark advance is pulled. (140 degrees)

There are a lot of other guys using my heat exchanger for drag racing.

Evolution Performance
Lethal Performance
and many, many more end users.

Recovery time with a Revan Racing dual fan heat exchanger is much quicker than a non-fan unit.

I totally agree with the advantages of a larger intercooler reservoir. Not only does it help to slightly increase fluid volume flow but it adds much needed capacity to the system. Back to the principle of what boils faster half a gallon of water or a whole gallon of water.

Reality is that most of these cars are only on the drag strip or a closed course 5% of the time (???) give or take. Other than that they are on the street where the heat exchanger is critical to prevent heat soak and spark advance retard.
 

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