98 Cobra dedicated track build thread

[suicidekings]

Almost forgot.

I noticed some cracking on my previous rotors and got them replaced... These faired even worse.

After the second session I knew something didn't feel right on my first out lap each time. After it heated up it stopped shaking when I stepped on the brake.

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr


Had a little butt pucker moment on the track, got it a little too far sideways and had to just let go of the wheel.

 

[ZD302GT]

Dang, those didn't last long.

 

[suicidekings]

Dang, those didn't last long.

Nope, thats the problem with drilled rotors. They are prone to doing this. I will either go with slotted or just blanks.

 

[Murder Snake]

I have read that the new pad technology doesn't create the gas or heat buildup so that the drilled holes or slots are no longer necessary. don't know for sure but that is the indication.

 

[mysteed]

Drilled and slotted rotors are for appearances only for a lot of vehicles unless they come from the factory that way IMO.

 

[suicidekings]

I have read that the new pad technology doesn't create the gas or heat buildup so that the drilled holes or slots are no longer necessary. don't know for sure but that is the indication.

possibly. I am running hawk race pads and they are known to be abusive to rotors.

Drilled and slotted rotors are for appearances only for a lot of vehicles unless they come from the factory that way IMO.

In many cases yes they are pointless. I never experienced brake fade with them but I cannot comment if thats because of my pads or the rotors.

Either way in the future I will run blanks or slotted only. Whatever works best without brake fade.

 

[chao5.0]

I would suggest Centric premium blanks, cheap and I didn't have any issues with them on my 2013. Unless you want to spend some money and get a 2 piece from FTBR.

 

[suicidekings]

I would suggest Centric premium blanks, cheap and I didn't have any issues with them on my 2013. Unless you want to spend some money and get a 2 piece from FTBR.

I was just talking to a guy I pit with and he suggested centric premium blanks as well. I think im going this route. Im still budget concious especially with the items that wear this quick.

 

[mysteed]

Why not do a budget upgrade to the S197 setup?

 

[suicidekings]

Why not do a budget upgrade to the S197 setup?

Honestly, I changed so much at once with the suspension and chassis stiffening I am now having to chase down a lot of things that could be contributing to some issues I was having on the track. My main focus is going to be getting the suspension dialed in before I worry about the brakes. Honestly the brakes havent let me down yet so I am still happy with these. Im hopeful I will be able to carry enough speed that I wont need them much (kidding of course). But one focus at a time. I wont rule that out for the future though.

 

[geoffmt]

Nope, thats the problem with drilled rotors. They are prone to doing this. I will either go with slotted or just blanks.

Baer tells you to bed in the rotors, they do warranty their rotors, I warped and cracked a set or two myself. will be using slotted only for my next track day. Great setup, looks like a blast. Enjoy!

 

[MachME]

What brand rotors are these? Once you find that out see if they are G3000, G3500 or G4000 iron. MY guess is g3000. I have a suggestion for 3500 grade you can get blank, slotted, or drilled and slotted.

 

[9397SVTs]

Have you tried rotors that were cryo'd? I had some on a CRX that never cracked or warped, even after over heating the pads to the point that they were smoking.

They weren't expensive.

 

[suicidekings]

What brand rotors are these? Once you find that out see if they are G3000, G3500 or G4000 iron. MY guess is g3000. I have a suggestion for 3500 grade you can get blank, slotted, or drilled and slotted.

They are Baer. I believe they are grade G"Ill never buy them again". This is my second set btw after the first set cracked too.... not quite as bad though.

Have you tried rotors that were cryo'd? I had some on a CRX that never cracked or warped, even after over heating the pads to the point that they were smoking.

They weren't expensive.

I have not. Happen to know what brand? I would be willing to take suggestions.

 

[9397SVTs]

StopTech. You can get them from Summit Racing. They have them for the front and rear.

Also, there are a few companies that you can send your preferred rotors to for treatment.

 

[oooooh snap]

Are you properly seasoning the rotors and bedding the pads?

 

[suicidekings]

Are you properly seasoning the rotors and bedding the pads?

Yup. Both times. These Baer rotors are garbage.

 

[D2Fresh16]

Just read through this entire thread. Really nice job with the car so far! Granted I'm biased for White IRS swapped SN95s. Looking forward to see what else you do with this!

 

[suicidekings]

Well, I said I was going to leave the car alone but I have an issue... I can't stop.

I ended up getting forward offset derlin bushing MM A arms along with sway bar relocation kit and MM bumpsteer gauge.

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Notching out the factory k member for the MM a arms.

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Notched out K member

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Relocation bracket kit is nice, seems its more sturdy than the factory pieces that are on a long arm.

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr

Buttoned up at 1am.

Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr


I have a laundry list of adjustments to make from the guidance of MM. I have Chuckwalla coming up in a few weeks so hopefully it will be all buttoned up by then.

 

[98 svt]

I've really been enjoying this build. Keep it up man.